Farmall Cub

I have moved from restoring cub cadets (15) to cubs (2) to loboys (1) now I picked up a 140. I can't stop this madness.
The mechanics are done and I've begun the tear down degreasing, blasting, rust removal and should be priming in the next two weeks.

I'm going to spary Iron Gard this time with an old school siphon gun instead of PPG using my HVLP gun. I've seen some real nice Cubs done with the Iron Gard.

I have no room to keep this 140 so if anyone is interested after the paint is on if you want o finish it up with the detail work let me know. If not I'll finish it up but it's got to go because I have a 1940 Ford coming into the shop and the 140 will have to find a new home.

Mark - you sound like a busy boy! You should not have any trouble finding a home for the 140. They are a very popular tractor.

Mark In Richmond wrote:I'm going to spary Iron Gard this time with an old school siphon gun instead of PPG using my HVLP gun. I've seen some real nice Cubs done with the Iron Gard.

I don't know what happened, but my part of the post did not show up. here goes: Why the siphon gun? Is it difficult to shoot the alkyds with an HVLP gun?
I just painted a tractor this year with Nason and the wheels were painted with PPG. HVLP. The finish looks great, but it seems to me that the paint is very brittle. I painted in pieces and that is one of the issues. I think that the alkyds being a softer paint stand up a little better to a nut being tightened. The paint will give way but I have have cracking, say around the lug bolts on the wheels that needs to be fixed. I am wondering if Imron would be a significantly better paint for durability as the Dupont supplier said. He told me the old Centuari paint on my Tiger was far better than the Nason for durability but Imron was better still. The cost, however is out of sight. The one thing I did not like about Iron Guard is that the paint lifted around the gas cap. Now I have a new cap and it does seal, but the damage has been done. I expect the Nason to hold the color a lot better than the alkyd paint.

you have old iron disease! I have had it for many years. I have 14 cub tractors I I-9 international tractor, 1 57 IH truck, 6 cub cadets and a bunch of Ih stuff that I cant remember all i have. but its there! two JD 440 dozers a IH skid steer. There is probabley more than that but i would have to look to verify .at one time I had 25 farmall cubs, 2 IH dozers, tons of impliments for cubs and other IH tractors, I had sevrial A series tractors. If I had the money I would fill up the whole 2 acres with tractors.Mainly cubs! BUt hey I dont drink or smoke and finally got a woman that is into tractor also.She is a keeper!

Clark Thompson wrote:She is a keeper!

I agree, Clark.

Imron is great stuff but requires far more safety equipment (SCBA) and very high dollar. But the safety issues far outweigh the cost.
I’m using the siphon gun because I’m out of practice. Well really my HVLP gun was dropped resulting in me having to procure a new one and I’ve had my eye on an upgrade and don’t want to spend any extra right now. (I’m hoping that I can write to the new President and he will bail me out or buy me a new one).
Regarding the paint lifting around the gas cap was it clean because any hint of old gas or oil will result in this issue.. (I’m sure that you are aware of that just thought I would slip that in for thr 1st time painters). I agree that the Nason will hold the color a lot better than the alkyd paint. A Base Coat Clear Coat gives a great finish but some say its too much finish for these tractors. (I like it but that’s my preference).
I figure I’ll give the Iron Gard a try. What the heck at least I’ll know and be able to give everyone my two cents.

Mark, will you use a hardener with the IronGard?

Mark:

I have used the Centari line as well as the Nason. I like them both, however the Nason does tend to crack especially if you use the catalyst according to the directions. I reduced it by about 5% the last time and it didn't crack as much and the use time increased marginally as well. Centari doesn't crack as bad. I have also used the Iron Gard, and I like it. The only thing I don't much like is that without the catalyst, gas spills and of course sunlight will fade the finish....

But, hey.. Iron Gard is easier.

I like my syphon system, not a fan of HVLP, and definitely not going down the SCBA highway at all.... I may as well stop playing with Cubs if I were to do that... put me in the poor house.

As far as the issues thing.. I keep telling Em, I am staying out of trouble, not getting into politics or advocacy issues, so no stress.. plus we get to eat from the garden.. seems to work..

Started off with 1 Cub, now have 3.5 with 2 whole, 1 CC, 1 Co-Op and 1 Crapsman... and a Putt Putt

Mark In Richmond wrote:Imron is great stuff but requires far more safety equipment (SCBA) and very high dollar. But the safety issues far outweigh the cost.
I’m using the siphon gun because I’m out of practice. Well really my HVLP gun was dropped resulting in me having to procure a new one and I’ve had my eye on an upgrade and don’t want to spend any extra right now. (I’m hoping that I can write to the new President and he will bail me out or buy me a new one).
Regarding the paint lifting around the gas cap was it clean because any hint of old gas or oil will result in this issue.. (I’m sure that you are aware of that just thought I would slip that in for thr 1st time painters). I agree that the Nason will hold the color a lot better than the alkyd paint. A Base Coat Clear Coat gives a great finish but some say its too much finish for these tractors. (I like it but that’s my preference).
I figure I’ll give the Iron Gard a try. What the heck at least I’ll know and be able to give everyone my two cents.

I bought a remote air supply set up and get all suited up to shoot. It is a cheapo system with a big hood and an air pump. I have 100 feet of hose so the intake is well away from where I shoot. It is clunky, but cool with lots of fresh air. I think you can see a lot better with the pro systems and visibility was may biggest problem. Shooting outside did not help either as the sun was your friend and enemy as you walked around the parts. had to shoot outside. I use 15 mil nitrile gloves to mix the paint and then I have the thinner ones for handling the gun. What most don't know is that you can get asthma from the hardener by skin contact as well as breathing the stuff. Safety first.

The alkyd paint problems came from the gas spilling on the paint surface from a bad seal on the cap. It is not very forgiving. The metal was prepped, the problem came from the outside in rather than weeping under. So not really lifting but discoloration and attack of the finish.

Don McCombs wrote:Mark, will you use a hardener with the IronGard?

Hardener is not required but of course I will use it. Also it will be thinned per the directions. Once again I must say that proper PPE must be used. Don't use any paint, even from a can, but more so if spraying with a gun, without the proper PPE. (I think I beat that horse to death).

The Iron Gard flows very well and covered very well. It's good paint and I will use it again if I do another IH. (Why am I say saying "if"). I'm happy with the results.
With a few more hours work I should have this one on the road.

Mark for the price I am impressed with iron guard enamel.

Mark:

Spiffy !!

Just need to install the lights.

The darn front transmission bearing and seal needs to be replaced.
I'm looking for a splitting stand or some safe way that can hold the weight of the 140 and replace the bearing.