Farmall Super A, AV, 1939 - 1954
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I assume you have looked at the drawing in the parts catalog. If so, you can see that the original has 4 holes on each side, actually 3 holes and one slot with a countersink at the end of the slot. It mounts on the tractor with the slot at the forwardmost drawbar/implement stud and one of the other holes bolted at the hole directly above the stud. You need the quick-attach slot or you can't get it over the studs. The other 2 holes in the upright of the substitute drawbar are used to attach it to the older style drop housings of a Farmall A. So if you are just making it for your Super A, you don't need to be concerned about the third and fourth hole in each upright.
The horizontal part of the substitute drawbar has a pair of holes, centered for attaching the pivot axle mounting bracket. There is an additional hole or two so the pivot axle mounting bracket can be offset to the right. I don't remember if there are 2 more holes or if one of the first two is reused with a third hole. Note the lifting arms assembly has 2 extra holes for bolting the lifting bracket off to one side. Measure how much offset that bracket can take and drill the extra hole(s) in the substitute drawbar with the same offset. That will let you mid-mount the blade either centered or offset to the right.
I hope that description made sense. If not, ask questions!
Jim, all I have is a copy from Rudi of the owners manual with photos that are not very clear on the substitute drawbar mounting. Where can I find a parts manual/catalog? I had thought to only bolt the vertical pieces with a single bolt each side to the drawbar bracket...the end with the four(?) 1/2" bolt holes, not the drilled post end. Do you think it needs more? The stud above the lower front stud has the countersunk "slot" for mounting and I was going to avoid that. Let me know what you think and if you have a copy of that drawing you mention. Thanks!
Go to the CaseIH site and look at their "parts store".
Click on "look up parts by equipment".
Then enter "grader blade" in the search for model field.
Select 60 from that list.
Click on "G-5" (third item in the list).
Expand the drawing as much as possible then scroll it around so you can see item 1.
You need 2 bolts on each end so it won't rotate.
Thank you SO much, Jim. That was what I had been looking for! I just hope the material I have now will work. I had the vertical parts shorter for a single hole...I'll have to check it out and see if I have enough stock. But at least now I know what it is supposed to look like.
I do have a question, though. On the vertical part of item 1, as you said it has 4 holes, one of which is a slot to slide onto a stud. But I am confused as to which holes and which studs I need to use. The front of the final has 3 studs: the front 2 are 5" one above the other, in line. The lower 2 are 5 " one in front of the othe, also in line. If I need to use two bolts for each end (& I do understand that) where do they go on item 1?
Note, I actually have just holes, not studs in all the forward holes, so would be using tapered bolts rather then nuts...is this OK?
As I recall, when a Super A came out of the factory it had studs in the 2 holes where the drawbar attaches and the 2 holes at the same level on the front of the drop housing. The upper holes both front and back were left open for a bolt. So the total count on each side was 4 studs and 2 open holes for bolts. You should be able to use a bolt in place of any missing stud. Just be sure to use countersunk heads with any countersunk holes and plain heads with plain holes. Since you have bolts rather than studs, you can just drill holes in your home-made drawbar and not have to cut slots.
The substitute drawbar attaches to the 2 studs/holes that are directly above/below each other. There are four holes/slots in each side of the substitute drawbar. If you count from the bottom up, I believe that holes 1/3 are used on a Super A and holes 2/4 are used on an A.
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