Farmall Super A, AV, 1939 - 1954
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I imagine this isnt normal. It appears as though everything is exposed! Am I wrong? Pictured is the shaft into the gear box. Im more concerned about the gear box having a gaping hole.
Additionally, I'm having one heck of a time trying to get this A to crank over with the hand crank. Ive replaced the oil, spark plugs, spark plug wires, have a decent spark... Wondering what else is up? Ive determined that the starter is fried since I've tried over and over again (troubleshooting with a voltmeter).
The hole is in the torque tube aka clutch housing. The big one provides access for adjusting the clutch linkage. Other one I am not sure of the purpose but both are supposed to be that way.
White Demo Super A Restoration Updates
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I thought the same thing, they are supposed to be exposed. Now, generally what I do with the hand-crank is leave the button off, then turn the engine once or twice to pull some fuel in and charge the magneto, then flip the button and crank it, it typically starts right up.
So you're getting a spark when the engine turns? If that's the case then it must be a fuel delivery issue.
Reference the exposed comment: Great. I was getting worried since I'm seeing a lot of abuse and cut-corners on this tractor. Im really unsure if this thing is 6 or 12 volts. The starter looks original (Delco Remy) and that'd mean 6 volts but the generator (which also looks original but forget the name) clearly states 12 volts. Will have to post photos later. It has a voltage regulator under the fuel tank which looks well-done but I doubt is stock. Getting a little discouraged since I've dropped about 10 hours into it so far and havent gotten anywhere.
I was thinking that it cant be a fuel delivery problem since I'm bypassing that by giving it a shot of ether into the carb. I shot ether into the cylinders too while changing the spark plugs.
I would see if you can just make everything 6 volt or 12 volt to eliminate any possible incompatibilities. If you are unsure about what the status is with the ignition and electrical components, chances are that is where the problem lies.
Since the generator states 12 volts - 12 volt electrical system. Starter, either 6 or 12 volts, not a problem, either will work with a 12 volt system.
Your battery voltage is?
Delco Remy made 6 and 12 volt starters.
Conducted compression tests?
I have an excuse. CRS.
Im definitely looking for compatibility and would like to make it a 12 volt if I can (my Cub is 6v which makes it a little bit of a inconvenience).
I tested the starter initially at 6v since I knew from looking on the forum that the stock form was also 6v. When I couldnt make that work, I figured it couldnt hurt to bump it with a 12v battery. Both 12v and 6v and the same result: nothing. Just a spark (bypassed the starter and went straight from the batteries with jumper cables). The whole reverse polarity thing has me scratching my head. On the printout I found, it states that its a positive ground. To me, this seems like a sin. Maybe somebody has something to add on that. Im on my way over to the barn now so I'll be sure to post up some photos.
I thought a 6v starter would blow up with 12v of cranking (hence why I bumped it just to see if it would come alive). Wondering what the next step is there.
I havent done a compression test but did pour a drip of Seafoam in each cylinder last week and slowly cranked it over by hand a few times just to get some sort of lubricant in there while it sat through the work week. In turning the crank with the plugs in vs open cylinders, there is good resistance so even though I dont know specifically what the numbers are yet, I'm fairly sure it has good enough compression to start.
Here is a previous post on 6 volt starters operating on a 12 volt electrical system.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Great! Glad to have read that! Posting up photos now. Having issues with Photobucket.
Starter (I just moved the band clamp over before the photo):
Coil/distributer with new spark plugs and wires:
Generator (matching brand to starter...original?):
Is that beat up bolt and nut on the top of the starter the battery cable connection?
All electrical connections, including grounds, need to be cleaned up. The starter will require 150 or more amps to function. Starter and generator, rebuild yourself or take to rebuilder.
First thing I do after tractor purchase is to pressure spray, clean up, the entire tractor.
I would remove the valve cover. Check for bent push rods and slowly crank engine over by hand to see if all valves were functioning. Valves OK, conduct the compression test. Hand cranking the engine, readings will be quite a bit lower than cranking engine with starter. This will provide some indication of engine's ability to run.
I have an excuse. CRS.
I would bet that your starter is in bad shape inside!---If you are up to it,---take the starter apart and check all the connections,--brushes,--armature ,etc and clean up , replace if needed,---bearings could be quite worn too! thanks; sonny
Yeah, I'll be breaking down the starter and doing just that. From what I can tell, the bendix is near frozen and the shaft doesnt move at all. Hoping to get some cranking power ASAP. My right shoulder will thank me.
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