Farmall Cub

Is this normal? I am going to say no but then again I do learn stuff everyday.

Nope, looks like you have some water in there.

Mine was like this when I first got it, I dumped it, added some fresh gear lube along with seafoam, ran it around. Dumped it, and replaced.

Doesn't take much gear lube so this isn't too expensive to do. Remember to only fill it until it comes out the test plug on the side.

P B G wrote:Nope, looks like you have some water in there.

Mine was like this when I first got it, I dumped it, added some fresh gear lube along with seafoam, ran it around. Dumped it, and replaced.

Doesn't take much gear lube so this isn't too expensive to do. Remember to only fill it until it comes out the test plug on the side.

I am thinking this is the test plug?


Can I put the same oil i put in the finals in the trans?

Yes, use the same oil in the drops as in the transmission/rearend. I use 140 wt. in all of my Farmalls.
Buddy

P B G wrote:Nope, looks like you have some water in there.

Mine was like this when I first got it, I dumped it, added some fresh gear lube along with seafoam, ran it around. Dumped it, and replaced.

Doesn't take much gear lube so this isn't too expensive to do. Remember to only fill it until it comes out the test plug on the side.

What kind of seafoam? The website has like 4 kinds.

I just use regular seafoam the fuel treatment stuff, it is marketed as a water treatment, and its what I tend to have around, so I use it for these sorts of things.

Its not needed, you could flush with the regular gear lube you'll be using. Just put some in, run it around a bit, dump, and you can even repeat on this a few times. You also don't need to fill it all the way during the flushes, you're just trying to remove as much of the moisture as possible before you fill it the last time.

I'd wager 95% of people who get water in their transmission just dump it add new, and skip the flush.

Most folks recommend kerosene and a 10-15min drive to flush the transmission. Due to the prohibitive cost of kerosene here, I use diesel fuel and less time. Seems to work. As for oil I use the 140W GL4 in the cubs as it is more "yellow" metal friendly due to the brass/bronze bushings for the reverse idler. I use the 80-90W GL5 for the finals as there are no brass/bronze parts in the finals. Caveat: Kerosene flush recommended for TRANSMISSION\FINAL DRIVES ONLY. NOT for engine flushing
('Course you knew that already).

Where can I get thus? Tractor supply says no such thing as 140w oil.

Been to 8 auto farm stores. No one says they make 140w GL4. What am I telling the
wrong that they are to freaking stupid to figure out? I'm in town now trying to buy oil that no one says exists.

You could try 85 - 140 wt.

Bigdog wrote:You could try 85 - 140 wt.

Thanks. I picked it up brought it home, flushed the thing with 2 gallons of diesel (which is how much 2 goo came out of it) and road around for 15 mins. Replace the with the new oil and pull a little over a gallon when the test hole started to drain.

I have found another problem. The clutch does not disengage. I have to kill the tractor put it in gear and start it to be able to move it lol

What does the clutch pedal feel like when you press it?

Do you feel the free travel then a hard stop? Or does the clutch feel like it disengages normally but the tractor keeps going?

Sometimes the clutch gets rusted to the flywheel, sometimes to the pressure plate, sometimes both. And that can sometimes be freed by pulling something heavy at high load and pushing on the clutch repeatedly, other times you can give the clutch a wack through an inspection cover. Otherwise splitting always works.

P B G wrote:What does the clutch pedal feel like when you press it?

Do you feel the free travel then a hard stop? Or does the clutch feel like it disengages normally but the tractor keeps going?

Sometimes the clutch gets rusted to the flywheel, sometimes to the pressure plate, sometimes both. And that can sometimes be freed by pulling something heavy at high load and pushing on the clutch repeatedly, other times you can give the clutch a wack through an inspection cover. Otherwise splitting always works.

It felt normal when I got it. It has gradually gotten worse. I can press the clutch and I can't get it in gear without killing the tractor.

Bigdog wrote:You could try 85 - 140 wt.

Yep, my bad--sorry that ended up a wild goose chase Song

I seem to recall that in some farmall lubrication schedules they spec a whole bunch of acceptable fluids. including gear lubricants and hy-trans etc.