Hydraulic Pump

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txflur
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Hydraulic Pump

Postby txflur » Thu Aug 17, 2017 12:28 pm

Hello. I've got a cub and no hydraulics. Can you buy a replacement pump? Where do I start to trouble shoot?

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Shane N.
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Re: Hydraulic Pump

Postby Shane N. » Thu Aug 17, 2017 12:34 pm

Check your engine oil and see if it's above full. If it is then it's the seal in the pump and leaking into the engine. You can rebuild your pump pretty easily and cheap.
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Dale Finch
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Re: Hydraulic Pump

Postby Dale Finch » Thu Aug 17, 2017 12:39 pm

Just to clarify, you have all the hydraulic components, but they do not function?

If that is correct, have you checked the fluid level? If fluid level in the touch control block (just in front of instrument panel) is low, check your engine's oil level. If that is too high, the hydraulic pump shaft seal may be leaking hydraulic fluid into the engine oil pan = hyd pump seal (or o-ring) replacement and maybe a rebuild (which is easy). If eng oil level is OK, add HyTran (or equivalent) to the T.C. block. If hydraulics still don't function, probably will need to rebuild the Touch Control block (which is also not very difficult).

Others will give you some more info. Good luck!

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Glen
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Re: Hydraulic Pump

Postby Glen » Thu Aug 17, 2017 6:23 pm

Hi,
A hydraulic system has to have fluid to work, I would check the fluid and see if it is low.
The filler plug is at the upper left side of the unit.

Below is a page from the Cub owner's manual telling how to fill the Touch Control system, and remove the air from the system. Be sure to do what it says in paragraph 4 to remove the air from the system.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2064.jpg

They use Case IH Hy-Tran fluid in them nowadays. There are other brands, be sure it works with IH systems before buying it. It holds 3 1/2 pints of fluid. That's less than 2 quarts.

It could probably use a fluid change, if it hasn't been changed in years, if any will come out, if it is low on fluid. Or you could put some fluid in, and get it to work, run it 10 minutes, and then drain it, and change the fluid.

The arms have to be in the rear or down position when you fill it the last time. The fluid rises in the system as the arms go to the rear position. If you fill it with the arms ahead, it will have too much fluid in it.

Also when checking the fluid, have the arms to the rear, if you check it with the arms ahead, it will look low, even if it has the right amount of fluid in it. :)

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Re: Hydraulic Pump

Postby txflur » Fri Aug 18, 2017 12:06 pm

Thanks for all of the info.

Engine oil is a tad high.

Hydraulic fluid is good if I am opening the right fill hole.

The no touch handle moves freely, but no hydraulic movement.

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Glen
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Re: Hydraulic Pump

Postby Glen » Fri Aug 18, 2017 6:54 pm

Hi,
Below is a page from the Cub owner's manual showing where the Touch Control filler plug is.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-65.jpg

The guys on here have said that sometimes the drive gear on the pump has come off, and fallen into the engine oil pan, then the system won't work. The pump is driven by the engine timing gears. I don't know if yours has done that or not.
What year Cub is it, and has the Touch Control ever worked since you have owned it. :)

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Re: Hydraulic Pump

Postby bpommier » Mon Aug 21, 2017 10:09 am

I have a 1964 Cub Lowboy that has a leak in the Hydraulic pump and it is leaking into the engine oil reserve. Where is a good place to order a new pump or a rebuild kit? I do not want to run the engine until I get pump fixed because there is Hydraulic fluid in the engine oil.

Are there any tricks of the trade anyone knows before I start taking on this project?

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Glen
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Re: Hydraulic Pump

Postby Glen » Mon Aug 21, 2017 4:50 pm

Hi,
TM Tractor has a pump rebuild kit, it is the Case IH kit, it says.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/288fp.htm

Smooth the shaft where the o ring seal runs with some emory cloth, which is like sandpaper, but very fine, if the shaft is not smooth.

Remove the filler plug first from the Touch Control, that will relieve any pressure in the system, then you could remove the drain plug from the TC block and let it drain there. It shows where the plugs are in my posts above.
Then the tubes have to be removed, maybe you knew that already.

2 of the 4 pump bolts hold the pump onto the engine, the upper left bolt, and the lower right bolt, you can see looking at the new gasket that goes between the pump and the engine.

Notice how the lock washer at the pump drive gear is put on, and put it back on exactly like it was, it is a flat washer that you have to bend over one of the flats of the nut.
Carefully bend it some so you can turn the nut to remove the nut, then when you are done, tighten the nut, and bend the washer to lock the nut on.
The nut can come off without the lock washer. TM Tractor has a new one if needed.

There is a post on here that shows how to rebuild a pump, one of the experts might post it. :)


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