Farmall Cub

I bought a 3-point hitch kit from Red Land Hill, and asked before hand if it would fit my Super A. The reply was "Yes, it is a Category 1, and would you like to buy our super-de-duper expensive special Super A retrofit kit for $500+", but I just bought the components and am fabricating the rest myself. As always, I think I'm saving money until I get around to having to fill in the rest.

So, I have the original 2-point hitch mounted on the tractor just fine, and I've put on the lower lift arms (I fabricated some really nice pins on my lathe that thread into the final drives) but I notice that the lower lift arms are *really long*.

They are attached at the same point as the original drawbar (the pins replaced the lower bolts at the rear of the final drives), and the two adjustable links go straight up from the lower lift arms to the tips of the 2-point hitch's upper lift arms , but then the lower lift arms keep going 18" or more after that!

It seems like the lower lift arms should only go a few more inches past the adjustable links. Merlin sent me a drawing that showed something like 21" lower lift arms, but these ones are a good 30" probably, I'll have to measure them when it stops pouring down rain, and if my house doesn't get washed away. The river out back is *raging*.

Allen,

The A never had a "two point" lift of any sort. I think you're talking about the rear rockshaft, which has two lift arms.

Whatever you have, it doesn't sound right. Are you sure that's how it's supposed to be installed? Maybe you have the arms turned around backwards? Are you sure it's not supposed to be bolted to the front mount points on the casting? Are you sure you're not missing a bracket or something?

It sounds like they sold you a pair of generic Category 1 arms and pins.

Well, I did get a generic set, but that's my own fault, because that's what I ordered.

As the lift arms are supported from the rear rockshaft by adjustable links that are hanging nicely straight-up-and-down, I don't think I have mounted the lift arms incorrectly, I just think there needs to be about 6 inches removed from the back half of the lower lift arms! They are way longer than 21"...

Well, I'm going to continue to fabricate the top link mount, and then I'll also try to post some pics. What a booger-up

Bah! If you're fabbing up other stuff, it's absolutely trivial to whack that 6" out of the arms so they're more like the commercial kits made specifically for that tractor. They're probably blue or pink anyway, so you won't be ruining the paint...

I wish

I can bolt and weld the top link together safe enough, but I don't think my Mig or my oxy-acetylene kit are big enough to weld together that much steel on the lower lift arms

Allen,

is there any way to move the mounting points of the adjustable links rearward? straight up and down probably isn't optimal to begin with.

If, in some way, you could drill or weld another way to mount them to the lift arms, say, 6-8" rearward, it may solve a host of problems.

--Tom

I figured having the adjustable links straight up and down would put the least strain on the pins on the final drives. If I move the lower lift arms way forward to the bolts on the front of the final drives, I could drill holes much closer to their rear mounting holes!

I'll give that a look-see the next time I'm out there

Hey Allen. If it was me, I'd leave them that long for now, get you a top link that will reach out to match the lower lift arm length,and check things out first. The main thing you'll run into if you shorten the arms, is when you finally buy a rear scraper blade and want to pull the pin to spin the blade around in reverse position, it will hit your tires because you cut the dumb arms off an 1" too short (don't ask).The power from the A should work just fine with your adjusters straight up and down, plus it probably looks more professional When I built some 3 points, I just bought the weld on ends and made my own arms, was cheaper that way. You probably paid over $40.00 a piece for the ones you bought. Usually the Ford's(9n,2n,8n) are the normal ones sold. Also, make sure you install some criss-cross chains to keep your arms from swinging side to side and getting into the tires when turning. Just my .02, Rick

Thanks Rick, I bought the hooks for the chains and put them on the lift arms, but I can't figure out where to hook them up on the tractor.

I finished fabricating the top link mount tonight and put everything together, including a couple vertical A bars for my drawbar. The're a little too long for the moment, but it sure looks cool!!!

Hi allen. A real simple and effective way to mount the chains, and also fast for adjusting them is like the pic below. Just find some 1/8 inch by about 2" wide flatstock, drill your 7/8 link pin hole, and cut your slot for whatever size chain you bought, and your ready to go, after a slight bend. Have fun, Rick

billyandmillie, that sure is nice. This is what mine looks like. Ugly, but sure does work and was built for under $100.00.

Merlin:

Sure would be nice to have more pics of that setup and some explanations.. it is in my ballpark for price.. and geez even looks like it might be in the range of my skill level with steel...

Yep Merlin, I'm with Rudi. Let's see some close-up pics with different angles. I'm up for some new ideas. And, what else do you have back there? Why does your pto shaft look so low, another invention of yours
Everything looks nice and neat to me. Nice job, Rick

billyandmillie wrote:Why does your pto shaft look so low, another invention of yours

It is a Super A, not a Cub.

Merlin wrote:billyandmillie, that sure is nice. This is what mine looks like. Ugly, but sure does work and was built for under $100.00.

What did you use to fasten the lift bars to the mounting brackets on the tractor