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ammeter
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- Slim140
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 4908
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:24 am
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: .
1970 International 140
1972 International 140
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: ammeter
Here's the pony tank I made last year from an old lawn mower tank.
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2014 5:53 am
- Zip Code: 30467
Re: ammeter
I like the "Looking over my shoulder" idea. In the meantime, I'm awfully thankful for the videos you guys are posting. I followed the Flow Chart and when I jumped the generator "F" terminal to ground, the ammeter showed good charge. According to the flow chart the VR needs to be replaced. Yet, the VR is less than 1 year old. Does it seem reasonable that a nearly new VR is bad? I've checked the points and they are clean as a whistle. Can I run any bench tests of the VR to confirm it's demise?
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 5184
- Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:08 pm
- Zip Code: 12514
- Circle of Safety: Y
Re: ammeter
you can try adjusting the points to see if it will come back to life, I have found the import units are a waste of money, all of the American units most of the time have USA stamped in the mounting brackets, those I have good luck with
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 2803
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:24 am
- Zip Code: 19342
- Tractors Owned: 1948 6v - Dozer
1949 with kub klipper belly mower. mag 6v - Mom
1950 with plow, 54 blade, mott mag 6v - Roxanne
1953 54 blade, c22, wood 42 6v
1957 6v - barn Queen
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower 12 v - Loboy
1974 Horse II 12 v c-2
1975 with woods 42-6 12 v - Horse
1979 long strip 12 v stuck engine
130 with international 1000 loader 6 v
1969 140 with bush hog tow behind mower 12 v
Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Glen Mills PA
Re: ammeter
nbsbbaker - I have had the cheap imports and the USA made units can go in a year. there is something about the 6v VRs. As tst said some people have had good luck with the USA made ones but I have not on 6 volt systems. the 12 volts units seem to work and last
There is a resistor between the F terminal and ground download/file.php?id=25454&mode=view that I usually find gets beat up. You could inspect the resister and put a meter on it and see if it is an open circuit. If so maybe a member knows the rating on the resistor and you can solder a modern resister in.
I believe in the solid state units for the 6 volt systems. My 49 has had a solid state unit for over a year ( two seasons) after having 2-3 regulators the past 5 years. I am getting ready to put one in a 51 that is not charging.
There is a resistor between the F terminal and ground download/file.php?id=25454&mode=view that I usually find gets beat up. You could inspect the resister and put a meter on it and see if it is an open circuit. If so maybe a member knows the rating on the resistor and you can solder a modern resister in.
I believe in the solid state units for the 6 volt systems. My 49 has had a solid state unit for over a year ( two seasons) after having 2-3 regulators the past 5 years. I am getting ready to put one in a 51 that is not charging.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2014 5:53 am
- Zip Code: 30467
Re: ammeter
Let me lay my ignorance out for all to see. I've not heard of a 6v "solid state" regulator. I assume the difference is points vs solid state circuitry? Best vender? I'd like to keep Ida Mae original as much as possible but if OEM VR are a problem a large percent of the time I'll move to an upgrade.
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- Team Cub
- Posts: 17214
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
- Zip Code: 55319
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MN
Re: ammeter
nbsbbaker wrote:I followed the Flow Chart and when I jumped the generator "F" terminal to ground, the ammeter showed good charge. According to the flow chart the VR needs to be replaced.
The VR needs to have a good ground. Try adding a temporary jumper from the frame of the VR to a good chassis ground.
Alternate, jump from the VR "F" terminal to the VR frame. With that, the only things you are bypassing are internal to the regulator. If it charges with that jumper, the problem is the regulator. It is still doesn't, the problem is the ground or the wire from gen F to VR F.
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 2803
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:24 am
- Zip Code: 19342
- Tractors Owned: 1948 6v - Dozer
1949 with kub klipper belly mower. mag 6v - Mom
1950 with plow, 54 blade, mott mag 6v - Roxanne
1953 54 blade, c22, wood 42 6v
1957 6v - barn Queen
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower 12 v - Loboy
1974 Horse II 12 v c-2
1975 with woods 42-6 12 v - Horse
1979 long strip 12 v stuck engine
130 with international 1000 loader 6 v
1969 140 with bush hog tow behind mower 12 v
Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Glen Mills PA
Re: ammeter
nbsbbaker wrote: Best vender? I'd like to keep Ida Mae original as much as possible but if OEM VR are a problem a large percent of the time I'll move to an upgrade.
The issue is not OEM VRs. All of the VRs generally available now are aftermarket. You can keep the look just replace the inside of the VR.
the only company I could find that had a 6v positive ground able to handle the amperage is clover system in CA.
see post viewtopic.php?f=1&t=94792&hilit=regulator
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2014 5:53 am
- Zip Code: 30467
Re: ammeter
Thanks to all. I've chosen to try another VR. From Brillman, made in USA. I'll know in a few days if that fixes the problem.
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2014 5:53 am
- Zip Code: 30467
Re: ammeter
It works! New American made VR did the trick. I leaned much on this go-round. I found a local guy that still rebuilds generators, learned how to configure a pony tank so I could run her without a hood, was turned on to a flow chart that made easy work of a diagnosis, found a better way to ground the electrical system, and found a company that has a wiring harness specifically for my year Cub (Brillman). Thanks to each of you for your help.
BTW, is it normal for the ammeter needle to oscillate, even at steady RPM?
BTW, is it normal for the ammeter needle to oscillate, even at steady RPM?
- Glen
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6095
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: ammeter
Hi,
Glad that it works.
On the Cubs I have seen, the ammeter pointers usually move back and forth when the Cubs are charging. I believe it is the points in the voltage regulator moving that causes the pointer movement.
Glad that it works.
On the Cubs I have seen, the ammeter pointers usually move back and forth when the Cubs are charging. I believe it is the points in the voltage regulator moving that causes the pointer movement.
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