When Rudi asked me to write a “How-To” on this project, I had to go back and try to remember what I did. I didn’t have any drawings or sketches, just held up the pieces where I wanted them to go, marked them, cut them, and put them together. I knew what the stand was supposed to do, after seeing them in action during the 2010 CubTug at BigDog’s.
I didn’t want to waste a lot of time or money building one, just get it done and use it. Maybe there will be better ones in the future with wheels and height adjusters, but a concrete floor will have to come first. So, here is my attempt to explain the construction process.
What I wanted it to look like was a “U” shape…with a cross brace several inches above the floor to put a bottle jack under for lifting or height adjustment.NOTE: The jack is to lift only - Blocking should be put under the base after desired height is reached.
I found some 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” steel angle laying around. It wasn’t as heavy as I would have liked, but there were no bed frames left ( picked that little tidbit up here on the Forum – using angle from bed frames for projects ). Bed frame angle would be a good choice. If you have access to aluminum angle, it will work as well, providing it is heavy enough. (Disregard all the “extra” holes in the angles – remember, it was salvaged materials).
Drill the 11/16” clearance holes in the ends of the 2 uprights before you start assembly.
To simplify the construction, I followed the angle of the holes in the torque tube, rather than trying to make the legs vertical. Making the legs vertical would require additional plates or bars to allow bolting to the holes, and I was all about being simple and easy.
Although I can weld, I wanted to just bolt the stand together, so it could be used on either set of implement holes…just pull the bolts and make the frame narrower.
To assemble, just clamp the 4 pieces together, drill the holes thru the intersections, and install the bolts.
The location of the cross brace for the bottle jack was just eyeballed…If your jack is taller or shorter, make the adjustment. A floor jack could also be used, I didn’t due to the dirt floor.
To test the stand I jacked the front wheels just off the ground and put a 2x6 under the base, and left it for a day. It worked fine. Keep in mind, this was the full weight of the front end of the Cub…nothing had been “split” or taken off of it. This, I felt, was probably a good test of the stand.
There was a little bit of sway side-to-side with the stand, but a little heavier angle should take care of that.
In regards to being able to “split” the tractor, you can either move the front half with your hoist / shop crane / cherry picker or slide the rear half away if you blocked under the base with smooth wood planks.
This splitting stand is not the one-for-all stand, as it won’t attach to the starter, for rear splits. But for the cost and ease of construction it fits the bill nicely.
(2) pieces steel angle 36” long
(2) pieces steel angle 18-1/4” long – based on 1-1/2” angle legs [need 15-1/4” inside dimension]
(4) 1/4” (minimum) bolts with lockwashers and nuts.
You will need an 11/16” drill bit to make the holes for the bolts going into the torque tube.
I had some 5/8”-11 bolts here at the house, but you could use your implement bolts to mount the stand to the torque tube.