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Some advice please

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Wilbilly
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 104
Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2015 9:18 pm
Zip Code: 42275
Tractors Owned: 1948 cub, cub cadet original, 1946 Farmall A, 1982 484 ih, 1967 806 Farmall, 1943 b Allis chalmers , 1964 4000 ford,1983 7600 ford, sevral David Bradley walk behind, + parts and peaces.
Location: Butler county, kentucky

Some advice please

Postby Wilbilly » Mon Dec 11, 2017 10:19 pm

Iv been thinking about geting another cub. In the summer I use mine a lot on both the cultivators and the sickel mower and it kinda a pain shaping back and forth.
The idea I have is to get a cub with a hand lift to use for one. The idea I have is to fix up the hand lift cub as kinda a base model and put all the opinions ( it pretty much allready has them) on the other for shows. My qustions are how hard is it to lift a say cultivator or sickel mower with a hand lift. Second question, what would someone expect to pay for a hand lift cub that in far shape or not running would b ok if all was there? Are they any more valuable than a regular cub, I would think a hydraulic lift would be worth more but I don't know.
Thanks Wil
Last edited by Wilbilly on Tue Dec 12, 2017 11:03 am, edited 1 time in total.

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tenn terry t
10+ Years
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Posts: 71
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 9:12 pm
Zip Code: 37036
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Charlotte tn(35 miles west of music city)

Re: Some advice please

Postby tenn terry t » Tue Dec 12, 2017 5:37 am

For 315 bucks JP tractor will sale you every thing needed to install hydraulic lift in your tractor according to their web site. So I assume the tractor has a block off plate where the pump goes I've never messed with a non hydraulic cub myself

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Slim140
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Posts: 4908
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:24 am
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: .
1970 International 140
1972 International 140
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Some advice please

Postby Slim140 » Tue Dec 12, 2017 6:34 am

You don’t want to lift cultivators with a hand lift much, our '47 had hand lift and came with a sickle mower. The mower lifted easy with the hand lift. I put a full set of cultivators on it and listed rows in our garden and it wasn't long I was searching for hydraulics. The hand lift works better than nothing but I prefer hydraulics. Work smarter not harder, right? I found hydraulics from a friend of mine and installed them. Sold the hand lift complete ready to bolt on for $100 and I was happy with that.

As far as price difference on hand lift vs. hydraulics tractors, there isn't much price difference at all on buying a tractor but selling one it may be easier to sell with hydraulics but as far as value it's like comparing red apples with green apples.

Price wise, around these parts you can find Cubs for $500 up to $3,500 depending on who has them and what's been done to them and if they want to sell them or not. Realistically a Cub around here brings about $1,200-$2,500(with cultivators and attachments etc.) running and less than a thousand not running.
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?

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tmays
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Zip Code: 39154
Tractors Owned: 1969 Farmall Cub
1952 Cub
1942 Farmall H
Location: Raymond, MS

Re: Some advice please

Postby tmays » Tue Dec 12, 2017 7:43 am

The hand lift has an assist spring that is adjustable for different loads. Some of the heavier loads still won’t be easy to lift, but it helps.
Thomas

Wilbilly
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 104
Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2015 9:18 pm
Zip Code: 42275
Tractors Owned: 1948 cub, cub cadet original, 1946 Farmall A, 1982 484 ih, 1967 806 Farmall, 1943 b Allis chalmers , 1964 4000 ford,1983 7600 ford, sevral David Bradley walk behind, + parts and peaces.
Location: Butler county, kentucky

Re: Some advice please

Postby Wilbilly » Tue Dec 12, 2017 8:59 am

Well my cub iv got know has hydraulic lift. I just though it be neat to have another one that was a little diffrent than it. I think the ones without a lift are pretty slick looking with no lights. Of corse the other option would be going the other way and get a yellow oneImage.

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tmays
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Posts: 3402
Joined: Wed May 11, 2011 8:59 pm
Zip Code: 39154
Tractors Owned: 1969 Farmall Cub
1952 Cub
1942 Farmall H
Location: Raymond, MS

Re: Some advice please

Postby tmays » Tue Dec 12, 2017 9:28 am

At one point, I had hydraulics and a manual lift on a cub for cultivating. That way I could lift front and rear independently so I could start and stop each pass at the same spot
Thomas

jsfarmall
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Posts: 605
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Zip Code: 72454
Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub "Trusty"
1948 Cub "Rusty"
1948 Cub "Bob"
1948 Cub "Sallie" (wife's tractor)
1965 IH Cub "Annie"
1943 Farmall H
1953 Farmall Super M (granddad's tractor)

Re: Some advice please

Postby jsfarmall » Tue Dec 12, 2017 10:21 am

I have a setup similar to what you are describing you want. I hated swapping the mower every couple weeks to the cultivator and back. I set out looking for another cub. It just so happened to be manual lift and came with a sickle mower. The mower was really easy to lift and lower. I never used it cause it wasn't in working condition. I have my woods 59 mounted on the manual cub and the way I have the lift set with the spring it actually takes.more effort to lower the mower than lift it. Wanted that cause.more likely it would.need to lift it real fast than lower. Don't know about cultivators but mowing I like it better than it was on my hydraulic cub. Very little effort to work the mower up and down.
1948 Cub "Trusty"
1948 Cub "Rusty" mower tractor, trimmed ear dash
1948 Cub "Bob"
1948 Cub "Sallie"
1965 IH Cub "Annie" mower tractor,
1943 Farmall H,
1953 Farmall Super M

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Karl Bader
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Zip Code: 18088
Tractors Owned: 1947 Farmall cub
1952 Farmall cub (some assembly required)
Location: Walnutport, PA
Contact:

Re: Some advice please

Postby Karl Bader » Tue Dec 12, 2017 10:27 am

My 1947 has a handlift. I bought it for mowning, and then wanted to use it for the other chores around the house. Now own a grader blade, Dual modlboard plow, disk harrow.

My opinion: Great for the mower. Everything else expect a sore arm, if it's at all possible... yes the tension on the spring is adjustable, but after 70 years, not much adjustment is possible due to rust...

So I bought a 52 with hydraulics as a restoration project...

jsfarmall
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 605
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2016 1:04 pm
Zip Code: 72454
Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub "Trusty"
1948 Cub "Rusty"
1948 Cub "Bob"
1948 Cub "Sallie" (wife's tractor)
1965 IH Cub "Annie"
1943 Farmall H
1953 Farmall Super M (granddad's tractor)

Re: Some advice please

Postby jsfarmall » Tue Dec 12, 2017 5:33 pm

In other words if you can dedicate a manual lift cub to something that is not raised and lowered alot they are great.
1948 Cub "Trusty"
1948 Cub "Rusty" mower tractor, trimmed ear dash
1948 Cub "Bob"
1948 Cub "Sallie"
1965 IH Cub "Annie" mower tractor,
1943 Farmall H,
1953 Farmall Super M

k hutchins
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Posts: 674
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:48 pm
Zip Code: 48843
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
193 plow
1948 snow/grading blade
Woods 59 C3
Cub 144 cultivator
Cub 22 mower
Cub 172 one row planter
Original manuals for all the above
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Some advice please

Postby k hutchins » Tue Dec 12, 2017 6:47 pm

Ok, I have to chime in here. I have a '48 with a hand lift. That's all I've ever used.
My dad started me cultivating with it when I was 9 or 10 (I had to brace my left foot against the gas tank and use both hands). I've also plowed, graded, pushed snow, mown hay, and just about everything else you can use a cub for. All with a hand lift. When that's all you have you get used to it. No we never adjusted the spring assist, it is what it is.

Having said that, I've also used a friend's cub with hydraulic. I prefer the hand lift. When putting on and taking off equipment sometimes you need to adjust the rocker arm or rear arm just a bit, I don't have to start the engine for hydraulics, just move the arm a notch either way.
I've also found that when grading/snow plowing I can react faster while holding the button in for raising and lowering than hydraulics can.

Again it's what you're used to. For my money Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS principle) no problem with a hand lift. :hattip:
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:

Wilbilly
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 104
Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2015 9:18 pm
Zip Code: 42275
Tractors Owned: 1948 cub, cub cadet original, 1946 Farmall A, 1982 484 ih, 1967 806 Farmall, 1943 b Allis chalmers , 1964 4000 ford,1983 7600 ford, sevral David Bradley walk behind, + parts and peaces.
Location: Butler county, kentucky

Re: Some advice please

Postby Wilbilly » Tue Dec 12, 2017 8:11 pm

K Hutchins, that kinda what I though. I'm just 32 kinda stocky so I really don't think I'll have a problem with it. I'm going to keep this cub the way it is bc it was grandpa's, but I was thinking one with a hand lift would be good for cultivating bc you can ideal with small plants while cultivating. My cub you can't ideal bc the lift work worth a flitter, when you ideal it up you move so fast that you cover up little plants. I know a set of fenders would work too, but really is that not a good enough reason to justify another cub lol.

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Karl Bader
5+ Years
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Posts: 75
Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2017 12:45 pm
Zip Code: 18088
Tractors Owned: 1947 Farmall cub
1952 Farmall cub (some assembly required)
Location: Walnutport, PA
Contact:

Re: Some advice please

Postby Karl Bader » Wed Dec 13, 2017 8:16 am

k hutchins wrote:Ok, I have to chime in here. I have a '48 with a hand lift. That's all I've ever used.
My dad started me cultivating with it when I was 9 or 10 (I had to brace my left foot against the gas tank and use both hands). I've also plowed, graded, pushed snow, mown hay, and just about everything else you can use a cub for. All with a hand lift. When that's all you have you get used to it. No we never adjusted the spring assist, it is what it is.

Having said that, I've also used a friend's cub with hydraulic. I prefer the hand lift. When putting on and taking off equipment sometimes you need to adjust the rocker arm or rear arm just a bit, I don't have to start the engine for hydraulics, just move the arm a notch either way.
I've also found that when grading/snow plowing I can react faster while holding the button in for raising and lowering than hydraulics can.

Again it's what you're used to. For my money Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS principle) no problem with a hand lift. :hattip:


How were you able to grade? I found I barely had enough strength to pull it down to dig into the hard ground... I am not lacking in the muscle department at all, but I found after that day I couldn't use my arm the next day because it felt like jello and was in so much pain!

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Slim140
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Posts: 4908
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:24 am
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: .
1970 International 140
1972 International 140
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Some advice please

Postby Slim140 » Wed Dec 13, 2017 8:18 am

Karl Bader wrote:
k hutchins wrote:Ok, I have to chime in here. I have a '48 with a hand lift. That's all I've ever used.
My dad started me cultivating with it when I was 9 or 10 (I had to brace my left foot against the gas tank and use both hands). I've also plowed, graded, pushed snow, mown hay, and just about everything else you can use a cub for. All with a hand lift. When that's all you have you get used to it. No we never adjusted the spring assist, it is what it is.

Having said that, I've also used a friend's cub with hydraulic. I prefer the hand lift. When putting on and taking off equipment sometimes you need to adjust the rocker arm or rear arm just a bit, I don't have to start the engine for hydraulics, just move the arm a notch either way.
I've also found that when grading/snow plowing I can react faster while holding the button in for raising and lowering than hydraulics can.

Again it's what you're used to. For my money Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS principle) no problem with a hand lift. :hattip:


How were you able to grade? I found I barely had enough strength to pull it down to dig into the hard ground... I am not lacking in the muscle department at all, but I found after that day I couldn't use my arm the next day because it felt like jello and was in so much pain!

That's the problem I ran into trying to get the listing disc deep enough to make a row. I do have 3 bulging disc in my neck and had a 5 year old on my lap and I know neither of those helped :lol:
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?

Circle of Safety

k hutchins
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 674
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:48 pm
Zip Code: 48843
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
193 plow
1948 snow/grading blade
Woods 59 C3
Cub 144 cultivator
Cub 22 mower
Cub 172 one row planter
Original manuals for all the above
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Some advice please

Postby k hutchins » Wed Dec 13, 2017 3:17 pm

It depends on what you're trying to grade and what time of year. I do all my grading in the spring while the ground is still soft. Then I take the blade off and put the mower deck on for the summer.
Also small bites at a time, remember the Cub is not a bulldozer. Run it down, lock it in then go. If adjustments need to be made, go one notch at a time either way.
Maybe it just takes getting used to. I've been operating it that way for 40 yrs. Matter of fact, I just got done plowing 6" of snow out of my 1/4 mi long driveway. Keep in mind it's a gravel drive and my blade doesn't have shoes. So to keep from pushing out all the stone I can't lock it in, I hold the button in and free float it. 5 passes plus.
Again if that's all you've ever had, you learn how.
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:

k hutchins
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 674
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:48 pm
Zip Code: 48843
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
193 plow
1948 snow/grading blade
Woods 59 C3
Cub 144 cultivator
Cub 22 mower
Cub 172 one row planter
Original manuals for all the above
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Some advice please

Postby k hutchins » Wed Dec 13, 2017 3:42 pm

20171213_152215_resized.jpg

20171213_152159_resized.jpg

20171213_152143_resized.jpg


20' wide 1/4 mi long, as well as up and down hill. Takes about 45 min. :hattip:
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:


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