New 140 Owner

[Super A]

That's a 12 volt generator. You can tell by the shape and size, plus it has a fan on it which most 6 volt IH generators were sealed.

CDD if you want to rebuild it check out Sandy's Automotive Electric, outside of Jacksonville near the airport. Also Wallace Starter & Generator in Wallace, they're good too. I usually use them because I'm in town from time to time.

Al

[Stanton]

...Any suggestions on paint to put on them?

The paint you choose is up to you. Jim Becker would be a good reference for original paint color schemes. If you paint any implements International Blue, I'd recommend Ace Hardware's Rust Stop spray paint. It is very close to the original color; applies and wears very good.

For the red, I would recommend Case/IH 2150 available at your dealer. Also wears very good.

Nice haul on the 140 and extras!!

[CDD]

If I take off the generator does it need to be polarized again?

If not then if I put in new bushing, bearing and brushes does it have to be polarized?

If polarization is needed, is there a tutorial for this? One with pictures would be nice.

Also looking for a nice printable schematic for the wiring as well.

Thanks

[CDD]

What is the serial number of the tractor?

I havent gotten the paint off of the tag yet. I started with a little sandpaper and it looks blank. Got some paint remover will try that

[CDD]

That's a 12 volt generator. You can tell by the shape and size, plus it has a fan on it which most 6 volt IH generators were sealed.

CDD if you want to rebuild it check out Sandy's Automotive Electric, outside of Jacksonville near the airport. Also Wallace Starter & Generator in Wallace, they're good too. I usually use them because I'm in town from time to time.

Al

Thanks

[CDD]

If polarization is needed, is there a tutorial for this? One with pictures would be nice.

Found the thread sorry for the post

[CDD]

What is the serial number of the tractor?

Was able to get the paint off of the tag. The serial is 11375 J so it is a 1961 with a rockford clutch.

[CDD]

Here are the implements i got with it, not counting the cultivators, scraper blade and fertilizer distributor. Still rebuilding the generator so I haven't hooked any up yet.

Need to get the wire brush, penetrating oil and paint out on them all too.

A22 Mower?

Plow?

Spring Cultivator and rake?

Box blade

Bush hog

Any information on the implements would be greatly appreciated.

[Don McCombs]

Hard to tell from the photos, but your sickle bar mower does not look complete, unless there are parts not shown in the photos. I don't see the front mounting frame.

[CDD]

Yes I have it in the workshop.

[AL Farmall Boy]

Tractor looks nice. a 1961 model would have originally been 6 volt with a 6v generator, so I guess the PO (previous owner) converted it to 12 volt with a 12v generator.

Also, just for informational purposes......the hood on your tractor is the correct style hood for 1961, and the front cowl/nose piece is from a newer tractor. What exactly are you needing to know about the wiring diagram. Explain and we can help. I don't have that particular diagram handy.

[CDD]

Well,
I really just want it for reference. I will need to rewire most of it as the wires are deteriorating(harnesses are expensive). There are no lights, but i have some to put on it so that will be part of it.
I was told that earlier in this post about the sheet metal not matching but you now have told me what one is correct.
I also read about the crank start, i looked on the pulled and it does have the notches to accept a crank handle, but the bumper is in the access way. Doesn't look bent, but shouldn't have to crank it anyway.
I did order some manuals(IH Farmall 140 Tractor SHOP, Preventive Maintenance Owners Manual) for it and should be here today maybe the schematics will be in there. Is there a copy write issue with those since no one has loaded them on this site for download?
I ordered a generator rebuild kit with bushing, bearing and brushes and noticed that the bushing is solid and does not have a cut out to allow the oil to go all the way through. I am thinking that there will still be seepage to it once I put oil in it? Will that be ok?

[AL Farmall Boy]

Well,
I really just want it for reference. I will need to rewire most of it as the wires are deteriorating(harnesses are expensive). There are no lights, but i have some to put on it so that will be part of it.

The wiring on these tractors is real simple. With yours being a 12 volt "conversion" (to original equipment) be sure to use that diagram if you find it.

QUESTION: Does your tractor still have the saddle type starter switch and pull rod that originally came on a 6v 1961 model, or has it been converted to the dash push-button style starter as found on the 12v models?

I was told that earlier in this post about the sheet metal not matching but you now have told me what one is correct.

I wouldn't worry about looking for the correct nose piece sheetmetal for the tractor as they are very hard to find in good condition. Both versions will bring several hundred dollars to the right buyer. Yours will be fine as-is unless you just have to have the "correct" one.

I did order some manuals(IH Farmall 140 Tractor SHOP, Preventive Maintenance Owners Manual) for it and should be here today maybe the schematics will be in there. Is there a copy write issue with those since no one has loaded them on this site for download?

I thought I had sent the Farmall 140 owners manual to Dennis a year or two ago to upload to the site, but maybe I didn't. Probably just because not as many people on here have 140 tractors.

I ordered a generator rebuild kit with bushing, bearing and brushes and noticed that the bushing is solid and does not have a cut out to allow the oil to go all the way through. I am thinking that there will still be seepage to it once I put oil in it? Will that be ok?

I'm not sure about this because I typically let a shop rebuild them. They don't require very much lubrication since there is an oil wick in there (I think), so I'm sure it'll be fine.

[Jim Becker]

Well,
I really just want it for reference. I will need to rewire most of it as the wires are deteriorating(harnesses are expensive). There are no lights, but i have some to put on it so that will be part of it.

The wiring on these tractors is real simple. With yours being a 12 volt "conversion" (to original equipment) be sure to use that diagram if you find it.

QUESTION: Does your tractor still have the saddle type starter switch and pull rod that originally came on a 6v 1961 model, or has it been converted to the dash push-button style starter as found on the 12v models?

Hard to tell from the picture, but it looks to me like the saddle style switch. Maybe all that was changed was the generator and regulator, plus the ballast resistor.

I ordered a generator rebuild kit with bushing, bearing and brushes and noticed that the bushing is solid and does not have a cut out to allow the oil to go all the way through. I am thinking that there will still be seepage to it once I put oil in it? Will that be ok?

I'm not sure about this because I typically let a shop rebuild them. They don't require very much lubrication since there is an oil wick in there (I think), so I'm sure it'll be fine.

Not knowing just how that particular generator was designed, it probably does have a wick for oiling the bushing. Looking at the old bushing may tell you if anything needs to be done to the new one (if the old bushing wasn't an improperly installed replacement). Sometimes you need to drill an oil hole in a new bushing. After the old one is removed, you can see what sort of oil passage feeds the bushing. If done carefully, you can drill the new bushing before installing it then install so the hole lines up.

Your implement collection looks like a good set but will need a bit of derusting. The plow looks like super chief bottoms. Replacement wear parts are readily available. The "Spring Cultivator and rake?" look like a rock rake (used for roadway maintenance) and a weeder-mulcher (used with cultivators while crop and weeds are both small).

[CDD]

QUESTION: Does your tractor still have the saddle type starter switch and pull rod that originally came on a 6v 1961 model, or has it been converted to the dash push-button style starter as found on the 12v models?[/color]

Yes it still has the saddle and pull rod