R.O.C.K Restoration Project

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Shane Nelson
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Shane Nelson » Fri Feb 16, 2018 8:18 am

Here's the tab Tim is speaking of. You can cut a piece of metal and drill all the holes in it and bolt it on like it normally would be, it doesn't have to be welded since the bolts will hold it and the toolbox covers it up.
IMG_8250.JPG
All you can see is the tab on the toolbox when installed.
IMG_9554.JPG
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Fri Feb 16, 2018 10:49 am

My shipping address is... :D

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Shane Nelson
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Shane Nelson » Fri Feb 16, 2018 4:52 pm

I’ll make you one first of the week and send it to you. PM me your address.
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Dale Finch » Fri Feb 16, 2018 10:30 pm

Check to see if that hole in front of the 2 seat post bolts is threaded. Isn't that where the tool box ataches with a short bolt?

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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Sat Feb 17, 2018 8:59 am

tst wrote:on the seat post mount it is suppose to have a little tab that you are missing to bolt the tool box on


Do you suppose it was removed by a PO (common thing - as there was no toolbox on Rocky when we got him), or did I misplace it with the fan shroud and tie rods?

I'll admit that I did a poor job documenting the disassembly. :oops: another learning opportunity for me!

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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby tst » Sat Feb 17, 2018 11:36 am

they rot and break off

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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Sun Feb 18, 2018 9:29 am

After installing and removing the transmission shifter cover, don't ask, I realized the gasket sealer, Permatex Right Stuff, recommended by a friend has really good adhesion to gasket material and steel.
Right stuff gasket sealer.jpg


After a 48 hour cure time, when I removed the cover, the gasket split in half, meaning the gasket failed before the sealer did. I will reuse it sparingly when I re-install. Because it worked so well, I decided to use it on the radiator too.

Radiator Clean.jpg

Radiator right stuff application.jpg

Same application on top of the cork gasket,
Radiator install.jpg

Attached the radiator, just like many of you have, using the TM stainless steel bolt kit that Dale referred to earlier,

Radiator install Left side.jpg


and, just like some of you have, installed it without the fan shroud in place. :?

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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Glen » Sun Feb 18, 2018 6:30 pm

Hi,
The pics look good.

You have to assemble all the shift lever parts into the cover, before putting the shifter cover on, if you didn't put them in. It looked like there is no lever in the cover in the pic.

Be sure the 2 oil holes are open and clean at the ends of the oil trough, for the 2 clutch shaft bearings. The bearings get oil from it running in the holes.

Be sure both shifting forks are in neutral before putting the shifter on.
Both forks move to 3 positions forward to back, they have to be in the 2nd, or center positions.

I guess you will need to remove the fan assembly to put on the shroud, since you have put the radiator on. You will need to put the fan into the shroud, and install them both together from the right side, I think. The 2 wire clips are at the top of the shroud, if they are still there.

You have no radiator overflow tube on the radiator, if it an original style radiator, the metal tube was soldered onto the radiator. Without any overflow tube, the antifreeze will run out the hole on the side of the filler neck, and down below, removing the paint probably. Some will probably splash out onto the hood too, and stain the paint on the hood if left on it.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor showing the tube a 1949 Cub would have had.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/co/144fp.htm

There was also a holder for the tube at the bottom end of it, that went on one radiator bolt, it is shown in the tube listing pics.

Here is a listing for it.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/co/129fp.htm

The newer radiators were made for a overflow tube down the left side of the radiator. I don't know which you have without a pic of the outside rear of the filler neck, where the tube attaches.
Last edited by Glen on Sun Feb 18, 2018 8:38 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Bill Hudson » Sun Feb 18, 2018 6:45 pm

rockfarmer wrote:After installing and removing the transmission shifter cover, don't ask, I realized the gasket sealer, Permatex Right Stuff, recommended by a friend has really good adhesion to gasket material and steel.


No need for the gasket. A friend of mine, who is neck deep in old Fordsons and a working mechanic, put me on to the 'Stuff.' Many uses for it without the gasket. So far I used it on the shifter cover and final drive pans (on a Lo-Boy), no runs, no drips, no errors.

Bill
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rockfarmer
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Mon Feb 19, 2018 7:56 am

Glen wrote:Hi,

Be sure both shifting forks are in neutral before putting the shifter on.
Both forks move to 3 positions forward to back, they have to be in the 2nd, or center positions.

...the shifter was not in either of the neutral slots when I torqued down the cover. When removing I noticed there was a defect in the coating so it went back to the coater.

Glen wrote:You have no radiator overflow tube on the radiator, if it an original style radiator, the metal tube was soldered onto the radiator.



Radiator overflow.jpg


There was a rubber hose attached to what appears to be the original tube? Should I remove and solder in a new one? I have a replacement tube with the bottom clip.
Overflow Pipe.jpg

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rockfarmer
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Mon Feb 19, 2018 8:00 am

Bill Hudson wrote:
rockfarmer wrote:After installing and removing the transmission shifter cover, don't ask, I realized the gasket sealer, Permatex Right Stuff, recommended by a friend has really good adhesion to gasket material and steel.


No need for the gasket. A friend of mine, who is neck deep in old Fordsons and a working mechanic, put me on to the 'Stuff.' Many uses for it without the gasket. So far I used it on the shifter cover and final drive pans (on a Lo-Boy), no runs, no drips, no errors.

Bill


that's good to hear Bill! Thank you for letting me know, as I was not 100% sure whether to use it.

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rockfarmer
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Mon Feb 19, 2018 12:23 pm

Removed the old broken piece of overflow pipe from the radiator and cleaned the surface.

Inserted the new overflow pipe and loosely attached the clip at the bottom
Radiator overflow install.jpg

"soldered" it on both sides,
Radiator overflow inside.jpg

Radiator overflow soldered.jpg


Tightened the clip on the bottom.

Radiator overflow installed Rt side.jpg


Now, time to "borrow" a shroud from one of his brothers.

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Shane Nelson
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Shane Nelson » Mon Feb 19, 2018 12:29 pm

Tim, there's a fan shroud for sale in The Vine for $15, not sure what kind of shape it's in but it may be worth checking out.
viewtopic.php?f=223&t=99680
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Jim in SC » Mon Feb 19, 2018 1:33 pm

rockfarmer wrote:After installing and removing the transmission shifter cover, don't ask, I realized the gasket sealer, Permatex Right Stuff, recommended by a friend has really good adhesion to gasket material and steel.
Right stuff gasket sealer.jpg

After a 48 hour cure time, when I removed the cover, the gasket split in half, meaning the gasket failed before the sealer did. I will reuse it sparingly when I re-install. Because it worked so well, I decided to use it on the radiator too.

Radiator Clean.jpg
Radiator right stuff application.jpg
Same application on top of the cork gasket,
Radiator install.jpg
Attached the radiator, just like many of you have, using the TM stainless steel bolt kit that Dale referred to earlier,

Radiator install Left side.jpg

and, just like some of you have, installed it without the fan shroud in place. :?


LOL - yeah, that sounds VERY familiar! I can add my name to the list that installed the radiator, but forgot the shroud! :) My restoration was NOTHING like yours, though. Wow. Impressive.
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Glen
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Glen » Mon Feb 19, 2018 7:10 pm

Hi,
I think that was the newer style radiator overflow, it uses a rubber hose that goes down the left side of the radiator. There is a holder for the tube there, on the left side, it looks like.
You could have used it that way, unless you want it totally original, with the metal tube.

The fitting was not broken, it is made to hold a rubber hose, it looked like in your pic.

I guess you have soldered the tube in, the guys have said before to be careful soldering in the tube, too much heat will melt the solder that holds the filler neck to the top radiator tank.

You have the clip at the bottom of the tube on the wrong bolt, look at the pics again, it goes one bolt to the left in the pics.

I would put on a shorter generator belt, it is adjusted out to almost as far as it goes, and it has not been used yet. There will be no way to tighten it in the future, someone will have to replace the belt again.
If that is the right adjustment bracket, and it is a Case IH belt, it is either the wrong part number, or the belt was made the wrong length.

Below are pics at TM Tractor of the top generator brace.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gel ... e1_001.htm

The gear shifter base, or cover, has to be assembled with the lever in it, before putting it on the transmission.


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