Stumbling stalling in 3 and 4th gear - Timing?

[inairam]

I have a 12v 1969 key with push-button start 140 that was running and starting well all year. I had it as part of a fall display by the road with a hay wagon with some straw bales, pumpkins, and the like. I would go by every other week and start it and run it for a while maybe disconnect the wagons and run it around or use it for something.

I was shutting it down by turning off the gas at the sediment bowl. Well one time I forgot to turn off the ignition and it sat for 2 weeks like that. The battery would not hold to charge. I had to replace that. The ignition was fried. I pulled the distributor to work on it in the barn. Got it to TDC #1 compression and clocked the distributor to #1 and got the tractor to start so I could get it back to the barn and finish. The PO painted over the timing marks. With a timing light and a light and a magnifier, I got it as close as I could to 14 degrees BTD.

It starts well and runs well in 1st and 2nd but can stumble sometimes under a load like a hill. However, does stumble in 3 and does not run in 4th as all. ( previously had no issues in all 4 gears). This tractor has a tach the engine is at ~ 1550-1575 high idle

Question 1

Is the timing not advanced far enough to too far? The manual lists two setting one for the engine SN below 103556 (22 degrees) and above that sn it is 14 degrees. Did I mention the PO repainted it. can not make out the engine sn. The max mark I could see is 30 degrees.

Question 2

I also noticed the tractor was not charging which is was working fine before my mistake. Can the regulator's points fail from the ignition being left on or was that just a coincidence?

Thank you in advance.

[Jim Becker]

That engine number was August 1963. So you should have the later version. Your distributor should be a "T" code. You should find that on the mounting flange. I suppose paint is covering that too.

If paint was keeping me from reading the timing marks, I'd find a fix, either add more paint, or remove some paint, or maybe add some chalk. I think I'd start with the chalk. Same thing with the engine number. At 14, your timing should be right.

Leaving the switch on shouldn't hurt the charging system. It could ruin the battery, points, or coil. Have you changed the coil?

[inairam]

Jim

I did not change the coil. Will do.

When I got it started I did use some scotch bright and long needle nose pliers and clean up the area and did mark 0-10 -20

I will put in a new coil and start over and check everything again. The distributor could be off a few teeth. The top is turned noticeably past 12 O clock ( 11:30) toward the block.

[inairam]

Have you changed the coil?

Can a coil work well under light load and fail under a high load on the engine?

[Jim Becker]

Have you changed the coil?

Can a coil work well under light load and fail under a high load on the engine?

Yes. Here is one report. It was a Cub with a magneto, but the effect is the same.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102443#p810067

[inairam]

The coil was very hot. I do remember touching it but when I got spark I thought it was ok. The coil new in 2020 when I got the tractor did a turn up which included the coil.

[Jim Becker]

Rob one from another tractor to see if it fixes it. You must have another 12-volt tractor sitting around.

[inairam]

Jim,

I hate doing that. Once something is running I hate to take it offline to try to get something else running. Now you have two tractors that are down.

Woody Hayes, a football coach at Ohio State—"Three things can happen when you pass the ball, and two of them are bad." I feel every time you put a wrench on these things you have to make it better you have to be prepared for more bad than good and I do not like looking for trouble.

[Rick Spivey]

I agree that the coil could be bad, I had a Cub that would run, but not under load. New coil fixed it right up.

[tst]

ever take the distributor apart to lube the advance weights, make sure they are not froze up ? also if the point gap is closed up it would cause the same problem

[inairam]

ever take the distributor apart to lube the advance weights, make sure they are not frozen up? also if the point gap is closed up it would cause the same problem

I plan the go back into the distributor. I was not taking my time when I did it before.

[SONNY]

Check the springs on the dist. weights AND also check the shafts the weights ride on and how tight the weights are on the shafts! -----Had to get a different dist. for my 340, since everything in there was worn out and sloppy,---engine ran like crap. ---- Different dist., it now runs smooth as silk!

[inairam]

I got a new coil from NAPA and installed it today. I did a test drive of just that change. The tractor started a bit better and did better but it was not 100%. I took the distributor out and reset the points ( TST suggestion) got the engine to TDC compression #1 clocked the distributor to #1 and started it up.

I still had the issue with seeing the marks with the light. I decided to loosen the front cowling to get more of a pointing rearward angle with the light and that helped a great deal. I am more confident the timing is correct or at least as close to correct as I can see the marks.

The tractor started well and had no problems in 1-3. I had to really feather the clutch in 4th but it did run in 4th and I was throwing mud all over from the tires in my "running for the law" gear.

Thanks, everyone. Now my heavy snow mover will be ready for winter.

[ShawnAgne]

Maybe this was already mentioned but when its cold my 300 needs to be warmed up before it can use the higher gears. Now the 100 is good to go, assuming because I don't have the valves and timing on the 300 as good as the 100. So maybe since you're running now with the new coil look at that too?

[inairam]

I have noticed between the Zenith carb and the larger engine that my 130-140 need more warm-up time than the cubs. I did have the engine warm when I set the timing. The manual says to get the manifold temp up before the timing is set. I have not adjusted the valves. I need to replace the gaskets and will do it then.