Access to diff/rear transmission bearings.

Farmall Super A, AV, 100, 130, & 140 1939 - 1973

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havoc1482
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Access to diff/rear transmission bearings.

Postby havoc1482 » Thu Aug 07, 2014 6:51 pm

Is is possible to get access to those bearings by removing the PTO/Belt Pulley? Or am I going to have to split the tractor? Some sort of bearing around the left final drive area and/or the differential is making bad noise and I want to get a look in there and possible replace.
Mike
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havoc1482
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Re: Access to diff/rear transmission bearings.

Postby havoc1482 » Sun Aug 10, 2014 2:11 pm

Also, follow up question. What manual (if it even exists) gives me a breakdown on the transmission or at least details in how to repair it? I'm looking at Binder Books, but I don't know which to get.
Mike
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Matt Kirsch
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Re: Access to diff/rear transmission bearings.

Postby Matt Kirsch » Mon Aug 11, 2014 3:53 pm

You can probably SEE them by removing the PTO/pulley, but as far as removing and replacing, it's going to be multiple splits...

It will require splitting the rear end from the torque tube, then splitting each final from the rear end, then splitting the right-hand axle extension from the transmission/differential housing.

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havoc1482
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Re: Access to diff/rear transmission bearings.

Postby havoc1482 » Mon Aug 11, 2014 6:30 pm

Okay, thanks, I plan on taking the left final off to diagnose why the brake pedal doesn't move. I was wondering if I should go the full nine yards.

What about the manual??
Mike
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I bleed Black & Gold

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havoc1482
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Location: Granville, MA

Re: Access to diff/rear transmission bearings.

Postby havoc1482 » Mon Aug 11, 2014 7:57 pm

Also, I have another question: Any good tips for splitting a tractor? I do not have a gantry or engine dolly. I know some people will do that. I know I could find a way to keep the tractor up, I just don't know how I'd roll it. Car dollies?
Mike
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Dale Finch
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Re: Access to diff/rear transmission bearings.

Postby Dale Finch » Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:06 pm

I was looking for the rest of a post I made a couple years ago, but couldn't find it. This is the first part of removing the final on my SA, and maybe it will help you. It really is not a bad job, IF you have an engine hoist and a "jackstand" (find several posts about them in the How To section). As in ANY splitting, make sure you wedge the front axle so you don't have the tractor fall over on you!!
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=170&t=64496&hilit=+sa+final

This is a post I made for the Cub, which might help some since they are so similar.
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=142&t=78436

I strongly recommend that if you take the left final off, that you replace all the seals while you have it off, and don't forget the differential seal (still on the tractor). If you need any help or have questions, just ask! Also, I have photos of just about anything you can do to rebuild a SA, so holler if you need any! :D

Good luck!

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havoc1482
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Location: Granville, MA

Re: Access to diff/rear transmission bearings.

Postby havoc1482 » Tue Aug 12, 2014 12:28 am

Thanks Dale! So I guess this is a pretty straight forward process. I have a friend with an engine dolly, maybe I can take it off his hands for a few days :) I'll let you know if I run into any head scratchers!
Mike
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I bleed Black & Gold

IH Collectors Club New England (Chapter 18)

Western Mass. (The 413)

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Dale Finch
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'55 Cub "Ben"
'55 Cub "Bailey"
'56 Cub "Boris"
'48 Super A "Bubba"
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NC, Chapel Hill

Re: Access to diff/rear transmission bearings.

Postby Dale Finch » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:14 am

As for the "jackstand" I mentioned, here are a couple links to one style, which looks great, especially if you have the know-how and equipment to do it:
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=144&t=60737
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=144&t=60521
Unfortunately, all I have are the basic tools, so this version was the easiest for me. The hardest part was getting the holes drilled for the implement pad bolts. Note, make sure you have the two bolt holes high enough above the jack so you can get a socket on it to install the bolts! I have to use a box wrench on my lower one, which is a bit of a pain!!
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=144&t=22132
I completely removed the swivel portion of the jack, and drilled holes so I could bolt the jack directly to the vertical steel plate with 4 bolts. This is the style you will now see at a lot of the cubfests. If you also have a cub, you can drill mounting holes for both the SA as well as the cub (they have different spacing). I plan to drill two more holes on the two jackstands I have (diagonally opposite each other), so I can use both at once on one tractor - one on each side to provide more stability.

Have fun!


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