140 governor

Farmall Super A, AV, 100, 130, & 140 1939 - 1973

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Bus Driver
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140 governor

Postby Bus Driver » Mon May 25, 2009 10:14 am

I have a 140, run only a few hours since 1991, but enough to keep up the battery and run out the fuel before it gets too stale. Maybe use couple of gallons per year. The tractor is really worn. Needs total rebuild. But time and energy dictates taking care of just a few things at this time. Water pump, radiator and steering, for sure in the immediate future. While doing those, the governor needs attention. Often when the throttle lever is pushed forward, the engine speed increases slowly, taking some time to go to full governed speed. But sometimes, it accelerates very quickly, going well past the governed speed and then the governor closes the throttle quickly, then resuming correct speed. While working on the front of the tractor, I might as well do the governor, too. Familiar words?
From the description, is there likely to be a problem within the governor? Worn? Rebuildable at home? Is this governor involved in the timing of the ignition as with a Cub?
Suggestions welcome.
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Jim Becker
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Re: 140 governor

Postby Jim Becker » Mon May 25, 2009 2:15 pm

The basic design of the 140 governor is pretty similar to the Cub. The distributor is driven by the governor gear, so the same timing concerns. One thing, I think all gear markings on the 140 are on the front sides of the gears. If you bring the engine up on #1 TDC compression stroke, you should be able to see the marks adequately. If you carefully pull the governor and don't disturb the engine or distributor, you should be able to slide the governor back in without loosing timing. The main governor spring is inside the housing and the bumper spring screws into the bottom. Otherwise all components are in about the same place as a Cub.

Since you have an irratic behavior, I'm inclined to think something is sticking. Before taking it apart, go over the governor to carburetor linkage. Make sure it moves freely without any binding. If the external linkage is all OK, then look inside. I'd start with the bushings/bearings.

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