More 140 steering

[Bus Driver]

The sector gear is tight on this one. The sector gear moving on the shaft would cause steering play or lost motion between the steering wheel and the tires. But it would not cause the steering arm to move up and down outside the steering box. Only vertical motion of the shaft or a loose steering arm would cause that problem.

[Super A]

The sector gear is tight on this one. The sector gear moving on the shaft would cause steering play or lost motion between the steering wheel and the tires. But it would not cause the steering arm to move up and down outside the steering box. Only vertical motion of the shaft or a loose steering arm would cause that problem.

I think it could cause it to move up and down, if the keyway is worn just right. On my Super A, you couldn't move the gear on the shaft by hand. I thought it was ok. An old time IH mechanic told me to weld it. I expect your steering arm may be a little loose too, but not visibly so just sitting still.

In my experience, a shotgun approach is the best thing with these steering gears. Change everything but the gears themselves and you should get rid of the slop.

Al

[Jim Becker]

Have to agree with Bus Driver on this. If the shaft can't move up and down and the arm is tight on the shaft, the arm can't move up and down. The shaft is held in place by the upper bearing. If the bearing is tight, a gear loose on the shaft won't allow the shaft to move up and down.

[Boss Hog]

This will be a bit long, but hopefully the information will help you to advise me correctly.
I know the history of this 1958 model 140 for the last 20 years. Always sheltered, often in open side shed. The steering had more than 1/4 turn of steering wheel play, perhaps nearer to 1/2 turn. Steering gear arm moved visibly up and down as steering wheel direction was reversed.
No lubricant added to steering gear in the 20 years. Lube removed was good quantity of heavy oil, no water in it. Apparent seepage, but no significant leakage on the floor and lube level did not drop in the 20 years. The big 1 5/8" nut holding the arm was not very tight, perhaps 40 ft lb. The cotter pin was in place in good condition. The 6 bolts holding the base housing and steering gear housing were barely tight, perhaps 15 ft lb, surprising that there was no leak of lube oil. Steering arm key and key slot were perfect condition.
GSS-1471 Service Manual specifies 175-275 ft lb for the big nut and 150-170 for the 6 bolts. The torque spec. for the 6 bolts seems high to me.
The steering worm wheel shaft bearing is in perfect condition and that shaft has no vertical play when force is applied by hand. The 3 bearing retainer bolts were very tight, but not the 150-160 ft lb specification in the manual. Again that value seems high to me. They were perhaps 90 ft lb. In the pocket for the ball bearing, there is a shim ring on my tractor above the bearing, not shown in the parts catalog. The bearing retainer snap ring is in place and good condition.
Both of the gears are perfect, showing only a slight point-of-contact wear mark. The lower shaft bushing is very tight. The steering wheel shaft has no discernable play.
The axle pivot pin and axle housing bushings are perfect and tight with no visible wear. The steering knuckles ("kingpins") and the bushings in those housings are just like new. The tractor has obviously been well lubed by all owners.
So I am really stumped by the excess steering wheel play. Play is cumulative, each moving point adds to the overall play. Except for the almost-loose big nut, nothing else is out of order. And why would the motion of the arm be vertical if the shaft is held firmly by the ball bearing and it's snap ring and retainer with 3 bolts? There are no shim rings on the shaft between the two housing parts and no surfaces that look to be suited for such shims.
Advice? Things to check in addition to those mentioned?

those toque specs are not right for the smaller bolts it has to be a misprint ,

Boss

[Super A]

Did you say it appears to never have been opened up? If so and the tractor has been used at all then there just about has to be some keyway wear somewhere. These steering boxes were the weak link on these tractors.

How about the bushings in the gear box itself?

I am afraid you'll have to "shotgun" it to ever get it where it doesn't slop. New bushings, bearings, and seals, and weld the gear to the shaft.



Al

[Boss Hog]

Did you say it appears to never have been opened up? If so and the tractor has been used at all then there just about has to be some keyway wear somewhere. These steering boxes were the weak link on these tractors.

How about the bushings in the gear box itself?

I am afraid you'll have to "shotgun" it to ever get it where it doesn't slop. New bushings, bearings, and seals, and weld the gear to the shaft.



Al

I will have to agree, I have never seen one that was not loose in the key-way area, but I am in the tobacco belt where they were used heavily. I guess if it had seen very Little use ?

[Bus Driver]

Due to the press of other issues, this project is not yet completed but has moved a bit further along. The 2 7/8 hole saw powered by a battery drill at slow speed did a great job of smoothing up the inside of the axle. The 2 7/8 is not a usual size, but I had one in my box. Rotating the axle occasionally was helpful as the set of the saw teeth scraped the sides of the axle tube.
The reported repairs to steering gears of other tractors prompted me to be sure that mine did not have the same problem. I pressed off the ST 288 bearing, which was to be replaced, and then pressed off the gear from the shaft. Key and keyway were perfect as was the fit of the gear on the shaft. I did put the bare shaft in the lathe and center drill both ends in case anyone needed to do lathe work on it later. I also faced 0.005 off the shoulder below the threads for the "BIG nut" so that the steering arm could be forced farther onto the shaft by the nut if necessary. Disassembled without the steering arm, the nut can be bottomed on that shoulder. The gear, key and new bearing are now pressed back on the shaft. Further reassembly awaits another day. One IH dealer wanted ~ $30.00 for the ST 288 bearing. Grainger has their 4ZXJ1, NTN 6305C3 which was ~$16.00 with my discount. Same dimensions and perfect fit.
The original pins through the axle clamps to keep the axle extensions aligned evidently were 1/2". This tractor has a front protector assembly added mounted on bolts through those holes. Those bolts are 5/8 through holes enlarged to accept them. So adjusting the front axle width to other holes will require enlarging more holes to 5/8. Not really a big problem, but more non-standard "features".
More later, Perhaps.

[Bus Driver]

Available time has been very limited for working on this project. Someone has "worked" on this steering before. The bearing retainer ring had two bolts with IH logo on the head and one bolt without. The one without had been hacksawed to length. So the shim ring was not original. The bearing stands proud of the pocket about 0.005 without the ring, so the ring will not be reinstalled. The bolts are 5/16-18 x 5/8. The GSS-1471 specifies torque of 150-160 FT-LBS for these bolts! For high grade 5/16 bolts, 150-160 INCH-POUNDS is appropriate. I am just going to get new Grade 8 bolts and replace all of them. The seal pocket in the lower part of the housing had some edge damage showing "Ham-fisted" repair efforts. The seal was not leaking, but I installed a new one.