Farmall 100, 1954 - 1973
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Mon Feb 06, 2012 6:12 pm
Here is a picture that shows the plastic things. I have never replaced them, but probably should since plastic wants to break down over time and heat.
Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:04 pm
I found that #14 part listed as a check valve.
I can now see it in the pictures as well, they are plastic for sure.
Will make sure to order 4 new ones.
TW, Thanks for pic as well.
Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:29 pm
not all break all the time and sometimes none are broke, but most of the time at least one will be cracked. I like to replace them myself
Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:37 pm
Just now sent a message to my dealer to look it up and add to the kits I am already getting.
Almost forgot to order new boots as well.
Tue Feb 07, 2012 6:44 am
Man those touch control blocks look complicated. Hope I don't have to tear one down any time soon.
Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:46 am
They do look somewhat intimidating don't they?
I plan on making some kind of map or maybe a container with separate compartments for each piece so as to not get them mixed up. Seeing that the whole block should be cleaned, all the parts will have come out.
I did the same with the transmission. Taking pictures is also a good way to keep things going back the right way.
I'll try to post pics as I progress.
Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:58 am
The way I kept track of what parts went where is by using quart paint mixing cups. I have hundreds of them. If a hole contains parts 12,13,13a,15 or whatever, I marked each cup with masking tape what was in it. You can clean the parts a cup at a time. I also left all o rings on until I was ready to install the new ones so I could match them up.
Tue Feb 07, 2012 10:36 am
They are not hard at all just keep everythig in order and lay the parts out on a CLEAN surface It will take you about an hour or so after you get it off and cleaned up.Remember that CLEAN is a big factor I float the o rings in Hy Tran in a cup before putting them on
Tue Feb 07, 2012 10:54 am
Jim Becker wrote:Billy,
I think all the internal Touch-Control parts are identical between the 100 and 130. If you don't have the parts catalog, you can find it on the Case-IH web site. Very few parts show 2 numbers and most of them list as interchangable. The 100 and 130 use the same book. Makes it easy to check parts between the 2 models.
I don't know how bad the rods on the 130 are as I can't really see them. But they were all the way extended when I got them and must have been like that for several years to be so rusted they didn't want to move. So I imagine they will need to be replaced or re-chromed.
Tue Feb 07, 2012 5:28 pm
I think I had better take a look at the #14 Check Valves that we have been discussing and hope that they are all OK.
Here's my quote from CASE IH.
QTY PART # DESRIPTION UNIT PRICE EXT STATUS
4 354057r2 check valve @ $ 38.63 $ 154.52 3 days
1 354007r96 rebuild kit 135.60 135.60 3 days
4 364832r2 boot 17.63 70.52 3 "
Those prices are before tax. These are the costly items the rest of the stuff $5 or less ea.
Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:29 am
All the parts out of the TC unit. Filed and in order.
What are all these? And what do I do with them. They are in awful tight. The 2 half/inch nut things came out easy but not sure what they are.
These piston seals are likely the cause of all the leaking fluid.
Here's another look at all the stuff.
These are the 'bullets' that Boss was talking about. They appear in great shape. No cracks at all so they will be going back in.
Wed Feb 08, 2012 9:04 am
The 2 "half inch nut things" should have little screens behind them. I usally get them out with a pocket screwdriver. I removed all the hex head screws inside and out to do a better job cleaning out passageways. Nice job on the box for keeping things in order by the way.
P.S. I also removed the welch (freeze?) plugs as well. .68 cents each ad J.D.
Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:10 am
What did you use to remove those hex nuts? They are sure tight in there.
I was thinking an impact wrench. Certainly won't move by hand. I don't want to break anything.
So once everything is out you clean it up good with varsol and blow out all passages with air.
Hmmm, my manual does not mention removing the hex heads. Only the 2 half/inch nuts Relief Valves (that is the ones you mention there is a screen to take out and clean)
Those piston connecting rod nuts are a real bull as well. Have not removed them yet, and not sure I will attempt as it feels like something will break before those nuts come loose. I figure if I gotta put a pipe on the ratchet I'm asking for trouble.
Thanks for looking in.
Wed Feb 08, 2012 11:05 am
This is what should be in the kit to rebuild the block. Seal/Gasket Kit # 354 007 R96.
Looks like the kit # 360 957 R91 is no longer available for the pump rebuild so the 5 or 6 required items have to be ordered separately. The most important part being the shaft seal.
Wed Feb 08, 2012 2:06 pm
Ed, for the hex screws, I used a 3/8 drive hex head set. I had no problem at all with those. The connecting rods I put the rod in a vice with plywood on each side for protection and used a 1/2 drive impact gun. I only had trouble with one of those. You'll get it, just have an adult beverage and think about it for a few minutes, then just do it.
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