pertronix electronic ignition failures

[Landreo]

The Pertronix website specifically states to use resistor core wires for the ignitor II and III but not for the ignitor so I would assume that solid core wires would be OK for the ignitor module. Since there is some disagreement, I sent a ticket to the Pertronix tech support. They state that all ignitors should have resistor wires. I sent another ticket asking about the disagreement between the tech support response and their website. They did not have a good answer.

Seems like they want resistor wires for all ignitor models even though the website does not say so.

Leave the key on and potentially damage the module, solid core wires potentially damage the module....

For me, no more Pertronix in my future.

[inairam]

Today I had some time to get back to the Cub. Something new happened - It started.

If I just joggle the key to engage the starter it will start. If I hold the key in the start position it will crank but has a lot of trouble starting if it starts at all. This tractor was easy to start all summer, fall and early winter. It was cold the last time I tried and maybe it just needed more cranking than usual because of the cold. Maybe this issue was always there I just did not notice it because the Cub started before the problem showed itself.

This is a 75 with a solenoid, not key and starter button like the 65. I wonder if the switch is faulty or if starting is dropping the voltage to the coil to below the minimum needed for the Pertronix to operate.

The battery is less than 4 months old and the Cub was converted to an alternator last winter. I did not take any voltage readings but I do not think it is the battery/ charging system. The key switch is was also replaced last winter come to think of it.

Should I run a wire from the solenoid to the coil to make sure there is voltage while cranking?

[Dusty B]

Put the electronic ignition on my cub several years ago - no problem so far!! (knock on wood!) Dusty B

[Cubfriend]

Dusty, Do you have 6V Pos, 12V Neg or what?

[inairam]

With the northeaster coming and this being the snow plow I went back to points for now.

[Rick Spivey]

If I just joggle the key to engage the starter it will start. If I hold the key in the start position it will crank but has a lot of trouble starting if it starts at all.

I would suspect this shows a fault in the key switch itself, where you are not getting the signal to the coil while in the start position. But if it works fine with points, ???

[inairam]

Rick I agree. ???

Maybe there is something wrong with this distributor.

I have a spare and when I have some time I will swap it out and take this one apart

[inairam]

It was going over the distributor with the pertronix I took out of my 75 and noticed a good deal of play in the shaft. The thrust washers and seals inside the distributor are available from Messicks.

The parts manual references "373 577 R91 Package distributor shaft bushing " but there is no call out number on the sketch in the parts manual and it is $64. It is available.

Where does this part go and do I need it to reduce the play? Also could shaft play be a problem for the Pertronix unit?

[Clark Thompson]

All petronix 12volt pos or neg ground require a ballast resistor if you do not have a coil with built in resistor. If your using a hot spark coil from petronix you need a ballast resistor. I have had my petronix system on my 1976 IH cub for 15 years wit no issues.

[Stevetractor]

Have two 6v pos ground Cubs with factory coils, and a 12v Neg ground Cub with factory coil. All run solid core wires with no issues. I’ve had one 6v system close to 10 years. Love them, hate points. Well, at least new points. Don’t seem to last like they did years ago. Plugs stay really clean with igniters and start quicker. Just my 2 cents.

[Eugene]

Considering the initial expense of the pertronix ignition systems, not worth the time and effort to change over. Every 5 years I can change the points and condenser on my Cubs for $15.00., each tractor.