R.O.C.K Restoration Project

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Glen
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Glen » Tue Aug 29, 2017 1:15 am

Hi,
When you put the hood on the Cub, if the side of the hood hits the plug with the 2 wires on the alternator, the rear half of the case can be changed to any of 4 positions, so the plug can be facing up, down, right of left.
I would probably turn it so it faces up, but it's your choice.
To change it, remove the 4 bolts that hold the rear half of the case on, and turn the rear half. The thin steel piece between the 2 halves has to turn with the rear half, you might need to use a small screwdriver and pry a little and loosen it from the front half.
Do not separate the 2 halves any, just turn the rear half. If you separate them much, the brushes will come out of position. :)

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rockfarmer
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Tue Aug 29, 2017 8:11 am

Glen,

I always enjoy reading your replies, full of helpful information, however, I think this one was misplaced :D

Jim,

The large gear on the lower shaft is the one I am referring to as being backwards. Is that the one you are referring to as well?
Last edited by rockfarmer on Wed Aug 30, 2017 2:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Bob McCarty
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Bob McCarty » Tue Aug 29, 2017 9:13 am

To clarify, I was looking at the second gear from the right on the top shaft. If you're looking at the bottom shaft, then I'm not sure. It's hard for me to tell which is the straight and which is the rounded side.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein

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rockfarmer
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Tue Aug 29, 2017 12:49 pm

The bottom large gear's rounded edge....easier to type than say, is facing forward just like the 2nd largest one next to it. Based on the TM layout you provided earlier, #7 is on backwards. I do see that the top gears are worn pretty badly. I should replace the entire lot.

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rockfarmer
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Tue Aug 29, 2017 2:43 pm

Speaking of replacing, I found this hiding behind some red paint last night.

Cracked block.jpg


Is this a result of old man winter too?

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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Jim Becker » Tue Aug 29, 2017 3:27 pm

Freeze crack.

staninlowerAL
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby staninlowerAL » Tue Aug 29, 2017 4:04 pm

Agree with Jim. I've got one just like it, maybe a little further forward. I've not found a "fix" so far. Any ideas?

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rockfarmer
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Tue Aug 29, 2017 8:37 pm

Guess I'll start looking for a new block.

Do you think the head will be OK?

I will begin tearing it apart tomorrow and will post my findings.

staninlowerAL
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby staninlowerAL » Tue Aug 29, 2017 8:48 pm

rockfarmer wrote:Do you think the head will be OK?
The only way I know to check for sure is to have it magnifluxed. You could also get an opinion on repairing the block from a good machine shop. I've read that welding a freeze damaged cracked block has been done in non stressed areas on some other tractor engines like SA and A. Never had any experience with this type repair.

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Shane N.
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Shane N. » Wed Aug 30, 2017 6:38 am

rockfarmer wrote:Do you think the head will be OK?

Look at the casting dates on the head and the block, if they are way different then the head may have been replaced when the freeze happened. With the block and the front bolster both being repaired I wouldn't think those were the only 2 places it froze and busted but I could be wrong.
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Jim Becker » Wed Aug 30, 2017 10:38 am

staninlowerAL wrote:. . . I've not found a "fix" so far. Any ideas?

This is one situation where Chipmaker's comment from earlier might apply:

Chipmaker wrote:. . . Fix what leaks and needs fixing, don't worry about what don't need fixing . . .

If the engine is running fine, decent compression and not burning a bunch of oil, it might be best left alone. I wouldn't do major mechanical work on a defective block but there really is no point in discarding a functional engine if the problem is no more than cosmetic.

People don't generally expect a perfect stock restoration on a tractor (or anything else) that is donated to charity to be auctioned or raffled. If you spend more on the restoration than the auction/raffle yields, the charity would have been better served by giving them the money!

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rockfarmer
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Wed Aug 30, 2017 11:01 am

Very well put!

Waif
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Waif » Wed Aug 30, 2017 11:23 am

Fix it too nice....you won't want to part with it.
Get it clean and running good.
No warranty expressed or implied.
A good running decent Cub around my area runs around $1800- 2500. Your areas average value is going to be a factor in what it is worth.....

Restored see higher prices than easy to sell.

staninlowerAL
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby staninlowerAL » Wed Aug 30, 2017 12:05 pm

rockfarmer wrote:Guess I'll start looking for a new block.
One other possibility that you could discuss with the machine shop is to drill and pin the crack. This involves drilling and driving brass pins into the holes so that the pins overlap. Since the engine runs at atmospheric pressure this process works well if it can be done. Some breaks do not lend itself to this type repair.

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rockfarmer
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Wed Aug 30, 2017 2:46 pm

Using a hand crank, with the exhaust manifold removed, I got the following compression numbers:

Cylinder 1 2 3 4
Dry - 55 45 65 45
Wet- 90 50 95 65

Test method
1. Remove spark plug.
2. Connect compression tube with tight fit.
3. Hand crank as fast as possible for 5-6 revolutions.
4. Record number as dry value.
5. Relieve pressure.
6. Repeat 1-5 with one tablespoon of 10W-30 and record as wet value(s).


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