original head bolts

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Command52
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original head bolts

Postby Command52 » Fri Dec 15, 2017 5:55 pm

Is there anyone who sells the original style head bolts with the original style heads on them, Ive read all the head bolt postings about cutting the grace 8 bolts off so they don't go into the water jackets but cant find anything on the original style bolts, Im trying to put back all original thank you

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Re: original head bolts

Postby Bob McCarty » Fri Dec 15, 2017 6:05 pm

HamiltonBobs (sponsor at the bottom of the page) sells them. I can't tell from the picture what the bolt head looks like though. You might call them and ask. Instead of cutting off a grade 8 bolt you can use a grade 8 washer. Case/IH also shows them available, but more expensive.
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Re: original head bolts

Postby RonT » Fri Dec 15, 2017 8:45 pm

To meet the torque requirements I believe the bolts have to be Grade 9, not 8.

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Re: original head bolts

Postby jsfarmall » Sat Dec 16, 2017 9:22 am

I put 8s in mine with no trouble at all. No cutting and only 50lbs or so (forgot exact number) those bolts can handle it no problem. I have torqued grade 5 ⅜ bolts more than that before.not in an engine but they will handle the torque no problem. Usually don't hurt to go a little stronger but not needed.
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Re: original head bolts

Postby Shane N. » Sat Dec 16, 2017 9:44 am

jsfarmall wrote:I put 8s in mine with no trouble at all. No cutting and only 50lbs or so (forgot exact number) those bolts can handle it no problem. I have torqued grade 5 ⅜ bolts more than that before.not in an engine but they will handle the torque no problem. Usually don't hurt to go a little stronger but not needed.

Grade 5’s can’t handle the heat and the stretch. They may work but they won’t work for long. A 3/8” bolt is only 3/8” on the non threaded part, where the threads start they are only 5/16” in the bottom of the thread that’s why most (not all) bolts break in the threaded section, that’s the weakest link.
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Re: original head bolts

Postby inairam » Sat Dec 16, 2017 10:30 am

I have seen comments on the site that original "dot" bolts we less than a grade 5 bolt. I am not sure about that but the "modern" bolt standards were established in the 1960s. I have "dot" head bolts I pulled from the head of a 1949 Cub so they were used on the head

The "dot" bolts we made to IH spec which did differ from the standards of today. I think the heads are thicker. I have read that people have put modern bolts on a lathe to make a "bot" bolt

Personally, even if I were doing a show tractor and using "dot" bolts everywhere else I would use modern bolts ( grade 9) for the head. I am a mechanical engineer who worked for 10 years in aerspace where fasteners were critical. I hate working with cheap nuts and bolts. I use stainless in less critical areas and grade 5 or 8 in more critical and 9 on the head. I keep the "dot" bolts I replace and may use them someday but not today.

This is along with the discussions of electronic ignition, alternators, paint spec and techniques, and LED lights - where do you keep original and where do you upgrade?
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Re: original head bolts

Postby jsfarmall » Sat Dec 16, 2017 10:24 pm

Correct t I would not use a 5 at all in an engine. Because of the heat. But just the torque they can take. Add more to the equation ends in failure.
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Re: original head bolts

Postby tenn terry t » Sun Dec 17, 2017 4:55 pm

I just bought a set of bolts from Hamilton bobs each bolts is stamped SFC along with 3 marks soi guess that makes them grade 5

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Re: original head bolts

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sun Dec 17, 2017 7:02 pm

I believe the original head bolts were grade 9. I got my last set from Mcmaster.com . The longer ones are 1/4 inch longer than originals, but when I measured the depth of the hole it appeared they would not extend beyond the threads in the hole, so I coated them with TFE thread compound and used them. It should take many many years before it is a problem if the bolts extend a little if antifreeze is replaced every few years.
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Re: original head bolts

Postby staninlowerAL » Sun Dec 17, 2017 10:09 pm

I bought a set of grade 9 from FASTENAL and used flat washers instead of cutting the length.

inairam
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1953 54 blade, c22, wood 42 6v
1957 with c-2 mower & c-54 grader blade 6v - barn Queen
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1975 with homemade mower 12 v - Horse
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Re: original head bolts

Postby inairam » Mon Dec 18, 2017 6:53 am

I would be concerned the flat washer on the head bolt may interfere with accurate torque measurements. It may not change the torque measurement enough to matter but it probably does change it.
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Re: original head bolts

Postby Jeff Silvey » Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:25 am

I to also bought mine at Fastenal. They had the correct lengths, I did not add any washers.
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Re: original head bolts

Postby Gary Dotson » Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:50 am

Flat washers are fine on head bolts but they should be hardened washers. (Technically, ground and hardened) Performance engine builders add them routinely. The head bolt torque for a Cub is pushing the limits of grade 8 bolts, they'll probably work fine but grade 9 is the correct bolt for the torque range.

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Re: original head bolts

Postby staninlowerAL » Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:56 am

staninlowerAL wrote:I bought a set of grade 9 from FASTENAL and used flat washers instead of cutting the length.
The reason I added the flat washers was the length was about 3/16 inch more than the ones I removed and someone on this Forum suggested it instead of cutting. As John said they will work, just go a little deeper into the antifreeze.


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