Farmall Cub

My touch control unit will not lift as much as it used to and I wanted to make the pressure test in the IH manual. It says to install the pressure gauge in place of the rear pipe plug (1/4 inch) in the manifold rear flange. But I looked at the manifold and don't see a pipe plug, can someone tell me where it is?
Gerry

You will have to take the plug out, it is where the manifold is bolted to the T/C block
Boss

It's the plug in line with the smaller diameter line in this picture from TM Tractor's site:

On the SA, I guess it is the one inline with the small tube also, which is toward the rear like the manual says. These have allen head plugs, I was looking for a regular pipe plug.
Gerry

Also expect them to be VERY tight.

Gerry:

to what John said...

You will probably need the proper hex head socket to take it out. Allen keys just don't cut it

I did the test procedure and it passed so I guess it's working as intended, maybe I'm just trying to lift to much. Right, the plug was tough to get out, I finally put some heat on it with a small torch and some PB. I used a hydraulic gauge and it max pressure was 1100 psi on both cylinders. I used two SA wheel weights lifted from the rear rockshaft.
The only thing I would like to fix is a slow leak from near the leather boots. I have seen a post before but can't find it now about doing this without removing the unit from the tractor. Has anyone done this?
Rudi, thanks for the manual and thanks to everyone for the help.
Gerry

It will have to be removed to put the seals in as the valves slide out the head side
Boss

Well, I took it apart today for a rebuild and had a few problems. The worst is a broken control valve pin (looks like it has been broken for a long time) 41A in the parts diagram, 354 358 R1 which is discontinued according to my local IH. I ordered the rebuild kit but still need the pin. Does anyone have an extra?
Gerry

Assuming that is similar to the one in cubs, it is an off the shelf and should be available at most hardware and auto parts stores. Or use a grade 8 bolt and lock nut.

That is my fallback plan but I'd like to find an original. For the SA, it's special in that it has a reduced diameter in the middle for a setscrew to hold in (along with a cotter pin) and it is very hard steel, not mild steel. A grade 8 might have to work if I can't find the real pin.
Gerry

with that groove, an aftermarket pin would not work, they are surface hardened, so that leaves the grade 8 bolt.

I'm putting my SA touch control back together and was wondering if anyone knows the torque spec for the piston connecting rod. For the SA, is there a list of torque specs, I haven't been able to find anything. I saw in the Cub BOK rebuild, the torque was 75 ft-lbs, maybe the same for the SA.
Gerry