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Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Farmall C, Super C Tractors, 200 & 230 1948-1958
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Rocket Man
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1951 Farmall Cub
1980 Roper 20t

Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Postby Rocket Man » Sun Jul 05, 2015 7:32 pm

So on my road of organic farming I have ran my cub w hyd and tools for 3 years and feel limited in tractor size.
I feel my cultivating and weeding with the cub covers a small area I wonder if the spread of the Super c or 200 would get more done.
I am moving to larger beds with 2 rows and growing more Kale chard and potato.
Can the super c 200 etc out farm the cub and how much of a step up in terms of repairs and repair costs could I occur.
I found 2 super c for 3000 for both w cultivators and others for 1500 to 2700.
some rebuilt more than others.
thoughts
thanks
Rocket Man

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Super A
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Re: Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Postby Super A » Sun Jul 05, 2015 8:26 pm

Rocket Man wrote:So on my road of organic farming I have ran my cub w hyd and tools for 3 years and feel limited in tractor size.
I feel my cultivating and weeding with the cub covers a small area I wonder if the spread of the Super c or 200 would get more done.
I am moving to larger beds with 2 rows and growing more Kale chard and potato.
Can the super c 200 etc out farm the cub and how much of a step up in terms of repairs and repair costs could I occur.
I found 2 super c for 3000 for both w cultivators and others for 1500 to 2700.
some rebuilt more than others.
thoughts
thanks
Rocket Man



We have a 230--a 200 with a different paint scheme and the hydraulics are a little different. If you want to work two rows I think you would like a Super C, 200, etc. The engine is the same design as a Super A/100/130/140, transmission is very similar as well. The tractor is very nimble (downright fun to drive,) and has good power for its size. Since it's a C-123 engine (very common) parts are easy to get. If you find a nice one I don't think you'll be disappointed.

Al
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Let us pray for farmers and all who prepare the soil for planting, that the seeds they sow may lead to a bountiful harvest.
Celebrating 75 years of the Super A: 1947-2022

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Rocket Man
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1951 Farmall Cub
1980 Roper 20t

Re: Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Postby Rocket Man » Sun Jul 05, 2015 10:04 pm

Thanks good words
I passed up a 200 when I bought the cub,
happy I started there but ready to move up.

I bought a large Allis Basket weeder 3 or 4 rows and its 4 by 6.5 and heavy.
So instead of chopping it down it lead me to the answer of bigger tractor.
Then 2 came up for sale and if all goes well with the cub sell will make an offer 500 less but for both super c s.
if not 6 others as well as 200 230 for sale close by.
But I need the belly and rear tool bars at least.
Rocket Man

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Re: Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Postby LincTex » Mon Jul 06, 2015 5:13 pm

PRE-NOTE: Just for the record - the last four "straight C" engines I have disassembled have all had 3.125" ("Super C" sized) or larger pistons in it. I have to wonder if there are any Farmall C engine anymore with 3" pistons. One 1950 "C" I bought for parts had 3.25" pistons in it!

You'll be astounded by the amount of work that can be done by a healthy "C" or "Super C". It's easy to make more power than the wheels can handle in this tractor.
A 6-foot tandem disc is easy work, except in the hardest of clay - and even then you just another set of wheel weights and drop a gear (the wheel weights are NOT rare, and are the same as used on an "H"). Two row cultivators are no problem at all.

The engines are very easy to start, good on fuel, sturdy, & very easy to get inexpensive parts for.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR:
1) Bring a compression tester.
Mark the plug wires, pull all 4 spark plugs, and open the throttle. You better see at least 75-80 psi on all 4 cylinders or she's getting pretty weak. New one's spun at 125 psi.
2) Rear tires!
11.2x36 rubber is hard to find used. New ones are about $400 or so, give or take. Front ones are not expensive.
3) Hydraulics
Check the "touch control" for good operation. A "whiny" hydraulic pump (its under the distributor) means problems - it should be quiet. Open the filler plug (slowly! It is left side of tractor, under fuel tank, top left of "touch control") and look for clean fluid and proper level.
4) Gear noise?
A noisy transmission usually means the input shaft bearing is bad (this is a common problem), which means you need to split that tractor (not hard to do, just time consuming). Listen to the PTO when it's in gear, too. The trans should whirr silently with the engine idling in neutral.
5) Brakes
The disc brakes on "Super Cs" seem to last a lot longer than the band brakes on "C's"
6) Steering
Look closely at the two U-joints in the steering shaft for slop, the shear pins in the shaft for slop, and the cast iron clamp at the back of the horizontal shaft for cracks (on trans tube).
Wide front end (WFE) tractors command a higher price, but just for novelty reasons (I wouldn't own one). The narrow front end makes the tractor turn on a dime (Yes, you can Z.T.R. the inside rear wheel if you step on the respective brake when turning). No power steering needed at all - if you find one with a single front wheel, they steer so easy you can drive it with a toothpick in your fingertips. Check the front bolster for crack where the front of the engine blocks bolts to it on each side. Broken cast iron (both on the bolster and the front engine ears) is common on abused tractors and should negotiate down the price.
7) Low oil pressure in these engines is USUALLY the cast aluminum oil pump cover (it warps). It's an easy fix (about and hour) to pull the oil pan and sand it down so its flat again. Never use a "thick" oil pump cover gasket! One cut out from a manila folder works pretty well.
8.) I am not sure why, but I see a lot of external radiator corrosion on these things. Look the radiator over well. Bring a telescoping mirror and a bright flashlight and look in all the nooks and crannies. If there's straight water in the radiator that usually means there's trouble somewhere.
9) Look the exhaust manifold over closely (and listen) for cracks, excessive rust or "burned through" areas.
Personal opinion, but I HATE the sound of Stanley mufflers! (a straight pipe is worse, though...) Stanleys bark, not purr. A Farmall should purr! A small "import car" muffler will sound much, much better.

Parts and repairs??
Well, I'm still buying parts tractors around here for $100-$200, so I can't comment on this. I keep the parts that I need and sell the rest on ebay and always make a tidy profit. Once you OWN one, you'll start seeing them everywhere! The steering shaft angle gives these tractors away from a distance!! I have two complete sets of front mount cultivators - One rough, one nice. The nicest set I bought for $75 and its perfect (the guy made a pulling tractor out of the host tractors)

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Re: Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Postby Matt Kirsch » Tue Jul 07, 2015 12:04 pm

You should be able to pick up a nice field ready Super C for $1500 or less. Of course, usually not including implements.

IMHO the problem with the C-series tractors is implements, at least around here. You hardly ever see things like cultivators or plows with the tractor, let alone for sale individually. On the other hand you can get most common Cub implements any day of the week, almost like they're on the shelf at the local Walmart.

LincTex
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Re: Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Postby LincTex » Tue Jul 07, 2015 4:27 pm

Matt Kirsch wrote:IMHO the problem with the C-series tractors is implements, at least around here. You hardly ever see things like cultivators or plows with the tractor, let alone for sale individually. On the other hand you can get most common Cub implements any day of the week, almost like they're on the shelf at the local Walmart.


Funny, In Texas it seems the other way around.

"Cub Stuff" is used a lot (still) in Texas and very seldom comes up for sale. (lots of hobby farms)
The C and Super C stuff is relatively forgotten. The stuff I have been buying hasn't been used in 20 years or more.

Also, in Texas - H's and M's are super plentiful - but the implements seemingly all sold for scrap years & years ago...

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Re: Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Postby havoc1482 » Tue Jul 07, 2015 6:54 pm

Matt Kirsch wrote:IMHO the problem with the C-series tractors is implements, at least around here. You hardly ever see things like cultivators or plows with the tractor, let alone for sale individually. On the other hand you can get most common Cub implements any day of the week, almost like they're on the shelf at the local Walmart.


I find the same about of Super A and C items as Cub stuff here in the Northeast. I know a guy that runs a C with a double hopper-ed sidedresser/cultivator.
Mike
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Rocket Man
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1951 Farmall Cub
1980 Roper 20t

Re: Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Postby Rocket Man » Wed Jul 08, 2015 12:02 am

many here in Ontario Canada in the 1500 cdn range
most with at least cultivator bars ,
some with full cultivators and one with loader and rear cultivators.

Should i go 200 or super c
i am going to get 2 for the price of my Cub and my Roper and tiller.
I grabbed a large basket weeder and a set of Planet Jr
for one
and out fit one with a plow and or sweeps.

Just learning what pays on less then 10 acres
Rocket Man

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Rocket Man
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Joined: Wed May 29, 2013 8:44 pm
Zip Code: n1e2b5
Tractors Owned: At the Farm today\
1951 Farmall Cub
1980 Roper 20t

Re: Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Postby Rocket Man » Wed Jul 08, 2015 12:05 am

LincTex wrote:PRE-NOTE: Just for the record - the last four "straight C" engines I have disassembled have all had 3.125" ("Super C" sized) or larger pistons in it. I have to wonder if there are any Farmall C engine anymore with 3" pistons. One 1950 "C" I bought for parts had 3.25" pistons in it!

You'll be astounded by the amount of work that can be done by a healthy "C" or "Super C". It's easy to make more power than the wheels can handle in this tractor.
A 6-foot tandem disc is easy work, except in the hardest of clay - and even then you just another set of wheel weights and drop a gear (the wheel weights are NOT rare, and are the same as used on an "H"). Two row cultivators are no problem at all.

The engines are very easy to start, good on fuel, sturdy, & very easy to get inexpensive parts for.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR:
1) Bring a compression tester.
Mark the plug wires, pull all 4 spark plugs, and open the throttle. You better see at least 75-80 psi on all 4 cylinders or she's getting pretty weak. New one's spun at 125 psi.
2) Rear tires!
11.2x36 rubber is hard to find used. New ones are about $400 or so, give or take. Front ones are not expensive.
3) Hydraulics
Check the "touch control" for good operation. A "whiny" hydraulic pump (its under the distributor) means problems - it should be quiet. Open the filler plug (slowly! It is left side of tractor, under fuel tank, top left of "touch control") and look for clean fluid and proper level.
4) Gear noise?
A noisy transmission usually means the input shaft bearing is bad (this is a common problem), which means you need to split that tractor (not hard to do, just time consuming). Listen to the PTO when it's in gear, too. The trans should whirr silently with the engine idling in neutral.
5) Brakes
The disc brakes on "Super Cs" seem to last a lot longer than the band brakes on "C's"
6) Steering
Look closely at the two U-joints in the steering shaft for slop, the shear pins in the shaft for slop, and the cast iron clamp at the back of the horizontal shaft for cracks (on trans tube).
Wide front end (WFE) tractors command a higher price, but just for novelty reasons (I wouldn't own one). The narrow front end makes the tractor turn on a dime (Yes, you can Z.T.R. the inside rear wheel if you step on the respective brake when turning). No power steering needed at all - if you find one with a single front wheel, they steer so easy you can drive it with a toothpick in your fingertips. Check the front bolster for crack where the front of the engine blocks bolts to it on each side. Broken cast iron (both on the bolster and the front engine ears) is common on abused tractors and should negotiate down the price.
7) Low oil pressure in these engines is USUALLY the cast aluminum oil pump cover (it warps). It's an easy fix (about and hour) to pull the oil pan and sand it down so its flat again. Never use a "thick" oil pump cover gasket! One cut out from a manila folder works pretty well.
8.) I am not sure why, but I see a lot of external radiator corrosion on these things. Look the radiator over well. Bring a telescoping mirror and a bright flashlight and look in all the nooks and crannies. If there's straight water in the radiator that usually means there's trouble somewhere.
9) Look the exhaust manifold over closely (and listen) for cracks, excessive rust or "burned through" areas.
Personal opinion, but I HATE the sound of Stanley mufflers! (a straight pipe is worse, though...) Stanleys bark, not purr. A Farmall should purr! A small "import car" muffler will sound much, much better.

Parts and repairs??
Well, I'm still buying parts tractors around here for $100-$200, so I can't comment on this. I keep the parts that I need and sell the rest on ebay and always make a tidy profit. Once you OWN one, you'll start seeing them everywhere! The steering shaft angle gives these tractors away from a distance!! I have two complete sets of front mount cultivators - One rough, one nice. The nicest set I bought for $75 and its perfect (the guy made a pulling tractor out of the host tractors)


I emailed this to my phone
amazing info
great resource
I need cheap work horse tractors this will help
Rocket Man

LincTex
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Re: Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Postby LincTex » Thu Jul 09, 2015 12:34 am

Here's one in Connecticut with a front end loader for $1,900

The fast hitch alone is worth $500-$800 or so...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1952-Farmall-Su ... 2020606434

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Rocket Man
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Joined: Wed May 29, 2013 8:44 pm
Zip Code: n1e2b5
Tractors Owned: At the Farm today\
1951 Farmall Cub
1980 Roper 20t

Re: Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Postby Rocket Man » Thu Jul 09, 2015 10:03 pm

A few pop up around here every week

I am thinking do to my veggies a wide front end might be needed
for close cultivation with a basket weeder would a trike or a wide be best.
I thought a trike would let me do 2 beds roughly how wide could the beds be\
So how wide from the outside of the front wheel to the inside of the rear wheel.

One came up here with a loader rear cultivators and 12 volt conversion
for 1500 .
I need to sell the cub first or have a great market week.
saw this it was more or less what I am thinking

https://www.mecum.com/lot-detail/GF0813 ... l-Super-C/

thanks to all for their input

Jim Becker
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Re: Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Postby Jim Becker » Thu Jul 09, 2015 11:14 pm

The standard dual wheel front of a C has a track of 6 3/4 inches. That is center-to-center of the tires, so add 4 or 5 inches depending on tire size. If you get a single front, it reduces the width needed to the width of the fork. The rear tread adjusts from 47 to 71, again center-to-center. Two optional rear axles can go to 80 or 100 inches. If you get a wide front, it adjusts from 56 to 89 1/4 inches. With standard equipment (including 4.00 front and 9.5 rear tires), you are looking at a max of about 26 from the outside of the front to the inside of the rear. Various options can change the width available. Single front and wide front were popular options for small vegetable work. You have to allow some space to keep from driving on the beds. You may have to adjust bed sizes some depending on what tractor set-up you can find.

LincTex
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Re: Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Postby LincTex » Mon Jul 13, 2015 8:36 pm

Rocket Man wrote:I need to sell the cub first or have a great market week.


That old saying... "strike when the iron is hot"... THAT is how you get good deals. Dip into savings, raid Christmas Fund, whatever you need to do to snag a good deal when it comes up....

Rocket Man wrote: saw this it was more or less what I am thinking
https://www.mecum.com/lot-detail/GF0813 ... l-Super-C/


I have never seen such a "PTO driven cultivating device" before...

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havoc1482
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Re: Thinking of switching from Cub to Super C or 200 etc

Postby havoc1482 » Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:01 pm

yeah, what the heck is that thing under the belly??
Mike
Image

I bleed Black & Gold

IH Collectors Club New England (Chapter 18)

Western Mass. (The 413)


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