Mon May 30, 2011 7:00 am
I bought a 1949 Farmall Cub a few weeks ago. The motor appeared to be stuck,I removed the plugs and put some "loose juice" in each hole.Well it has a belly mower and I started tinkering with it.I moved the rear pulley a few times and noticed the engine turned.I let it set a few days and tried to start it.srayed gas in the carburetor and it fired and tried to run.I then rebuilt the carb. and it needed it bad ,float pin was rusted so float wouldn't work.Now I can't get it to fire.It has a J4 Magneto that has been switched to an external coil.I can put a volt meter on the Magneto kill wire and rotate the engine the points must be working because voltage goes off and on.I read on here about how to time a magneto to the engine.I'll try that today.I am using positive ground with a 12 volt battery and lights disconnected.It has a cutout relay mounted on the generator.The coil checks good with an ohm meter.I did replace the distributor cap and have points and condenser on order.I did remove the points and cleaned them.When I first looked at the points the gap was .020 and I reset to .013 as the J4 calls for,no help so I regapped to .016. That's where I am now any help would be appreciated.I hope the timing is my problem.
Mon May 30, 2011 8:56 am
Welcome to the forum. Someone else will chime in shortly to help you with your firing issue. I rescued one last year that had been in the weeds 12+ years. I tried for weeks to get it to start with no luck and finally someone suggested "pulling it off". I got my neighbor to pull me with his Gator and my little Cub started within the first 100 feet. It has been running ever since. Good Luck with your tractor and let us know how you do. Also we love pictures and again a big welcome.
Mon May 30, 2011 10:57 am
That is a good idea on pulling it off.I done that on a 8N several years ago and hadn't cross my mind to try that.I went through timing the magneto this morning and that didn't work.Hot in the barn couldn't stand it long...LOL Thanks for the welcome!
Mon May 30, 2011 11:12 am
It probably won't crank as quickly as the 8n did, but mine did crank pretty quickly. I would hook it up and drag it until ran. It can't hurt to turn and loosen everything up a little. Let us know if you get it started. Good luck.
Mon May 30, 2011 9:17 pm
Reset points to 0.013". No reason to set at any other gap.
Are you sure external coil is hot, and working.
A mag with external coil is an often used trick, since the internal coils are more expensive.
Unsure , but if you can confirm fire, I would look at fuel since the carb was the last thing changed....
Tue May 31, 2011 5:51 am
Tue May 31, 2011 6:40 am
G'day and congrats
on acquiring your new to you 1949 Cub
Careful, they are pretty addictive
Suggest you follow the links below which will take you to the Service, Parts and Owner's Manuals and lots of other great info and resources available to our members.
Tue May 31, 2011 7:32 am
I'll make this last reply and then try to get on the correct forum.I think this is just the introducing site. I did pull the tractor up and down the drive way a few times before I realized the choke was still closed...I noticed the ammeter was charging and oil pressure gauge was working.I believe this tells me the generator is working and in the right direction...Well it did crank,but when I would stop and clutch in it would not keep running.I plan to look the carb. over again and yes check the coil high voltage side. Thanks for all the help!
Tue May 31, 2011 7:42 am
Welcome to the forum, Congrats on aquiring your new to you cub.
Tue May 31, 2011 7:52 pm
I have a 49 cub
These tractors run like a top when everything is set properly.
To this day I still dont understand why someone would convert to 12 volt and an external coil.
Take the mag off and rebuild it and throw away the external coil (thats probably the problem to begin with )
the coil in the mag has probably been discarded
Take my advise and put it back origional and your problems will be cut in half if not eliminated
Sat Jun 04, 2011 1:15 pm
Welcone to the forum. If you don't find your answers here you never will.
Tue Jun 28, 2011 1:49 am
Well I finally started back to work on my cub.I took the oil pan off and everything looks good,the screen is clean and very little sludge in the bottom.When I removed the valve cover I could tell right then I had valves stuck.I then took the head off and you might know one of the bolts broke off.Yes I tried the easy out and broke it off.I then tried welding a nut to the bolt,that broke off.I finally used a small drill bit and drilled beside the easy out and with a chisel finally got the easy out removed.I then drilled and retapped the hole.With a little more work I think the valves are going to free up.Took most all day to remove one bolt.Do any of you have that kind of fun...LOL
Tue Jun 28, 2011 7:56 am
JRICK wrote:Well I finally started back to work on my cub.I took the oil pan off and everything looks good,the screen is clean and very little sludge in the bottom.When I removed the valve cover I could tell right then I had valves stuck.I then took the head off and you might know one of the bolts broke off.Yes I tried the easy out and broke it off.I then tried welding a nut to the bolt,that broke off.I finally used a small drill bit and drilled beside the easy out and with a chisel finally got the easy out removed.I then drilled and retapped the hole.With a little more work I think the valves are going to free up.Took most all day to remove one bolt.Do any of you have that kind of fun...LOL
Jrick, If you go to the top of page in the search block, punch in broken head bolt, I bet you will find a bunch. It is very common to break a head bolt.
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