Weeping Headgasket on rebuild

[Bossman429]

Farmall Model A:

So I finally got the jet I needed for the carb, put it together and she fired right up! Very happy about that

So I filled up the cooling system and let her run for awhile.... she ran great, no smoke, idled great etc. I noticed however there is a very slight weep of coolant between the head/block. I took the valve cover off, removed the rocker assembly and re-tightened the head nuts. That seemed to help but it was still weeping a tad. Figured maybe just give it another 5 ft/lbs all around...but it still weeps just a very slight amount.

Couple questions: Was there any sort of copper sealant I was supposed to put on the head gasket prior to assembling?

I have the head nuts tqed to 85 ft/lbs now. Should I go more to see if it helps? Or should I remove the head, and see what the gasket looks like.

I don't recall there being any lock washers on those nuts... should there have been?

Its a brand new head gasket, im wondering if maybe a few heat cycles will help it seal up?

There isn't any way coolant can be getting into the oil is there? Id imagine anything that weeps into the cylinder will be burned right off. The engine is running great and again, no smoke (blue black or white).

[havoc1482]

Headbolt torque should only be at 80. IH updated it, any manuals that say less are wrong.

Couple things to keep in mind:

You should coat both sides of the head gasket with copper sealer prior to installation.

Headbolt torque is 80 and should be retorqued after you run the engine. The heat will expand the head bolts and you need to retorque to pickup the slack it makes. Same can be said for the valve gap

No, there are no lock washers.

Check to make sure the head isn't warped or cracked either.

[Bossman429]

Well I did the re torque thing. But that didn't seem to work. I guess not putting on the copper sealant was a step I missed

I'll pull the head, coat the gasket and try again

I don't think the head is warped but I'll check it while I have it off.

[CPIII]

I am just finishing up the assembly on my C113 after swapping blocks. I used Aviation Form-A-Gasket to coat my head gasket. It was recommended by several people and it seems to do a pretty good job so far. I will let you know how it works when I fire it up in a couple of weeks.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80019-Av ... roduct_top

[Eugene]

Check the cylinder sleeves to see if one is raised above the top of the engine.

Trial fitting. Lay the new, dry, head gasket in position on top of the block, then on the head. You are looking for a mismatch between the coolant holes and the head gasket.

[Bossman429]

Will do, new head gasket is on order, hoping to do this over the weekend if it gets here by then

[havoc1482]

Also, did you make sure the gasket you have isn't for an engine with a waterpump? The coolant holes differ between pressure and thermopsiphon systems. Just a thought.

I replaced the head on my Super A and used Permatex Copper gasket spray. Haven't had any issues and that was almost a year ago

[Bossman429]

I didn't know any A's had water pumps

I'll make sure before installing the new one

[Matt Kirsch]

No As were manufactured with water pumps, but the C113 engine from the A was updated and modified over the years into the C123, which had a water pump in later versions. Some parts suppliers don't know there's a difference and will give you a head gasket for a C123 with a water pump.

[havoc1482]

No As were manufactured with water pumps, but the C113 engine from the A was updated and modified over the years into the C123, which had a water pump in later versions. Some parts suppliers don't know there's a difference and will give you a head gasket for a C123 with a water pump.

This. When I did the head on my Super A I had to make sure I didn't get the wrong headgasket. Most of the time the waterpump gaskets are more expensive, for reasons that I don't understand.