Farmall Super A, AV, 1939 - 1954
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Okay, so I put my Super A back together. When I go to start it, it stays running for a maximum of like 3 seconds then just stops. Then It won't start up again for a few minutes. If I spray starting fluid into the intake it will do the same thing. I also noticed at the carb there is a fuel leak where the rubber hose meets the carb. I cleaned the carb before I installed it so there shouldn't be anything in there. Although I have a feeling there is a blockage somewhere and its not letting enough fuel through to keep it running. I assume its running until it eats up the starting fluid/whatever fuel is in the carb.
Other than that the tractor sounded amazing in the few seconds it was running. Have a new head with new valves cold gapped at .016 (I haven't been able to hot gap it yet). New plugs (Champion D21s) and this time SAE-20 instead of -30 oil because 30 is just too damn thick in this cold.
Also, on another note, I had a brain fart and mixed my coolant as 1/3 water and 2/3 coolant. Is that bad and should I drain it then remix it 50/50 or can I leave it? At least I won't have to worry about it freezing
Anti freeze tester, test and check the results to see if anti freeze reading is below the lowest expected temperature for your area. I would flush the cooling system next summer then install a 50/50 mix.
Fuel starvation. Start checking for fuel flow at the carburetor, then work back to the fuel tank.
Normally if the problem is low fuel flow, tractor engine off for a while, the tractor will run for a minute or two before the starvation issue begins.
Had a similar problem with an H. The rubber fuel line was the problem. Great fuel flow when disconnected from carb. Reconnect, tractor would run great for a minute, then die.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Will test the fuel line issue today. Last night I n ever let it sit for more than 1-2 minutes before trying to start it. Possibly today with the time it sat enough fuel worked its way into the carb, it might run for more than 3 seconds.
And according to the chart on the back of the coolant bottle (Traveller) I will be protected up to -62*F with a 2/3 mix haha
Okay so I got it to start but now its hunting real bad. I was tinkering with the arm and link to the carburetor, the one that crosses the front of the tractor to the governor. I did what my I&T manual said and set the throttle in wide open (Im assuming thats all the way forward aka max throttle or then I did this wrong) and adjusted the clevis "...until proper register is obtained" so the pin would just slide in freely. After I did that I got it to start but now the throttle is wacky. I set it all the way down (lever towards the seat) past the teeth on the throttle lever plate and it sounds like it did pre-teardown when I would have it at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. I haven't even tried full throttle, I don't want to break anything.
Could this have something to do with adjusting the speed screw and spring in the governor? I haven't touched that at all.
Oh and if it means anything, as soon as I close the choke it dies.
Okay so I read a little farther into the manual and it said I can make it stop doing that by adjusting a bumper screw on the governor. So could this just be a matter of me tinkering with the clevis and bumper to get it to work just right?
The bumper screw on the governor is what cured my hunting problem.
Know Your Cub, And Your Cub Will Know You.
I would assume it to be a starvation problem. Need to get real good flow to the carb not just a pencil lead stream. Running with choke open is starvation. You may have something out of adjustment in carb, or seat is sticking.
Guiena, 1951 Farmall Cub; Jumping Willy, 1949 Farmall Cub.
Perhaps I am not understanding the terminology here.
Choke closed = choke plate on carburetor covers the intake and blocks off a majority of the airflow into the carb. Used for cold starting.
Choke open = choke plate on carburetor is not covering the intake. Air flows freely into the carb. Position used for warm engine and working.
After a minute or two of running, the engine should run fine with the choke completely open. If you must keep it partially or fully closed, then there is an issue.
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH Model 15 Tiller
Yes, closed as in the butterfly valve is shut, thus restricting airflow. (Thats what I meant, anyway haha) Although I currently have my choke lever disconnected so I was turning it by hand on the carb. So i might be confusing closed thinking I really opened it, but I don't think so. The point is that the engine wasn't cold when I did play with it and it has never shut off like that, especially since it wasn't at low idle.
Okay so, I adjusted the bumper screw, not too far in. The hunting seems to stop. In the video towards the end I turn the choke with my hand on the carb (equivalent of pushing the choke rod all the way in, to clarify) And it smooths out. Then I gave it a little throttle and it quit.
Thoughts? Maybe just wasn't warm enough for more throttle yet? It was a cold start.
It is definitely starving for fuel. Have you taken off the fuel line at the carb to see how well the fuel flows to that point? If the flow is good to the carb, pull the carb apart again. If not, I have seen blockage in the fuel bowl on two of my SAV's. Pull the bowl, remove the shut off, and clean the bowl assembly well. It will hold contamination and restrict fuel flow. If you are running any rubber fuel line, take it off and check for blockage there.
I dont have a bowl below gas tank. PO took it off and added a fuel filter within the line with a shut off valve on the carb. Fuel flow to the carb is excellent in any case, I have no issue with it coming out when I remove the line.
So, if I have to pull the carb, what should I be looking for? I have never taken apart a carburetor and my knowledge of the parts within is very limited. I could ask a buddy of mine to look at it and lend assistance, of course hes used to car carburetors, mostly GM.
He won't have a problem with the carburetor.
Try a container of fuel system cleaner in the gasoline. Then, not knowing which carburetor you have, remove the plug on the side or the main jet to check for fuel flow through the carburetor.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Take pictures as you take it apart. They are very simple. Be careful to not ruin the carb gasket when you split it. The toughest part can be removing the pin holding the float in place. you want to do this so you can remove the needle valve and blow that out clean. Also, remove all the fuel mixtures screws however to put them back in as they came out, I count the number of turns to tighten the mixture screws all the way in, write it down, then disable. I clean everything with brake clean with the plastic tube on the nozzle. blow everything out with compressed air when you are done.
I took the carb apart and did a busch league cleaning. Blew some air into it, and scraped out some gunk. I took the tractor out of the garage the next day and got it down my driveway and then on my way back up it started to sputter and lose power and then quit. I'd wait 10 seconds or so and it would fire back up and I'd get it another 20 feet and I'd had to repeat the process until I got into the garage.
Is it definitely safe to say I have a fuel issue? haha
I'll plan on doing 'the works' with the carb next time around. Take it apart, get a rebuild kit, soak it, ect... the whole nine yards.
The same car guy I mentioned earlier (Mark is his name) is refurbishing the hood for a 42 John Deere LA for another buddy of his. He told me that the guy that owns the LA just rebuilt a Zenith carb for a Farmall. And since he owes Mark for doing his LAs hood, Mark will get in touch with this other guy to take a look at my carb.
Boy, it sure helps to know people.
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