woods 42C-6 clutch issue

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inairam
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Tractors Owned: 1948 with international 1000 loader
1949 with kub klipper belly mower.
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Location: Glen Mills PA

woods 42C-6 clutch issue

Postby inairam » Sat Aug 26, 2017 5:11 pm

I picked up a woods 42C this summer. I just got around mounting it a few weeks ago and found out why it was not mounted - The clutch would not engage and made a metal on metal grinding noise.

I ordered the seals, bushings and the both the upper and lowers ratchet clutch parts, a new spring and a few other parts from http://www.messicks.com. They had them in stock and I got them in a few days.

I rebuilt the clutch per the instructions attached. It worked well but when I got into some high grass it slipped and made the grinding noise. I played with the washers and redid the assembly and it worked for a while and they started slipping again and the new ratchet parts ( the most expensive btw) are shot and it will not turn the blades.

What could I have done wrong?
Attachments
42c-6.png
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!

muleboss
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Re: woods 42C-6 clutch issue

Postby muleboss » Sat Aug 26, 2017 10:12 pm

I do not know what or if you did anything wrong. I just received an order of most of the same thing from German-Bliss. Put it together and it works as of now.

bofahs
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Re: woods 42C-6 clutch issue

Postby bofahs » Sun Aug 27, 2017 12:34 am

tl;dr: I think you may need a longer spacer below the Drive Hex. Sorry for the book!

If the belt won't transmit the rotational force through the ratchet clutch to the blade, something is out of adjustment. Remember, the more common problem is that the ratchet won't "ratchet" at all, and acts like a solid drive.
It sounds to me like your Drive Hex is not engaging into the lower element of the ratchet - the one with the hex hole in it. (Or the keys that secure it to the spindle are missing or broken, but I doubt that.)
This is my experience - when one is putting the whole assembly together on the Spindle, it's easy to overlook the importance of the spacer just below the Drive Hex. You may need to make a new one, or otherwise adjust the length.
Oh, and it's a real pain to try to do this on the mower - take the mower off the tractor; take the blades off and remove the spindle and housing so you can work on a bench. Once you get everything correct, you can take the pulley back off and reassemble into the deck.

You'll have to place the spindle upright on a sturdy surface when assembling.
As you assemble the Drive Hex onto the shaft, make sure that both keys are an excellent fit into the slots of both the Drive and the Spindle. Slip fit or tap-in; no slop, no jam.
Once you've gotten the Drive Hex tapped into place on the spindle, the top of the spindle should be just below (approx. 1/16) the upper edge of the tubular part of the Drive Hex. You make this test fitment with a brass or wooden mallet, or a block of hardwood tapping everything down onto the spindle. This seems to be the only way to pre-load the bearings, and it ain't much.

HERE'S THE THING - I suspect that you'll be able to tap everything into place so far that the spindle protrudes through the top of the Hex Drive. This would be BAD. Measure how far down you can tap the Hex Drive below the top of the spindle, and add that much spacer plus 1/16" just below the Hex Drive.

The very next two pieces you'll assemble (7 & 8 on the Woods drawing) are the Compression Spring and the Ratchet with Hex Hole. Remember, the Ratchet with hex hole is to ALWAYS be engaged with the Drive Hex.

Once you have everything assembled on the bench, secure the blade holder in a vise, or otherwise immobilize it. It should be impossible to rotate the pulley in the "drive" direction, and possible to pull in the ratchet direction.

Hope this makes sense. This was my experience rebuilding the spindle and bearings, and we're mowing with it, so. . .

inairam
501 Club
501 Club
Posts: 564
Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:24 am
Zip Code: 19342
Tractors Owned: 1948 with international 1000 loader
1949 with kub klipper belly mower.
1957 with c-2 mower & c-54 grader blade
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower
1975 with homemade mower
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Glen Mills PA

Re: woods 42C-6 clutch issue

Postby inairam » Sun Aug 27, 2017 7:44 am

Bofahs

Thank you

The wear is between the ratchets not between the drive hex and the lower ratchet. It just catching but not enough to engage so there is a slip and metal is worn.

The keys were tight before and were replaced with the other parts no slop there

" importance of the spacer just below the Drive Hex." in the sketch, there is no spacer just below the lower ratch and the spring. The spring goes to the ratchet drive. I did replace item 10 the shim/washer below the hex drive and the spring.

"spindle should be just below (approx. 1/16) the upper edge of the tubular part of the Drive Hex" mind is below but it may be more than a 1/16. Will check
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!

inairam
501 Club
501 Club
Posts: 564
Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:24 am
Zip Code: 19342
Tractors Owned: 1948 with international 1000 loader
1949 with kub klipper belly mower.
1957 with c-2 mower & c-54 grader blade
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower
1975 with homemade mower
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Glen Mills PA

Re: woods 42C-6 clutch issue

Postby inairam » Sun Aug 27, 2017 7:59 am

When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!

bofahs
Cub Star
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Posts: 69
Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2016 6:03 pm
Zip Code: 31522
Tractors Owned: 1965 IH Cub Lo-Boy

Re: woods 42C-6 clutch issue

Postby bofahs » Sun Aug 27, 2017 10:41 am

inairam wrote:Bofahs


" importance of the spacer just below the Drive Hex." in the sketch, there is no spacer just below the lower ratchet and the spring. The spring goes to the ratchet drive. I did replace item 10 the shim/washer below the hex drive and the spring.


The spacer I'm referencing is Part No. 2 on the Spindle drawing - they call it a "Sleeve".

inairam
501 Club
501 Club
Posts: 564
Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:24 am
Zip Code: 19342
Tractors Owned: 1948 with international 1000 loader
1949 with kub klipper belly mower.
1957 with c-2 mower & c-54 grader blade
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower
1975 with homemade mower
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Glen Mills PA

Re: woods 42C-6 clutch issue

Postby inairam » Sun Aug 27, 2017 4:57 pm

At the end of the day today I got back to the 42c-6

My drive hex is 0.22-24 (calipers) above the spindle shaft. I could not get it any lower

When I opened it up the new spring was above Ratchet with hex hole. I spent some time reshaping the top of the spring so 300-330 degrees of the top was inside the flange of the ratchet and it snapped onto the od behind the flange. I then put in the old parts and was able to cut grass for about 15 minutes and the clutch ratched at slow down

If this does not work with some serious cutting I will have look at the spindle assembly and check the stack to see if I can get closer to 1/16"
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!

bofahs
Cub Star
Cub Star
Posts: 69
Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2016 6:03 pm
Zip Code: 31522
Tractors Owned: 1965 IH Cub Lo-Boy

Re: woods 42C-6 clutch issue

Postby bofahs » Sun Aug 27, 2017 6:20 pm

No, you're good. 1/16 works for me, but at .22 you've got plenty of bolt engagement to hold the assembly in place, and certainly engaged in the Hex. I think you've got it!


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