Hydraulic Pump Challenge...

[BohemianJon]

Well, I've not gotten into this area before and know enough to know I need some help. My 130 has hydraulic oil getting into the crankcase...so...I guess I have a problem with the hydraulic pump. Where do I start? Is there a simple way of doing this by replacement of some easy to get to seals and/or screens...filters? My manuals don't cover this and some of the past topics don't seem to give enough detail. What are my options? Appreciate any help and guidance. Thanks.

[Slim140]

You can get a pump rebuild kit and replace the o-ring that the shaft goes through and hope that it doesn't start leaking again or you can take the pump to a machine shop and have them bore out the housing for a oil seal, weld the groove on the shaft and turn it back to normal size. I've done several of them that way and they seem to work good. The shaft usually has a groove worn in it where the o-ring rides and that doesn't help anything. They make "X" o-rings as well you may could try one of them.

[BohemianJon]

Thanks Shane...Regarding that Hydraulic Pump Rebuild Kit...is there a place here where could I take a look at the Instructions involved in doing the rebuild? I've looked here but can't seem to find anything. And where would I purchase a kit? Again, Thanks

[Don McCombs]

You don't really need a whole kit to repair a leaking shaft. The o-ring size is 208. Make sure you get one made from buna-n at an auto parts store. The ones used for plumbing are not oil resistant. Your pump is similar enough to the Cub pump that you can use those instructions.

[indy61]

Steiner Tractor Parts has a kit and instructions. *Note: Verify pump # before ordering as there were different pumps used by IHC.*

https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS3506- ... d-Seal-Kit

Instructions...
https://www.steinertractor.com/products ... ctions.pdf

[Don McCombs]

Looks like from the instructions that indy61 posted, that the 130 pump may be different from the Super A/C pump. If the pump has a seal instead of an o-ring, my comments are invalid.

[BohemianJon]

Excuse me if this is up twice...might be a "Senior Moment"...thought I posted something like this yesterday but I don't see it so here goes again. Not sure I should get into rehabing this pump. I'm not much of a "shade tree mechanic" and don't want to tackle this if its beyond my capabilities. Have concerns about just getting started...and am hopeful to see and review some instructions or a Manual of the proper way of doing this. The pump is located on the right side of the motor just below the distributor...and above the steering housing...and has several tubes going to it. I assume I should drain off the oil before getting started and its things like this I'd like to read up on in some Installation Instructions or a Service Manual covering this before starting. Numbers I can see on the pump are...05 12185... 350528R32...and 05131208501. Any guidance is appreciated...maybe even including any info about a good tractor mechanic here in S W Lower Michigan.

[Don McCombs]

Excuse me if this is up twice...might be a "Senior Moment"...thought I posted something like this yesterday but I don't see it so here goes again. Not sure I should get into rehabing this pump. I'm not much of a "shade tree mechanic" and don't want to tackle this if its beyond my capabilities. Have concerns about just getting started...and am hopeful to see and review some instructions or a Manual of the proper way of doing this. The pump is located on the right side of the motor just below the distributor...and above the steering housing...and has several tubes going to it. I assume I should drain off the oil before getting started and its things like this I'd like to read up on in some Installation Instructions or a Service Manual covering this before starting. Numbers I can see on the pump are...05 12185... 350528R32...and 05131208501. Any guidance is appreciated...maybe even including any info about a good tractor mechanic here in S W Lower Michigan.

In the upper left corner of this screen, click on Quick Links. Select PDF Manuals from the drop down menu. Go to the bottom and click on Service Manuals. Select Blue Ribbon Service Manuals. Scroll down and select GS 1279 - Hydraulic Pumps. This manual should give you a basic understanding of how hydraulic pumps are made and how they work. Although the manual doesn't contain procedures specific to your pump, it does gives disassembly and assembly instructions that can be applied to your pump.

[Dale Finch]

Just off the top of my head, there are some things you need to keep in mind that MIGHT be the same as the cub, with regard to working on the hydraulics.

If you will be working on the pump (it does sound like the shaft seal is bad), you WILL be draining the hydraulic fluid. Before opening the drain plug on the TC (touch control) block, I recommend you open the FILL plug on the TC block to ensure it is not pressurized. This will hopefully prevent you from spraying fluid all over when you remove the drain plug!

With the cub, you need to loosen both ends of the hydraulic manifold (the 2 pipes between, the block and the pump). This will allow you to remove the pump. If it is the same as the cub, only 2 of the 4 bolts actually hold it in place...the other 2 hold together the 2 halves of the pump. If I had to guess, I would say the upper right and lower left bolts are the 2 to remove, but hopefully someone more familiar will come along. Make sure you have drip pans for both ends, as it is messy!!

The manuals posted above should help you with the actual rebuild, but if you have questions, just ask. It's really not that hard, just be methodical and I strongly recommend taking lots of photos...of every step!

[BohemianJon]

Thanks Don & Dale...I'm about ready to get started on this again after some delays. Anyway, I was discussing this at a NAPA store and an old farmer customer guy standing there mentioned and suggested the possible use of adding SeaFoam to the hydraulic fluid to clean the shaft and o ring and even the filter before tearing everything apart...the NAPA guy said he had not heard of this before and didn't know if it would work or hurt anything by doing it. Have you ever heard of this approach before and do you see any problem of trying it??? Thanks again for all your help, John

[Jim Becker]

. . . adding SeaFoam to the hydraulic fluid . . .

I would absolutely NOT do this.

Detergent commonly in motor oil is one of the original reasons special hydraulic fluids were developed. Detergents cause foam in hydraulic oil. Air trapped in the system is one of the major operating problems in them. I assume Seafoam has a lot of detergent in it -- after all, it is sold as a cleaner.

[Dale Finch]

In addition to what Jim said, since you will be disassembling EVERYTHING, then cleaning out the entire block and installing new orings, etc, there is no reason to do any "prep" work before you dig in. That screen will probably be all gunky, and may even be disintegrated. If it is still in good shape, you will be spraying it down with carb cleaner (or equivalent) anyway.