Farmall Cub

I have been in a state of deep depression after almost finishing my super A I dead ended the hydralics and blew the hydralic pump and the camshaft gear broke.
My mental state is better now so I just want to get this thing done and running.
I have a new camshaft gear and wanted to know how to get the broken gear off without pulling the camshaft and puting the new one back on.




Thanks Bob

WOW
I never knew that could happen.
If it's similar and presses on as hard as mine did on my last cub it'll need to come out.

Sorry to hear this........I know you worked long and hard on it.

bob, i got your pm and would be happy to help you out. but the camshaft has to come out of the engine. that means removing the engine so you can invert it, removing the valve and oil pan covers, the rocker arms and push rods, and the front cover. then the cam can come out leaving the tappets in the engine. we'll need to clean the broken metal parts out of the block and look at the oil pump.

it could be done in chassis, but you'll have trouble with tappets falling out and the cleaning part. better to spend a couple hours and pop the motor.

i'll pm you with my number.

I've replaced the gears before and there is no need to remove the cam. You can drill and tap 3 3/8"s holes in the came gear and use a regular gear/wheel puller to remove it. Then when putting the new gear on, just go easy and tighten the bolt slowly to pull it back into place. I have actually replaced several this way in many of the lettered series, including my 45' A and 42' M. It seems many of them have chipped teeth and if they line up right, they can jump time. My A and M both had cam gears and governor gears with chipped teeth.


Also, just so there is no confusion, to pull the gear back on, I thread a bolt with a nut and washer on it, into the cam after the gear is started on the cam. I then hold the bolt head in place with one wrench and slowly turn the nut with another wrench, toward the cam and pull the gear onto the camshaft. This has always worked great for me. If you have any questions let me know. I had pictures of this at one time, but they were on my old computer that has since crapped out on me.

I just went out in the garage and looked for one of the old gears that I had removed this way and then I remembered my wife got mad about all the "broken junk" I was keeping around, so I had to throw everything away that wasn't good for anything anymore (her words not mine).

the A and super A cam gear is pressed on, and lacks a threaded hole or bolt in the camshaft. otherwise it would be possible to do it in chassis. i suppose one could drill and tap it, but its probably hardened.
in this case the engine is ready to remove as it sits after pulling a couple of misc assemblies off, so its not a big job

Yes, I do tap the center of the cam, it is very easy to do, taps really easy. After it's tapped, I either use a bolt as described or a stud. If I remember right I tap it to 7/16" coarse thread, your pilot hole is already in the cam and you just barely have to remove any material to tap it for 7/16 thread. I have done several this way and it is very easy.

Just don't do like some people and try to hammer the gear back onto the cam and break something or knock the plug out of the back of the engine.

I took a trip to Art's house this past satureday and in about two hours Art and I had that cam gear swapped out. Art also installed a new gasket in the oil pump. So the gear is fixed and all I have to do is bolt the front of the SA back to gather again. kinda like Humpdy Dumdy.

Thanks Art for all your help.

Bob

glad i could help. i found my spare a driveshaft, BTW. so i can align my clutch

That's great news! I can't wait to see and hear it run (again).

-Jim

spaceghost wrote:
I have been in a state of deep depression after almost finishing my super A I dead ended the hydralics and blew the hydralic pump and the camshaft gear broke.

Bob, I don't understand what you mean by "dead ended the hydraulics and blew..." Just how does one dead end the hydraulics. I want to know so I don't do that! Because if it can be done, I'll do it!!!

Did you have the pump mounted with the manifold blocked causing pressure that killed the pump, etc? Thanks in advance for the explaination.

Dale F

BDFinch wrote:

spaceghost wrote:
I have been in a state of deep depression after almost finishing my super A I dead ended the hydralics and blew the hydralic pump and the camshaft gear broke.

Bob, I don't understand what you mean by "dead ended the hydraulics and blew..." Just how does one dead end the hydraulics. I want to know so I don't do that! Because if it can be done, I'll do it!!!

Did you have the pump mounted with the manifold blocked causing pressure that killed the pump, etc? Thanks in advance for the explaination.

Dale F

I have an IH 1000 loader that I am going to put on the SA. So when I bolted the hydraulic manifold to the touch control I installed the bypass block for the loader (DUMMY). The bypass block rerouted hydraulic fluid (there was also a plug in one of the fittings of the bypass block) and it had no place to go because the hoses for the loader were not installed. Hence the hydraulic fluid dead ended and the hydraulic pump build up too much pressure and blew out the side of the pump. At the same time the pump became very hard to turn (because of the built up pusher) and this broke the teeth on the cam gear.

If my theory needs correcting please do so.

Well, since I don't own a loader (yet!) at least that is ONE problem I won't face/cause!!! Thanks for the clarification.

Dale F

Wow, after reading this post, I did not know you can "dead ended the hydraulics". But further, clarification helped!!! Spaceghost I am happy your SuperA is back running with the help of Artc. I just completed a overhaul on my SuperA and like DaleF(BDFinch) I did not want to compromise my SuperA with something I did that could have been avoided.
Pabst