1950 cub Going Back to Work!

[Farmer Brandon]

I've been harvesting all day and I have a market to go to tomorrow morning so I'll try to make this short and sweet. I'm a new farmer. I grow vegetables. I have spent a number of years now with a hoe in my hand and I am determined that there must be a better way!
Alas! I have purchased a 1950 Farmall Cub! I spent some of the most profitable parts of my summer getting this old gal going! After removing the head(and breaking three head bolts in the process) I removed the valves and lapped them in til my fingers bled. She purrs like a kitten! I have just started cultivating with Lilian, which is my cub's name. I really love my cub and foresee owning a 140 HC before long. I have to get used to my cub first. Problem is I'm leaking oil out of the rear main(drop every couple minutes) and tran oil out of the both rear finals. Any suggestions on a possible quick fix? I need I cultivate the remainder of the season so tearing her all the way down now it out. I have to wait til it's snowing and nothing's growing and then I can disassemble her.

[tmays]

Welcome to the forum! Since you don't want to tear her down right now, probably best to just live with the leaking rear seal. Final leaking probably due to tranny overfilled or water getting in at shifter if left outside. Drain and fill with 3.5 pints of fluid or pull plug on left side of tranny and fill till it runs out the hole.
And I feel your pain about a hoe. Got sick of one growing up. Told myself when I left home, I'd never have a garden. Nowadays I can't wait till it's warm and dry enough in the spring to get in the garden. That's what a Cub tractor will do to you though!

[randallc]

Welcome to the forum from Arkansas. Agree with Thomas, tackle the rear main after harvest. Drain and refill the transmission does not take much time.

[Farmer Brandon]

Thanks fellas! I drained the old tran oil (which was like goop) and actually just "eyeballed the amount of tran fluid going back in, so I definitely put too much.

What about STP oil treatment to seal the rear main? Worth a shot or not worth it's weight in green beans?

[Don McCombs]

No need to guess on the amount of gear oil. There is a level plug on the left side of the transmission as Thomas mentioned. It is the small square head plug shown in this photo. If you overfilled, your leak will likely continue.


Photo courtesy TM Tractor Parts

[staninlowerAL]

What about STP oil treatment to seal the rear main? Worth a shot or not worth it's weight in green beans?

IMHO not worth the time and effort. Just be aware that there is an upgraded seal and retainer available and your old retainer will need to be fitted to the new seal or exchanged for an upgraded one. tst, forum member, does a good job on this, you can contact him through the form. If you have the tools and equipment, a split and rear seal swapout is about a 3 or 4 hour job without any help. Or take it to a Cubfest. Stan

[ricky racer]

While you're in there replacing the rear main, I suggest you inspect the throw out bearing (grease it today if you haven't already) and adjust the clutch fingers. Once back together, adjust the clutch peddle and you'll be a happy camper.

[Mike in Louisiana]

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you need to wait winter.

[Farmer Brandon]

Thanks for all who replied. Do I have to remove the crankshaft in order to replace the both main bearings? Ultimately I would love to replace all replaceable parts including pistons and rings, valve train, crankshaft, etc. etc.. However I am not made of money and need to repair at minimum.
On a side note this forum is AWESOME! Im not much
For computers even though I'm young and I find it ironic that my 1950 Farmall Cub drove me to opening my first email address. Weird.

[staninlowerAL]

It is possible to replace the main bearings without removing the crankshaft; however not possible to check the wear to determine if it needs to be turned to specs. Just replacing the rod and main bearings might or might not help your situation. Same thing goes for the pistons but with the right equipment you can determine if the cylinders need to be bored or not and might not need to be replaced, only oversize rings. The engine service manual should give you more information, check the links above for pdf manuals or Rudi's manuals.