More AV problems

Farmall Super A, AV, 100, 130, & 140 1939 - 1973

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housebg
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Tractors Owned: 1950AV Farm all High clearance
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Location: Walker Louisiana

More AV problems

Postby housebg » Wed Apr 06, 2016 7:19 pm

I am having a hard time getting the pistons out or the sleeves out are there any tricks out there . I have soaked in penetration oil and nothing any help would be great Billy :help: :help:

Eugene
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Re: More AV problems

Postby Eugene » Wed Apr 06, 2016 7:49 pm

Do the pistons move in the sleeves? Or are the pistons rusted to the sleeves/liners?
I have an excuse. CRS.

staninlowerAL
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Re: More AV problems

Postby staninlowerAL » Thu Apr 07, 2016 5:47 am

Is the block still attached to the bell housing/front end? I had one stuck so bad that I had to remove the block and crank, turn it upside down, then work from the bottom but it was stuck really bad. Check for ring grove which might prevent the rings from sliding out at the top.

housebg
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Posts: 141
Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2015 5:23 am
Zip Code: 70785
Tractors Owned: 1950AV Farm all High clearance
1952 Farm all Cub
1958 Farm all Cub
1959 Farm all Cub Lowboy
1951 Farm all Super A
1942Farm all B
1944Farmall B
2000Yanmar YM 2000
Gravely 5665
David Brown 880
Location: Walker Louisiana

Re: More AV problems

Postby housebg » Thu Apr 07, 2016 6:06 am

I have remove the block from the tractor and removed the crankshaft . The pistons will not move at all . I have wire brushed the top of pistons and put oil and have turn over and tap on rod but nothing the pistons are rusted to sleeve . I am trying I though the sleeves would move but no . I f I could get the sleeves out I may be able to heat and get the pistons out .I have new respect for a stuck engine .This is the worst I have ever seen. I am thinking that someone placed something in the tractor when it was setting and then my son started it and ran till it stop and this is what froze the motor .The oil pump was froze up it took a full day to get it off. the oil pump was ate up on the end and the screen was rusted to pieces and the oil pan was rusted apart.
I have a small porta power do you thing I could force the pistons out with it ,I cannot use it on the sleeves with the rods so I need then out. :help: :lost: :surrender:

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Stanton
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Re: More AV problems

Postby Stanton » Thu Apr 07, 2016 6:30 am

Don't know what kind of penetrating oil you're using. I've used the Seafoam and PB Blaster products, but seem to have the most success with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF (auto transmission fluid). Keep working at it. Others may be along to give additional advice.
Stanton
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Re: More AV problems

Postby Super A » Thu Apr 07, 2016 10:15 am

staninlowerAL wrote:Is the block still attached to the bell housing/front end? I had one stuck so bad that I had to remove the block and crank, turn it upside down, then work from the bottom but it was stuck really bad. Check for ring grove which might prevent the rings from sliding out at the top.


That's what I would do. Turn the motor upside down, find my biggest hammer and go medieval on the bottom of the pistons. Just avoid messing up the piston rods/pins.

Al
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Let us pray for farmers and all who prepare the soil for planting, that the seeds they sow may lead to a bountiful harvest.
"It ain't a !@*% A. It's a SUPER A!"

staninlowerAL
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Posts: 3184
Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 11:34 pm
Zip Code: 36558
Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1)'52, (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (1)'72 154 Number Series Loboy, '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '53 MM BG (offset), (2) '49 Avery V's, '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76 Yanmar 1500, Sears Surburban's, MTD's, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: AL (Southwest)

Re: More AV problems

Postby staninlowerAL » Fri Apr 08, 2016 8:47 am

Very similar to my situation above. I placed it upside down on a solid surface (like a couple of 6x6 blocks) with the piston hole clear, then used a Oak block and a large hammer (12 lb. sledge), on the wrist pin boss. Finally had to resort to a steel rod as the oak would not stay together. I broke one piston at the wrist pin boss but got them out. The sleeves never did move. Also, now that the crank is out, try driving the piston down to break the bond. Cut a round oak cover slightly smaller than the piston so you are not hammering directly on the piston. If you can move it slightly, then hone the cylinder and remove any ring grove before driving it from the bottom. Stan

Eugene
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Re: More AV problems

Postby Eugene » Fri Apr 08, 2016 9:41 am

Block of thick wood, oak, slightly smaller than piston diameter. Place block of wood on top of the piston. Chain centered over piston, bolted to holes for head bolts. Hydraulic jack placed on the wood block and anchored to the chain.
Soak piston head with solvent, apply pressure on piston, wait and wait, more solvent, apply a bit more pressure. Repeat the process. May take quite some time to free up a piston.
I have an excuse. CRS.


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