New to Me Farmall AV

[Slim140]

Looks good Stanton, I may try this on our 140 this winter.

[Stanton]

Looks good Stanton, I may try this on our 140 this winter.

I suppose, if you had access to a metal-cutting bandsaw, you could cut the teeth in the sheet metal before cutting it out and bending/welding it into place. As a flat piece of sheet metal, you'd have more control cutting the teeth on the bandsaw and, hopefully, get more uniform cuts/teeth. I used a 4-1/2" disc cutoff wheel on my angle grinder, cutting them freehand. The thickness of the disc made it hard to get uniform results.

Thanks anyway, though.

[AL Farmall Boy]

Looks good Stanton, I may try this on our 140 this winter.

I suppose, if you had access to a metal-cutting bandsaw, you could cut the teeth in the sheet metal before cutting it out and bending/welding it into place. As a flat piece of sheet metal, you'd have more control cutting the teeth on the bandsaw and, hopefully, get more uniform cuts/teeth. I used a 4-1/2" disc cutoff wheel on my angle grinder, cutting them freehand. The thickness of the disc made it hard to get uniform results.

A dremel secured into a stand might work well too.

[Stanton]

The footrest on my AV was deteriorated and worn. Thought I would try and make a new one. Bought a 1/2"dia. x 36" long (1/16" thick sidewall) stick of pipe at Home Depot or some such place and laid out everything I needed:

• duct tape
• funnel
• sand
• 1/2" pipe

First, use the duct tape to seal off one end. Then use the funnel to add the sand into the pipe. Tamp it down good and fill it all the way to the top. Seal the other end with duct tape.

Looking around the shop, I spied a heavy gauge piece of 2" pipe. It fit the radius of the old footrest, so placed it in my heavy-duty vise and using a few thick washers, was able to wedge the pipe in between the back of the vise/washers and the pipe.

Bent the 1/2" pipe without any problem or kinks. Made a nice 90 degree bend, leaving plenty extra on the end. Marked my new pipe with the old footrest and made the second bend.

Leaving a generous portion of the pipe, I trimmed off about a 3" piece. Wondering how this pipe would react to my 12 ton press, I flattened out the waste piece as a test. The pressing of pipe automatically set the appropriate angle. I always like it when things fall into place.

The rest was trimming, grinding and drilling.

Was pretty pleased with the finished product. I'll throw it on the pile and it'll get primer and paint sometime down the road.

[Slim140]

Looks great Stanton, I love it when government projects turn out good without the "proper" tools

[outdoors4evr]

Stanton, I love your attention to detail and the creative - possibly old school - ways of recreating components. I had never heard of using sand to keep a pipe from collapsing while bending. Today I learned a "new, old trick".
Thank you for posting. We all learn a great deal from your posts.

[Stanton]

Having a devil of a time getting the left brake off the rod (the 2 arrows in the attached pic). I don't have an oxy/acetylene torch. Used a grinder to grind down the end of rod flush with brake pedal, in case there was any mushrooming of the rod. Have used lots of 50/50 transmission fluid/acetone. Have also heated it up with a propane torch. Used a 2-jaw and 3-jaw puller; no movement.

Any advice on how to tackle this?

I'm about to cut the other end off, pull the rod/brake out, get them separated (away from the tractor), then reweld the little dogleg back on.

Thoughts?

[Slim140]

Have any friends with an oxy/acetylene torch? There is a huge difference in the amount of heat put out between them and a propane torch.

[Stanton]

Have any friends with an oxy/acetylene torch? There is a huge difference in the amount of heat put out between them and a propane torch.

I know there is a big difference. I'll ask around. Have been looking for an excuse to buy a set...

[Rick Spivey]

Cheaper, and may work, is to buy a MAPP gas refill for your propane torch head. Same canister, just yellow, and a bit hotter. Probably less than $10 if it works....if not, the MAPP is more useful to have around anyway.

[Don McCombs]

I don't believe that you can use "MAPP" with a propane head. I think you can do the reverse, however.

https://www.hunker.com/13415241/mapp-gas-vs-propane-gas

[randallc]

Your shop needs a good acetylene set. You'll find many uses for it.

[Stanton]

Thanks for the suggestions.

On another front, a governor rebuild question: is the governor thrust bushing supposed to fit tightly or slide freely on the shaft?

[Stanton]

Thanks for the suggestions.

On another front, a governor rebuild question: is the governor thrust bushing supposed to fit tightly or slide freely on the shaft?

I'll answer that: It's supposed to slide loosely along the shaft of the pinion as the weights open and close.

Finished the governor rebuild over the weekend. Here's a few pics, beginning with my evaluation of what needed to be replaced:

Parts I ordered:
Grainger

• Needle Bearing, item # 35TX17, Mfr. Model # BH68 OH
• Spring, item # 54KX48, Mfr. Model # C02400421380M

McMaster-Carr

• Seal/Retainer for the Speed Shaft, item # 5154T11
• Thrust Bearing, item # 6655K17

Hamilton Bob's

• Governor Spring

Download and use the Service Manual for the Farmall A and B, and the Parts Manual. Both were most helpful. Work in a clean area, trying to keep all parts as clean as possible. Use same motor oil as you use for your tractor as lubricant.

First, disassemble the governor. Most everything comes out in a fairly straightforward way. I used the Governor Rockshaft to help push out the internal needle bearing.

Lay everything out on a clean paper towel and inspect. You can see from the pic that the thrust bearing disintegrated; from what, I don't know, but it must have produced some heat to melt a portion of the thrust sleeve.

Clean all the pieces to be re-used and the castings. Use a little motor oil and install the new needle bearings. First one goes on the inside of the casting. I was able to get a socket extension through the outer bearing opening, put the socket on and tap/drive/push the needle bearing into place.

This was followed up by the installing the outer bearing.

After that, install the seal/retainer for the Speed Change Lever and the retainer/leather seal for the Rockshaft. I had some leather that I used to cut a new seal; re-used the original retainer.

With the seals/retainers in place, next pre-assemble the Governor Rockshaft Lever casting (internal) to the Speed Change Lever. Insert the Rockshaft rod through the internal Rockshaft casting with the Governor Spring and Governor Spring Lever attached, line up the holes in the casting and rod to insert the spirol pin. Then, finish installing the hardware for the Speed Change Lever. I found it easier to get the Governor Spring hooked in both places BEFORE putting this all back together; you may differ. When installing the Governor Spring, be sure to have the open portion of the top hook facing the left, toward the housing (per the Service Manual). The next picture shows it in the wrong direction. The top hook needs to be facing the other way. The second picture shows it correctly. The Rockshaft should rotate freely with no drag whatsoever.

Next, re-install the weights, lining the pin hole up with the weight hole for the cotter pin. Install the Thrust Sleeve and Thrust Bearing. I re-used the nylon thrust sleeve by filing out the burrs inside until it slid smoothly along the shaft.

Lastly, install the spring and pin. Use the old springs for estimated length. The spring that goes inside the Governor Pinion shaft (concealed) was the correct length out of the package. The Governor Bumper Spring had to be trimmed down.

I cut a new gasket, installed the welsh plug and bagged it away for installation later.

I will be anxious to get this installed and see how she works.

[Stanton]

Was able to get the left brake off the rod without using an oxy/acet torch. Once I realized the rod had been mushroomed slightly, there was no way it was coming off. I tapped the left brake casting back up the rod, out of the way, then filed and ground down the mushroomed end until it slipped off.

Turning my attention to the seat. The remnants of the old padded seat were still in the lip, so it needed to be pried up and cleaned out.

An old chisel from an auction purchase.

A 3-in-1 tool from an auction purchase.

The woven cord used to install the fabric seating material.

It had a piece cut out of it that needed repair.

A piece had been ground away, exposing the lip.

Hole squared up with a grinder/cutting disc and a piece of same gauge sheetmetal bent and formed to match the 1/4" inside diameter of the rolled lip.

Formed with a 1/4" diameter screwdriver inside.

Basic shape. Now to cut to length.

Dry fit; ready for welding.

Welded and ground down. Ready for seat fabric.

Topside.

Bottom.

If the right seat support could talk, bet it could tell some stories. Somebody did a number on it.

Extra holes, rusting away and part of the front edge cut away.

Had a scrap of 1/8" sheet metal in the pile. Cleaned and squared up the ragged edge of the cut and used the left seat support as a guide.

Welded in place and ground down.

Am still working on those extra, raggedy holes. Will get them plugged and welded.

By the way, took my engine to an overhaul guy about 4 miles from me about a week ago. Will let you know more about it once complete.