Farmall 100, 1954 - 1973
Moderator: Team Cub
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
4 posts • Page 1 of 1
I had to take a break to work on some family things but now I am almost done and have a few questions for the experts. I attached 3 pics which I have questions about. I appreciate all the answers from my last post. I have the rebuild kit installed and am ALMOST ready to put it together.
I put the bushing in from the kit and it went in perfectly. I polished the shaft and cleaned it up. As soon as I hit the biggest part of the shaft it gets really tight. I wouldn't think this should be so tight. Is this normal to have to drive it down? I mean it is tight.
The keyway for the sector gear was pretty worn out ( both the key and shaft). I made my own key trying to fix the slop. It was tight when I put it back together but I am noticing some play in it. I want this to be solid as I don't want to tear this apart again. I read different posts and some people said with confidence, "Just weld it". Any recommendations on welding it. If so where would you weld it? Right below the top bearing or where it is circled in this picture? If you do recommend welding it I was going to weld it on the bottom but I want it to sit against the housing base nicely. I am curious on what your thoughts are.
This is a general questions. Originally I wanted to remove this base but I had a devil of a time getting the tube off. Do you have any suggestions on how to drive the tube out for removal?
Thank in advance for all of you who help use IH/Farmall rookies.
Here's my experience:
1. I don't recall that bushing being that tight. It may be you need to ream it a little to fit properly. Hopefully Boss Hog and others will fill in the blanks here.
2. Welding the gear to the shaft: Weld the bottom, where you have circled. To make up for the space the weld bead takes up, the machine shop ground the bottom half of the housing down to where the gussets start. It's the area you have circled in your first picture, will end up removing about 1/4" of material from the housing. Once it's bolted together everything went together fine and no one will ever know....
3. To remove the axle tube, remove the bolts in each end of the pin the axle pivots on. Once you do that it "should" drive out pretty easily. The bolts have to come completely out because the pivot pin is actually notched so the bolts lock it into place.
hope this helps,
White Demo Super A Restoration Updates
Let us pray for farmers and all who prepare the soil for planting, that the seeds they sow may lead to a bountiful harvest.
Thank you Super A. I drove out like a champ without the bolts. I just figured if they were loose it should drive out. I still have been trying to sand that bushing to get the shaft in and it is still tight. I even used a honing tool for a cylinder wall. This should not be this hard. I have a friend with a machine shop and will have him weld my sector gear and cut the base so it rides fine. I was hoping for some ideas/suggestions on why the shaft is so tight fitting. It should be a whiz bang with the rebuild kit. I even took the old bushing and it slides on it perfectly.
I've ran into that problem as well with the bushings being really tight. I was told they are made that way so you can fit your shaft to the bushing as tight as you want. They must be made small so you can have a machine shop hone them down to the size of each individual shaft. I don't know for sure, but that is what I was told. I've rebuilt 2 steering boxes and 1 bushing was tight on the shaft and the other bushing wasn't. I gave a kit to a local guy for his Super A and he told me his was so tight the shaft would hardly fit. I assume he got the machine shop to hone it because I didn't hear back from him.
4 posts • Page 1 of 1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest