Starter headache - so near and yet so far...

[Randy Tuura]

Okay I got some pictures. Hope I downsized them enough to upload...
A new starter switch works a couple of times and then quits.

Then I got to thinking about that little piece of copper on top of the starter. I believe the old one was a triangle shape, but the one on the new one is flat and a very shallow wedge shape. This is what I tried to show in the pictures.

It seems to be just tall enough for the other part to touch but just barely. It has started a couple of times just fine. But is there something I can do short of getting another starter with the correct contact?

I mean this is a repair that should be easy - assemble the parts - starter and switch - pull the starter rod and go, right? I found out by experience those inexpensive switches really don't go back together very well if you can get them apart.

Anyway, here's the pictures.

[Stevetractor]

I've had that lug get worn down to the point that switch contact won't touch it well enough to drive starter. If I remember right the original contact on the starter is lead. I filed it down so the top was flat, then had a friend soldier a nice thick piece of copper to the lug. We had to do it twice because the first piece was too thin. Once we got a thicker piece it's worked fine for at least four years now. A little Prussian blue on the switch contact will tell you where and how much contact your making.

[Randy Tuura]

A little Prussian blue on the switch contact will tell you where and how much contact your making.

Thanks for the quick response!
As for the Prussian Blue, that may not be necessary. You can see where the other contact touched just enough to start it. I'm thinking maybe 1/16" more might just do it.

Now if i could just find a good hot soldering iron downstairs someplace... I little afraid of a propane torch. Don't want to melt something important.

Do you know if that stud comes out? It doesn't seem like it screws out. I've turned it some and it doesn't appear to move as if it had been threaded.

[raystractors]

soldered connection inside.

[staninlowerAL]

soldered connection inside.

Yep, soldered inside the housing. You can take yours to a starter/generator repair shop and have a new stud installed, your new starter should then last another 50 years. I just had one repaired but instead of the stud contact, I had it replaced with a brass bolt/nut in preparation for a conversion to a solenoid type switch.

[Randy Tuura]

Thanks again. This time to raystractors. Couldn't find what I was looking for until I used your phrase "starter/generator repair shop". Found two of them that are on my way home from work. The starter is in the trunk and I'll be stopping in on Monday.

Maybe I'll get this ankle deep grass mowed one more time before the snow falls and the fun with the plow begins.

[Randy Tuura]

soldered connection inside.

I just had one repaired but instead of the stud contact, I had it replaced with a brass bolt/nut in preparation for a conversion to a solenoid type switch.

I'm fascinated by this idea but I just need it to work right away. Maybe I'll have some time to think about it between snow storms. It would be so nice to just turn a key. But wait, when the old style is working that's just as good.

You know, if I just had a spare tractor I could do more tinkering. One with the plow mounted and the other with the mower mounted. No, wait. I'd have to have a third one for tinkering:!: And a tractor shed big enough for three runners and parts tractor This could get out of control real easy...

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing the 6 volt starter.
The stud is number 5 in the pic. It looks like the Delco part number for it is 1910299.
You might need the part number, there is no model number plate on the starter that I can see in the pic. A 1949 Cub probably would have had a model number 1109603 starter. All of them that age that I have seen, had that number.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 008-10.jpg

The cover band on the end originally goes with the end at the bottom, when the starter is installed on the engine. Then rain won't run into the starter, getting in at the end of the band. You would need to remove it and turn it around 1/2 turn, so the screw head is facing away from the engine, and you can turn it when the starter is on the engine.

[staninlowerAL]

soldered connection inside.

I just had one repaired but instead of the stud contact, I had it replaced with a brass bolt/nut in preparation for a conversion to a solenoid type switch.

I'm fascinated by this idea but I just need it to work right away. Maybe I'll have some time to think about it between snow storms. It would be so nice to just turn a key. But wait, when the old style is working that's just as good......

Randy, it's not a difficult change. Getting the starter lug replaced with a bolt is the biggest project. IH used a solenoid bolted under the floor pan on the later model Cubs, battery cable to the solenoid input and output to the starter, fused 10 ga. hot wire to the keyed ignition switch input post and then S post back to the solenoid is all it takes. Coil wire goes to the run terminal on the key switch. Wiring diagram for late model cub is on the forum. As far as "turning the key...." think about the millions of vehicles that use this application every day....... I've had a lot more problems with the switch mounted on the starter than with a solenoid type switch. Of course the correct police will have bad things to say about that. My 2 cents!

[Randy Tuura]

Hi,
Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing the 6 volt starter...

Thanks for the link. I printed out the page and will bring it to the starter/generator repair shop. It might help. I'm also going to bring the switch so they can see what's going on.

[Randy Tuura]

Took my starter to a real live starter/generator place. The cheap one I bought on line was junk. I recognized the case, and I really hope they showed me the armature that came out of it. Sold me a "new" one made in Canada - or rebuilt up north.

Anyway, it works great! The new battery and internal resistor coil seems to have made a difference. Running great now. Thank's for all your help.

[staninlowerAL]

Good news. Might be worthwhile to have the shop look at the original starter that you removed in the beginning.

[Glen]

Hi,
Glad you got it to work.

[Randy Tuura]

So, I'm done with messing with the starter now. I just want to climb on, hit the starter and go. It is possible that the old starter was good. Will never know though as I think it was discarded by mistake.