What started out as a simple oil change to winter weight oil became a hydraulic pump rebuild.
Upon draining the oil something didn't look right. Color and consistency was "off" for only 1 year old oil with probably 10 hours or less on it. Not milky but just didn't seem right. I figured hydraulic fluid was mixed in. Did not check oil level at the petcocks before draining as I had no reason to suspect anything since hydraulics were functioning properly. The hydraulic fluid was a little lower than where I remember it being when I topped it off last year. So I decided to inspect/rebuild hydraulic pump.
Upon disassembly I found this where the pump mates the engine block. Some milky oil on the "shelf" just inside the block. I was surprised to see this since the oil drained did not appear milky and coolant level has not changed.
I tracked down all the required parts to rebuild the Pesco pump and dove into my first pump rebuild on either a SA or Cub. Pretty straight forward. Slight amount of wear at the shaft/seal interface point.
New shaft seal was thinner than the one removed so installing it flush with the housing kept the lip off the worn area on the shaft.
Upon reassembly of the pump and tubes, I think I found a problem. I think the gasket between the Touch Control and the manifold/tubes was backwards. I had left the old one in place and it didn't look right. The large hole was over the small hole and the small hole was over the large hole on the Touch Control mating surface. I'm assuming this may create some type of flow restriction or back pressure?
Question: The large tube flows fluid from the pump to the Touch Control and the small tube flows fluid from the Touch Control to the pump?
Question: When the gasket goes in, the large hole in the gasket goes over the large hole and the small hole in the gasket goes over the small hole on the Touch Control mating surface?
When I tried the new gasket the way the way the old one was, the bolt holes wouldn't quite line up.
Question: If the gasket was in wrong constricting flow on the larger tube, could that force fluid past the shaft seal into the engine? Or cause some other problem(s)?
I did reinstall the gasket with hole sizes matching because it made more sense to me. Hopefully that's correct. Changed the strainer too. The system appears to be functioning properly. I will keep a closer eye on both the engine oil and Touch Control fluid for changes in level.
Chuck
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1953 SA Hydraulic Pump rebuild observations and question(s)
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1953 SA Hydraulic Pump rebuild observations and question(s)
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Re: 1953 SA Hydraulic Pump rebuild observations and question
Actually, the larger tube is the suction side (supply) to the pump, so the gasket installed backward would not have caused your seal failure. At any rate, I think you re-installed it correctly. Don't over think the seal failure, it's an old tractor.
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Re: 1953 SA Hydraulic Pump rebuild observations and question
One of my cubs has an old style pump with the seal rather than o'ring. The seal failed on it several years ago, and like you, I found that the new one was thinner than the original so it could be seated so it ran in a different place on the shaft. Anytime I replace a seal or o-ring that is on a rotating shaft I like to smooth up where it runs, or if it is running in a different place, there also to make sure it is smooth with no rough spots. I used to do that with strips of fine emery cloth, but now prefer using one of these abrasive buffs in my Dremel. Their lives are pretty short, but they sure do a great job.Gary Dotson wrote:........ Don't over think the seal failure, it's an old tractor.
One note, unless you happen to like replacing that seal, don't get i a hurry and forget to refill the touch control before you start it. Don't ask why I mention that. In my defense, I was doing other things in addition to the pump and trying to get ready for Cubarama the next morning. At least that sounded like a good excuse to me.
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Re: 1953 SA Hydraulic Pump rebuild observations and question
Thank you for the comments, gentlemen.
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