Helicoil-ing implement mounting hole on Super A bellhousing

[Super A]

Old Ugly, my latest Super A, has a semi-stripped out implement mounting hole on the bellhousing, I am guessing from someone running a fertilizer attachment for a long time with loose bolts. I've never used a helicoil, but am familiar with them and have read the how-to article on the forum. Has anyone had to actually repair one of these holes on a Super A-140? Only thing I am worried about is finding a hand-held drill with enough OOMPH to drill the hole out. I have access to a small, "tabletop" drillpress and have gone so far as to consider removing the gas tank, and "straddling" the bellhousing with it to drill the hole, but I don't think the work table on the drillpress is deep enough.

Ideas or suggestions are very much welcome!

Al

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

check a local tool rental place the Hole Hawg type drills are real good for that type work. The long handle makes control a lot easier. I do not know if it is mentioned in the how to, but do NOT use oil when drilling cast iron. You can do it with a smaller drill, it just requires going slower and being more careful.



I have one of these with a 5/8 chuck which works quite well for this.
http://www.harborfreight.com/compact-2- ... 97622.html

[Dale Shaw]

Al, I have had great luck with this. It is Permatex Thread repair kit, part # 765-1248. I get it at NAPA for $13.50

I have repaired final drive bolt holes, carb inlet threads, anywhere the bolt is loose and sloppy. It has held up great in both the finals and carbs.

It withstands chemicals and is good up to 128ft lb of torque.

Make sure you use a clean new bolt, clean the threads in the hole real well, then make sure you use plenty of the release agent on the bolt.

It says wait 5 min before removing bolt, I like to let it sit a couple hours.

Attachments

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[Boss Hog]

Al any 1/2 in drill will do the job , make sure it has a handle on the side so it does not grab and spin out of yout hand, the cast is EZ to drill into
Get the right size bit
Boss

[Bob McCarty]

I've used this type of solid insert several times with good results. It takes a standard drill and tap. Picture is from McMaster-Carr

Bob

[Rudi]

Al:

As in my Helicoiling Ellie's Rear Final, I found this drill to be the cat's meow when it comes to heli-coiling. Variable speeds are really useful. You should be able to find one of these at a yard sale, flea market and such.

[Dale Finch]

I HeliCoiled a final bolt hole on my SA, and I must say, it would have been easier to remove the final to do it!!! I lay on the concrete under the tractor, using a drill with the side handle (because that sucker DOES grab frequently!). I did have the mechanic start it for me, because I couldn't get the bit to start cutting without jamming at first. After he started it, with me keeping it squared up, I took over. It was fairly slow going, but doable. You do need to use a cutting oil...I didn't have any so just used PB Blaster. After the drilling, everything else was VERY easy...threadlocker was used when inserting the coil.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Rudi, I have a twin to that drill,except mine does not have a toggle switch on the handle.

[Rudi]

I remember. Mine is a Mastercraft a house brand from a major supplier but I can't remember who it is. Is it a Skil, B&D or ????? I love it, it really is one heck of a drill Lots of torque and variable speed. The toggle is just for forward/reverse.