Farmall Super A, AV, 1939 - 1954
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hello first off my name is matthew im 16 and live in california my dad hase a none runing (ran when parked) 1942 farmall cub (i think) that he is letting me work on its been sitting for 6 years so i changed the oil and cranked it over with the hand crank its not geting any spark so i looked and found missing wires i took some pics and was wondering if any one knew where they whent and what i need to re atach thanks in advance heres a pis of whats missing
Hi Matthew and welcome to the cub site. First I want to warn you that when you use that hand crank, if the engine kicks back it can break your wrist/fingers ect. You can go to the Manual server and look at the electrical diagrams. Your cub has to be a 1947 and up. Look for the serial # on the right side where the steering shaft goes into the steering box. Let us know what your ser # is and someone that knows electrical better than I do will give you all the info you need. Also if the tractor set that long check the air breather for mice nest.
1975 cub (LouAnn) serial # 245946, 1941 John Deere Model H
Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Will Rogers
The generator appears to be on the wrong side. Are you sure this is a cub?? Kind of hard to tell from the pic.
Tractors in the stable: '62 560D Cub Cadets in the stable: 782D, 1572 SGT, 1772 SGT, 1782 SGT
I agree it is probably an A. If so, it could very well be a 1942 model. It appears to have the original type 3-brush generator but the cut-out has been home-brew replaced with a voltage regulator. One of the missing wires is the field wire from the generator so you can safely ignore all the charging system problems until the engine runs.
If it still has the original ignition system, it is a magneto and does not connect to any of the electrical system. First step is to work on the magneto to get some spark. Post a picture of the other side of the engine, and we can verify whether it has the original ignition system or if it has been modified. A few modifications could invalidate any suggestions we make about getting it going.
The wiring diagram for an A looks about like one for an early Cub:
Welcome Matthew Even if it's not a Cub and is an "A" we can still help you out. See if you could get a more complete picture of the tractor and some of the more seasoned vets will tell you more Donny has an "A" and I'm sure he is willing to try and help out as are a lots of other folks. Again welcome to the forum
I bought an old tractor all dusty and worn,
knew nothing about her just the year she was born
I washed her and greased her and painted her red
Now she lives happily right here in my shed.
HOME of THE STONETHROW CUBFEST
2007 Cub Tug Champion
Welcome Matthew, not to fret, not to worry, these guys will have you up and running in nothing flat. Pete
Sounds like a nice project. It is great to see the younger generation getting involved its a lot of fun and you learn some good stuff
22 mower 5', grader blade, 189 two way moldboard plow, cultivators ,danco C2 mower,1961 Comet, 1984 BMW 318i
Part of life is falling down, living is getting back up.
Hi Matthew and welcome. You will find a lot of really great folks here that have an unbelievable wealth of knowledge. They can help you with any problem. Enjoy, learn, and contribute when you can.
High atop Hummingbird Hill
In the Missouri Ozarks
Yes, it is a Farmall A. It has at least part of a Pneumatic Lift-All (the funny thing on the exhaust manufold is part of it). The big bracket on the left side of the bell housing is part of the lift for a plow. The control lever for the Lift-all appears to be the early style. Your hood uses the early style fasteners, last used on serial 41329 (very late '40). So if parts haven't been swapped around, it is no later than '40.
The serial number plate is probably on the right side of the left seat support bracket. If it is a very early tractor, it will be on the shield below the front edge of the driver's platform. If the serial number plate is missing and it has the original engine (big if), the engine number will match the serial number. It is stamped into a machined boss at the top edge of the engine block, roughly below the number 1 spark plug.
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