any ideas how to stop the float needle with the black tip from sticking. Float moves up and down but needle does open much if at all. Very little air gets through if blow into gas input fitting.
Crank handle wearing me out from fooling with this thing. Have had carb apart 1/2 dozen times with new kit installed the first time.
Needs rebuilding starter but that will only come after can get it running.
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Farmall Super C zenith carb b1
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- Don McCombs
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Re: Farmall Super C zenith carb b1
trycolin wrote:any ideas how to stop the float needle with the black tip from sticking.
Replace it with a steel or brass needle.
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Re: Farmall Super C zenith carb b1
The permanent fix is as Don stated.
In the mean time. Manually drop the needle valve and run a can of carb cleaner through the fuel system. Also, when finished working the tractor for the day, shut off the fuel at the gas tank and let the tractor run until it starves, shuts off. ((Turn off the ignition.))
Cub Cadets use the Viton needle valve. Typically after sitting all winter the needle valve is stuck. Once unstuck, there is no problem during the mowing season.
In the mean time. Manually drop the needle valve and run a can of carb cleaner through the fuel system. Also, when finished working the tractor for the day, shut off the fuel at the gas tank and let the tractor run until it starves, shuts off. ((Turn off the ignition.))
Cub Cadets use the Viton needle valve. Typically after sitting all winter the needle valve is stuck. Once unstuck, there is no problem during the mowing season.
I have an excuse. CRS.
- John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: Farmall Super C zenith carb b1
typically on a Zenith there is a little wire clip that connects the needle to the float arm and pulls it down when the float opens. Yours may be missing.
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you are part of the problem!!!
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Re: Farmall Super C zenith carb b1
You're right John! There is no clip to pull the needle down when the float goes down. Think I can make one or will I have to buy a another $25 rebuild kit.
- Don McCombs
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Re: Farmall Super C zenith carb b1
Give these folks a call and see if they have what you need...
http://www.mcdonaldcarb.com/default.asp
http://www.mcdonaldcarb.com/default.asp
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Re: Farmall Super C zenith carb b1
Excellent recommendation Don. Have contacted them and they are sending me a new needle, seat, and spring clip. They sound like good people. Have added them to my favorites list for future use. Thanks.
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Re: Farmall Super C zenith carb b1
trycolin wrote:Excellent recommendation Don. Have contacted them and they are sending me a new needle, seat, and spring clip. They sound like good people. Have added them to my favorites list for future use. Thanks.
Good choice. I buy all my carb stuff from them. In fact, time for me to give them a call and stock up
Thomas
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Re: Farmall Super C zenith carb b1
How to keep the black rubber (or Viton?) tip from sticking is a question for the ages.
There is no good answer that I'm aware of.
All metal tips are rarely available. The only place I know of that sells them is TM tractor, and then only for the IH Cub carb.
I have heard that you tap the needle into the seat to set the shape of the needle, but I have also heard that you are not supposed to do that. So, I dunno.
I've done it both ways, and had problems both ways. My Super H was "seated" and drove me nuts for months with the sticking. Now it works fine.
I've got a brass needle from TM in my '67's carburetor. It doesn't seal worth beans, and will dribble 7 gallons of gasoline on the ground, at an almost imperceptible rate, over the course of a few months.
The viton needle in the '53 Cub seems to work perfectly out of the box.
The viton needle in my Super A on the other hand randomly likes to not seal up and start peeing gas on the floor...
There is no good answer that I'm aware of.
All metal tips are rarely available. The only place I know of that sells them is TM tractor, and then only for the IH Cub carb.
I have heard that you tap the needle into the seat to set the shape of the needle, but I have also heard that you are not supposed to do that. So, I dunno.
I've done it both ways, and had problems both ways. My Super H was "seated" and drove me nuts for months with the sticking. Now it works fine.
I've got a brass needle from TM in my '67's carburetor. It doesn't seal worth beans, and will dribble 7 gallons of gasoline on the ground, at an almost imperceptible rate, over the course of a few months.
The viton needle in the '53 Cub seems to work perfectly out of the box.
The viton needle in my Super A on the other hand randomly likes to not seal up and start peeing gas on the floor...
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