I looking to convert my Cub to 12 volts and I've made a small parts list to organize myself and get an idea of the price.
Current Wiring: https://imgur.com/a/NIPQq
Currently starts on 12v then battery is disconnected and it runs on generator
Current parts list: https://imgur.com/a/2rGZS
I will get TM 12v coil if shipping is less.
I know I'm likely missing a few things and that's also where my questions originate.
Difference between Oil and Epoxy coil ?
I know I need an alternator bracket but I'm not sure where to buy it from. I've seen them on Steiner, Yesterdays, and Ebay. Not looking for anything fancy
Do I still need a voltage regulator? As I understand, the alternator has only 1 wire and is internally regulated. I'm not sure how this would be wired up.. I looked at the 12v wiring diagram with the Delco 10SI but it is very different from what's already on my Cub. I found it to be very confusing.
Ammeter price seem too low?
I'm pretty sure I've included all I need to. It's pretty late at night and I've caught a cold from somewhere.
If I've left something important out somewhere let me know so I can add it.
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1956 Cub 6v to 12v
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- punchofdeath
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1956 Cub 6v to 12v
Caleb
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Re: 1956 Cub 6v to 12v
I wouldn't order the Pertronix parts until I had the 12V alternator installed and working.
You can use the current coil by installing a Chrysler ballast resistor in line with the coil. Less expensive.
Wiring a single wire alternator. Wire from battery post on alternator to the amp gauge, then to the terminal on the starter. Wire from amp gauge to the ignition switch, then to the ballast resistor, coil, then to distributor.
Alternator, no need for a voltage regulator. It's contained in the alternator.
Since tractor runs, results of the compression tests are?
From your write up and sketch of the electrical system - - I would clean up and use the 6 volt electrical system.
Edit. Old guy advice. Complete one task. Make sure it works correctly. Move on to the next task.
You can use the current coil by installing a Chrysler ballast resistor in line with the coil. Less expensive.
Wiring a single wire alternator. Wire from battery post on alternator to the amp gauge, then to the terminal on the starter. Wire from amp gauge to the ignition switch, then to the ballast resistor, coil, then to distributor.
Alternator, no need for a voltage regulator. It's contained in the alternator.
Since tractor runs, results of the compression tests are?
From your write up and sketch of the electrical system - - I would clean up and use the 6 volt electrical system.
Edit. Old guy advice. Complete one task. Make sure it works correctly. Move on to the next task.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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