Another steering question

[NCSUmoomba]

I know there have been several threads about the loose steering, but I have another question that I didn't see addressed.

We just pulled apart the steering on my Dad's 140 (1973?) and the only thing we found was the upper bearing was shot. Probably because my Dad has NEVER put any fluid in it. (I think I read that 80 or 90 gear oil is used for "International Steering OIl". We were a little concerned about the lower seal (the SKF 471765?) is only single sided, whereas the one we pulled out was two sided. (I'm sure Squatch253 would not be surprised.)

Anyway, we put it all back together, and there is still quite a bit of play in it. The gears looked fine. The bushing looked fine. The keys looked good, although the upper one had a VERY slight bit of play. Would a tiny but of play cause the system to have about maybe 60 to 90 degrees of play in it? The other thing we noticed is that the steering shaft still moves in and out quite a bit even though the castle nut behind the bearing is as tight as it can get. It seems to have bottomed out on the step in the shaft.

Thanks for the help!

[Super A]

My experience has been that a tiny bit of play = a bunch of slop in the front wheels when it's all back together. Is the vertical sector shaft moving up and down, or the long shaft that the steering wheel is attached to? You're probably looking at a complete overhaul of the steering gearbox to get it back tight.

Al

[Gary Dotson]

The steering shaft moving in and out = steering play. You need to address that.

[NCSUmoomba]

The vertical shaft shouldn't be moving, we just repaired that. We replaced the #17 "Steering worm wheel shaft ball bearing" (ST288 used National 305) which was totally shot and, obviously the #26 "Steering worm wheel shaft oil seal" (382230r91 used National 471765), but everything else was "fine" (read: not worn enough to merit the trouble of replacing). We removed the #11 "Steering worm" nut because Dad thought the whole steering shaft needed to be removed, but we didn't need to. We put it back on pretty tight, but there is still some in & out play in the (long) "Steering worm shaft" (#6). How is the blacklash and/or mesh adjusted between those gears? It seemed odd that when we put that nut back on that it bottomed out on the step in the shaft. Thanks!

[Gary Dotson]

I'm not sure on the 140 but I would suspect it could be shimmed to eliminate the end play.

[Super A]

The vertical shaft shouldn't be moving, we just repaired that. We replaced the #17 "Steering worm wheel shaft ball bearing" (ST288 used National 305) which was totally shot and, obviously the #26 "Steering worm wheel shaft oil seal" (382230r91 used National 471765), but everything else was "fine" (read: not worn enough to merit the trouble of replacing). We removed the #11 "Steering worm" nut because Dad thought the whole steering shaft needed to be removed, but we didn't need to. We put it back on pretty tight, but there is still some in & out play in the (long) "Steering worm shaft" (#6). How is the blacklash and/or mesh adjusted between those gears? It seemed odd that when we put that nut back on that it bottomed out on the step in the shaft. Thanks!

There is no adjustment. If anything has any wear at all, it needs to be replaced. MOST of the time, there's not much wear on the worm wheel shaft gear. Check the nut on the end of the worm wheel shaft, as well as the condition of that bearing. The big bearing retainer you screw down on the front needs to be tight. It seats the bearing inside the housing.

And old timer told me that when you go into the steering gear, you're better off to replace everything. I suspect you also have wear on the keyway where the sector gear fits to the vertical shaft--sometimes you can't tell until the weight of the tractor is on it. That's a lot of $$$, but fortunately Steiner has the most expensive parts available now, much better than caseIH's price.

Al