ammeter

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Shane Nelson
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Re: ammeter

Postby Shane Nelson » Tue Nov 21, 2017 9:35 am

Here's the pony tank I made last year from an old lawn mower tank.
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nbsbbaker
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Re: ammeter

Postby nbsbbaker » Tue Nov 21, 2017 11:32 am

I like the "Looking over my shoulder" idea. In the meantime, I'm awfully thankful for the videos you guys are posting. I followed the Flow Chart and when I jumped the generator "F" terminal to ground, the ammeter showed good charge. According to the flow chart the VR needs to be replaced. Yet, the VR is less than 1 year old. Does it seem reasonable that a nearly new VR is bad? I've checked the points and they are clean as a whistle. Can I run any bench tests of the VR to confirm it's demise?

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Re: ammeter

Postby tst » Tue Nov 21, 2017 1:03 pm

you can try adjusting the points to see if it will come back to life, I have found the import units are a waste of money, all of the American units most of the time have USA stamped in the mounting brackets, those I have good luck with

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Re: ammeter

Postby inairam » Tue Nov 21, 2017 1:42 pm

nbsbbaker - I have had the cheap imports and the USA made units can go in a year. there is something about the 6v VRs. As tst said some people have had good luck with the USA made ones but I have not on 6 volt systems. the 12 volts units seem to work and last

There is a resistor between the F terminal and ground download/file.php?id=25454&mode=view that I usually find gets beat up. You could inspect the resister and put a meter on it and see if it is an open circuit. If so maybe a member knows the rating on the resistor and you can solder a modern resister in.

I believe in the solid state units for the 6 volt systems. My 49 has had a solid state unit for over a year ( two seasons) after having 2-3 regulators the past 5 years. I am getting ready to put one in a 51 that is not charging.
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Re: ammeter

Postby nbsbbaker » Tue Nov 21, 2017 3:31 pm

Let me lay my ignorance out for all to see. I've not heard of a 6v "solid state" regulator. I assume the difference is points vs solid state circuitry? Best vender? I'd like to keep Ida Mae original as much as possible but if OEM VR are a problem a large percent of the time I'll move to an upgrade.

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Re: ammeter

Postby Jim Becker » Tue Nov 21, 2017 4:09 pm

nbsbbaker wrote:I followed the Flow Chart and when I jumped the generator "F" terminal to ground, the ammeter showed good charge. According to the flow chart the VR needs to be replaced.

The VR needs to have a good ground. Try adding a temporary jumper from the frame of the VR to a good chassis ground.

Alternate, jump from the VR "F" terminal to the VR frame. With that, the only things you are bypassing are internal to the regulator. If it charges with that jumper, the problem is the regulator. It is still doesn't, the problem is the ground or the wire from gen F to VR F.

inairam
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Re: ammeter

Postby inairam » Tue Nov 21, 2017 5:31 pm

nbsbbaker wrote: Best vender? I'd like to keep Ida Mae original as much as possible but if OEM VR are a problem a large percent of the time I'll move to an upgrade.


The issue is not OEM VRs. All of the VRs generally available now are aftermarket. You can keep the look just replace the inside of the VR.

the only company I could find that had a 6v positive ground able to handle the amperage is clover system in CA.

see post viewtopic.php?f=1&t=94792&hilit=regulator
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nbsbbaker
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Re: ammeter

Postby nbsbbaker » Tue Nov 21, 2017 8:33 pm

Thanks to all. I've chosen to try another VR. From Brillman, made in USA. I'll know in a few days if that fixes the problem.

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Re: ammeter

Postby nbsbbaker » Mon Nov 27, 2017 6:20 pm

It works! New American made VR did the trick. I leaned much on this go-round. I found a local guy that still rebuilds generators, learned how to configure a pony tank so I could run her without a hood, was turned on to a flow chart that made easy work of a diagnosis, found a better way to ground the electrical system, and found a company that has a wiring harness specifically for my year Cub (Brillman). Thanks to each of you for your help.

BTW, is it normal for the ammeter needle to oscillate, even at steady RPM?

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Glen
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Re: ammeter

Postby Glen » Mon Nov 27, 2017 7:55 pm

Hi,
Glad that it works.
On the Cubs I have seen, the ammeter pointers usually move back and forth when the Cubs are charging. I believe it is the points in the voltage regulator moving that causes the pointer movement. :)


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