Well My A is Home Now - 2 more problems - Even more Video

[CPIII]

We went to Shiner this weekend and brought my A back. While loading it I noticed a few more issues I need help with.
1. Looks like it has a broken ear and is leaking oil at the fracture. So I guess I will use the extra engine block and just transfer everything over. I have never rebuilt an engine before and would need a lot of help. How difficult would it be to just transfer the parts from the running engine? Or should I just go ahead a get a new set of sleeves and pistons?
2. Throttle not changing. It seems the governor is stuck. I can get it to change a bit but it takes a lot of moving the throttle lever back and forth to finally get it to change. Also when I try to go to low throttle sometimes the control rod will contact the fan blades.

Other than that the engine seems very strong and starts very easily. So I am very bummed about having to swap blocks.

First Run - Sorry I got sort of excited.......

[Tezell]

It runs good! I am sure there are lots of suggestions on what you should do coming.

It is a shame to have to mess with the engine on that thing. It humes.

I know nothing about an A but on a Cub throttle it tends to get stiff when left for a long time. I just spray some Croil on the spring area and govenor shaft and tap it a little. Most of the time it frees right up.

Good luck!
Keep us posted.

[CPIII]

Thanks for the reply! I will try lubricating the output shaft of the governor ....sounds like a a good thing to try.
Yep it just killed me to see the oil coming out of the repaired area of the engine ear. I was hoping it was a good repair and I would just leave it be.......but doesn't look like I can now.

[Super A]

Since it runs good, you might be able to do a repair to at least stop the leaking and avoid replacing the block. Chances are it's been that way a long time.

Al

[Matt Kirsch]

The carburetor and governor could also be out of time. Adjustment is the same as it is on a Cub.

The fact that the governor rod is hitting the fan proves this out to a degree. You are jamming it past its normal range of motion in a futile attempt to get it to idle down.

[CPIII]

Thanks for the reply Al and Matt!
I am hoping to figure something out so that I can avoid removing the engine. I think I will clean the area up a bit and try to figure out where the majority of the oil is coming from......if it turns out the repaired area is cracked I will have no choice.
I will go through the adjustment procedure and see if that helps along with a good amount of lubrication. Hopefully it will start working correctly after that......The max RPM for a C113 is 1400 correct? Also I only have a contact tachometer......does anyone know a good place to get a reading? On my cub I just put it on the PTO output shaft. I can do the same here I guess and just multiply by the PTO gear ratio which should be around 2.587:1...correct?

[Jim Becker]

I can do the same here I guess and just multiply by the PTO gear ratio which should be around 2.587:1...correct?

Yes. 17 teeth drive 44 teeth. The answer is 541 rpm on the PTO.

[CPIII]

Thanks Jim....

[CPIII]

Ok I think I did the sync adjustment right....I took videos of stopped and running...still can't change engine speed.

Stopped
http://youtu.be/R_7Z_OIQA14

Running
http://youtu.be/Gm6OyzqscVM

[CPIII]

Well I think I solved the oil leak problem....when I took a closer look I noticed the oil was leaking from the threads of a small plug in the same area as the repair. I removed the plug and put Teflon tape on it...hopefully that will solve the leaking problem and i won't have to go into the engine. Does anyone know what this plug is for?

Oil Leak.JPG (162.13 KiB) Viewed 428 times

[SONNY]

If oil comes from it, then it must be an oil galley drain.
The gov. on my A dont work much either, and the one on my SA dont work at all!!---just locks up when engine is running! thanks; sonny

[Cub-Bud]

I worked on an A a few years ago with the same issues with governor/throttle. After adjusting the linkage by the book, the problem didn't go away. So, I removed the governor housing and found the governor thrust ball bearing was bad. After replacing it, the throttle response was great

Here is a link to the page from Rudi's manuals:

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/A%20-%20B/TC-26E%20Parts%20Catalog/Page%2032.jpg

Item #25 is the part I had to replace. The governor housing can be removed without disturbing the timing.

[Super A]

I worked on an A a few years ago with the same issues with governor/throttle. After adjusting the linkage by the book, the problem didn't go away. So, I removed the governor housing and fonund the governor thrust ball bearing was bad. After replacing it, the throttle response was great

Here is a link to the page from Rudi's manuals:

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/A%20-%20B/TC-26E%20Parts%20Catalog/Page%2032.jpg

Item #25 is the part I had to replace. The governor housing can be removed without disturbing the timing.

When that bearing goes, it can be "interesting!" You can go from idle to WIDE OPEN very quickly!

[Matt Kirsch]

While you're in there, replace the governor spring too.

Made that mistake before. The spring was broken, so it wouldn't idle up. Took the governor off, replaced the spring.

Not one week later the thrust bearing grenaded, so it wouldn't idle DOWN. Had to take the governor off AGAIN.

It's not a particularly difficult job, but you need six different configurations of 9/16" (IIRC) wrenches to get at the six bolts.

[CPIII]

The thrust bearing looks visibly OK....how do they fail normally? do they fly apart or do the ball bearings fail to roll???