Farmall C & Super C Tractors, 1948-1954
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Tue Aug 19, 2008 10:26 am
I like it!!!Find the rest of the cults and anything else.I think you hit a gold mine.Kevin
Wed Aug 20, 2008 6:38 am
Next time take a compressor with you. The tires will probably air up just fine. Great find!
Thu Aug 21, 2008 2:10 am
Great find, You will love that tractor and parts are easy to come by for it It has a real good grille and that is the hardest part to find
Sun Aug 24, 2008 3:03 pm
Harold R wrote:
Looks as if the rain has set in for the day, so we won't be able to load it up and bring it home until next week. It is soaking with a lot of penetrant now, so hopefully when we get back to it, the keepers on the rear hubs will break loose and we can slide the rears inward to fit on my 8' trailer. I'm hopeful that JP's tractor parts will have the few items that we'll need. As far as the hydraulic temp guage, both the guage and the metal line are beyond repair. I'm hoping those are still in supply. The gas tank will have to be replaced and the rims were a concern, however, they look better than they do in the pictures, and should be able to be sandblasted and repainted. I was suprised to find the pan seat in good condition. Surface rust, but still plenty of metal there. The seat spring was broken though. As far as the engine, the manifold will have to be replaced, it was broke apart where the exhaust pipe screws in. The carb was intact, covered in gunk, but didn't appear to have been beat up like some of the cub carbs i've seen. So far....no major "uh-ohs" yet.
Just for sake of argument, have you measured the rear wheel tread? If your trailer is 8' wide, it should load up like it is. If not, once you break the bolts that hold the clamps on the axles loose, spray the axles down with your favorite penetrating oil and they should slide with little problem. Also, loosten the clamps pretty good. I can move the wheels on my 230 (later version of the Super C) right by myself in minutes. Also, I think it helps them move easier to have the wheel turned so the keyways are at the 9:00 and 3:00 position--and wire brush the keyways out to remove any accumulated crud....
Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:39 am
No update on the Super C yet. We've had a lot of rain and it's too muddy in the field to retrieve it. Hopefully early next week it will be dry enough........stay tuned. It's been soaking with PB Blaster and hopefully we can get the wheels in and the middle buster off so it will load up.
Mon Sep 15, 2008 7:26 am
Well the tractor is still sitting where we left it, and it's rained 15 or more inches in the last couple of weeks. But I have some time to go and attempt to get the rear wheels in so it can be trailered home. We have located the keepers on the hubs that appear to lock the hub down on the shaft, question is, once removed or loosened, can the wheels be moved in without jacking the rear up? We have put a lot of penetrant in the hub areas and have considered using a "come along" to winch the wheels inward. The ground is still so moist that I doubt being able to raise even one side at a time. Any ideas or techniques....or wait until the ground dries out and jack the rear end up.
Mon Sep 15, 2008 8:04 am
Harold - the only way you are going to get those hubs to move is to get the weight off of them. If you use a come-along to apply some pull you will likely still need to do some "tapping" with a big hammer to break them free of the rust bond. If you do use the come-along apply the pull evenly so you don't bind the wheel on the axle.
Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:13 am
Harold, I assume a C/Super C is like an H, if so there are bolts both on the inside and outside of the wheel that lock the clamps in place. If you have some thing like a disk blade or old disk plow blade to put under your jack, it will spread the weigh out and reduce sinking. If you take the wheels off will just the center disk be narrow enough to fit on the trailer? You could put down some boards and winch it on rolling on just the centerc of the wheels. I have known a lot of tractor salvage guys to load them that way when the tires/rims were too bad to roll.
Mon Sep 15, 2008 2:49 pm
Looks like it has to be raised. I could have swung a sledge hammer all day and not budge those wheels. I might could go back with some planking and maybe use a jack on that.......but I guess I need to be patient a little longer. Just standing in the same spot started bringing water out of the soil. My trailer is only 6 1/2 ft wide......I didn't think to measure just the rims........that might work.....even let one side hang just over the rail if it wouldn't drag the ground. I might look into renting a flat bed trailer or even hiring a wrecker service with one of those Jerr-Dan beds that tilt down. Stay tuned.....I'll figure this out.
Mon Sep 15, 2008 7:34 pm
Now that you mention it, I imagine you could get someone with a flatbead tow truck to drag it home for you for under a $100. That still makes it a good deal.
Mon Sep 15, 2008 11:38 pm
Now that you mention it, I imagine you could get someone with a flatbead tow truck to drag it home for you for under a $100. That still makes it a good deal
Yeah, after swing a sledge hammer while standing in mud......I got the same notion.
Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:45 am
Let the fun begin!!!!http://photos.cubfest.com/displayimage.php?album=lastupby&cat=0&pos=1&uid=314
It wasn't easy to get this out of the field and to it's new home, but I feel it was worth it. It finally dried out enough to go get it, but my 12 ton bottle jack pick a bad day to start bypassing, leaving us no way to raise the back end to get the tires in. But ,after brain storming for a few minutes, we came up with the idea of rolling the tractor until the locking keepers were at the top of the hub, removing them, and then running a chain through the wheel and pulling the tractor sideways to bring the axle through the hub. And as you can see......it worked. I've had some time to look the tractor over now, since I can spend less time looking for snakes and biting bugs, and I got questions! Yes, I'm purchasing manuals....but until they get here......how about an oil dip stick?
I see a lot of similarities with the cub, which leads me to believe I can get this thing going. My primary goal this week is to determind just how stuck the engine is. Everything looks real straight on this tractor, so just some light sand-blasting and priming should take care of the tin. The clutch feels like it's working, but I haven't been on it while moving it to see. The trans. goes into all gears....so maybe I'll get lucky there as well. I'll keep updating if there's interest, and I'm sure I'll have questions not covered in the manuals. Last question for today........in the pics below, on the light bar, there's two things clamped on that look like rear rifle sights.........some sort of row markers????http://photos.cubfest.com/displayimage.php?album=lastupby&cat=0&pos=0&uid=314http://photos.cubfest.com/displayimage.php?album=lastupby&cat=0&pos=2&uid=314
Wed Sep 24, 2008 9:24 am
Looks like a good find. Look on the left side of the oil pan for 2 plugs. The lower is the full level for oil.
Wed Sep 24, 2008 10:09 am
Wed Sep 24, 2008 10:15 am
OK, I do see those. One is about 1/2 inch higher than the other. Push/pull petcock of sorts? Odd.
Seem to be froze up.
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