Farmall Super A, AV, 1939 - 1954
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After sandblasting my '48 SA, I noticed, a few days later, evidence of seepage from the seals and gaskets as well as where the shims are. I plan to replace the seals and gaskets, but my current question is how are the shims sealed? There are no gaskets between them, so what is to keep them from seeping after reassembly?
When I removed the bearing retainer, there were 2 seals...Seal #48954D (as per the parts manual) along with what looks like a felt seal (not shown in the parts manual):
I remember from rebuilding my Cub's PTO, that the new seals were thinner than the original, and sometimes folks just stacked a new one in front of the old one. Is that what has happened here? Should I remove both and install the #48954D (actually a superceded number now)? Is there, indeed, a second felt-type seal that should be there?
Once again, thanks for any input.
Dale I only use one NAPA has them
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8th Va fest link viewtopic.php?f=8&t=81392&p=657790#p657790
Thanks! I am starting a list for my local NAPA store. Plan to get some filters for Bubba (the SA) and Bertha (my Cub) at the April filter sale!
Generally the shims will seal on their own, but if you want to be sure, put a very thin coat of Loc-tite on them as they're being assembled. Be sure to tighten the bolts right away.
Your pictured seal was built to last. The replacement will be flimsy and half of the material. I didn't double up the PTO oil seal on my mowing cub and got about 4 years out of it before it started seeping. Even doubled up, (if there's room), I bet two won't last as long as the original.
And I assume the original types are no longer available? Should I double seal it from the beginning? There is obviously plenty of room.
Dale - doubling up does not have the value that it first appears to. The outer seal will be running dry because the inner seal is working. By the time the inner seal wears enough to leak the outer seal will be worn out from running dry. Just inspect the shaft and make sure your seal is set to a depth where it will run on a smooth section of the shaft.
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
That certainly makes sense! And while I have your attention, is there a trick to pulling the bearing off the belt pulley housing? The manuals for the SA are quite lacking in details like the cub stuff...bummer. I hate to start with brute force if there is a better way.
ALso, I haven't tried removing the PTO housing yet, but wondered if there is any kind of problem/sequencing pulling it off regarding the shift lever? I know the cub manual said something about keeping the lever either engaged or disengaged (can't remember which).
8 posts • Page 1 of 1
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