Gas Grade

Farmall Super A, AV, 100, 130, & 140 1939 - 1973

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rileybreed
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Gas Grade

Postby rileybreed » Fri May 29, 2015 2:18 pm

Just joined this site, and since this is my first post, I was not able to search prior so I apologize if this has been answered before.
In my atv's, mowers and other power equipment, I found that using 91 octane gas (Non-Ethanol) works better as there is less tendency to attract moisture.
I just got a 1959 Farmall 140 and it was running great for about an hour and then lost power. Any strain on the engine (like starting in first) almost makes it stall. Now, before I drain the gas, clean the lines and carb, could it be the higher octane gas?
Do I need some sort of lead substitute?

Also after this post, this will allow me to see the manuals which may help a lot too.

Another note: Before it was delivered to me, the shipping company boosted it with a 12 volt battery pack. I changed out the fried starter (they cranked it over in -40 weather until it stopped cranking), switch and voltage regulator, so I also wonder if it's the coil?

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Super A
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Re: Gas Grade

Postby Super A » Fri May 29, 2015 8:53 pm

I run the cheapest gas I can find. I've never had any issues with ethanol either. I like to put a little Seafoam in the gas in the fall, but usually I forget.,.,,

I'd suggest a full tune-up before you do anything else.

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Re: Gas Grade

Postby havoc1482 » Fri May 29, 2015 11:12 pm

What Al said. I run cheap gas too, no lead substitute needed. It will only attract much moisture if the tank sits at less that full for a long time. Seafoam is a great additive too.

Does it die if you go to full throttle, even in neutral?
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Re: Gas Grade

Postby SONNY » Sat May 30, 2015 7:03 pm

I never put more than a couple gallons at a time in them.--- this new wannabee gas evaporates faster than the tractor can use it. thanks; sonny
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Re: Gas Grade

Postby PVF1799 » Sat May 30, 2015 7:19 pm

We run the cheapest gasoline available in all our equipment from our 1929 Regular through the 1955 Cub. We use seafoam and fuel stabilizer for longer term storage. We've never had a problem.

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rileybreed
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Re: Gas Grade

Postby rileybreed » Sat May 30, 2015 8:28 pm

Thanks everyone, that should help me save a few $$ on gas at least.
Just need to mark my cans "cheap" gas and "good" gas...


havoc1482 wrote:What Al said. I run cheap gas too, no lead substitute needed. It will only attract much moisture if the tank sits at less that full for a long time. Seafoam is a great additive too.

Does it die if you go to full throttle, even in neutral?


It runs fine in neutral. It looks like it has stopped raining today, so tomorrow is the time I'll have to go over everything and clean the lines out..
I have seafoam, might try that if the cleaning doesn't work.

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Re: Gas Grade

Postby rileybreed » Sat Jun 06, 2015 1:35 pm

Well, it ran fine and as soon as it warmed up it stalled and won't start. I have a coil on order, hopefully that will be the gremlin.

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Re: Gas Grade

Postby Matt Kirsch » Tue Jun 30, 2015 10:43 am

Did you check for spark? No sense in replacing the coil if you have spark at the plugs.

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Re: Gas Grade

Postby gitractorman » Tue Jun 30, 2015 3:31 pm

Yea, I'd guess you've got a bad plug or wire, shutting down one cylinder. Could be a burnt exhaust valve sticking open when it gets hot too, but if it was running good then happened all of a sudden, I'd lean towards spark. These engines will run unbelievably well on 3 cylinders, until you put them under load, and then you'll notice it.

As for gas, I pick up the non-ethanol gas for everything just because I never know how long it will sit around before I use it, or before it gets burnt up in a machine. A lot of my tractors don't get a lot of use, so a tank of gas may be there for a month or two, and ethanol gas goes bad pretty fast. In the long run, the non-ethanol gas will probably save you more in unnecessary fuel system repairs than the cost of buying it. Also, yes, it does have a higher Btu value and burns cleaner/hotter, with more power, so there is some performance benefit (although you'll probably never notice it. For the $.50 cents more per gallon, I think it's worth it. Also, if you're already buying it for other equipment, then it's just easier.
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rileybreed
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Re: Gas Grade

Postby rileybreed » Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:57 am

I replaced the coil and cleaned out the carb, runs perfect now. (When I checked spark it was hit and miss, and the coil was about the same price as the wires...)
Now I'm looking for implements for it, but I'm in the middle of nowhere and 500 miles away from anyone with anything for it, so someday I'll need to make a trip with a very big trailer!


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