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Hydraulic Valve

Farmall C, Super C Tractors, 200 & 230 1948-1958
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Smokeycub
10+ Years
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Posts: 1050
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2011 10:47 am
Zip Code: 44266
Tractors Owned: 48 F Cub #11678
65 Cub Cadet 104
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54 Super C
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Ravenna, Ohio

Re: Hydraulic Valve

Postby Smokeycub » Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:13 am

ajhbike wrote:I just looked at the valve and I can't understand how it can be in a neutral position....the valve button gets pushed down part way or all the way but there is only the one valve button...no other valve to depress to counter the down stroke.

Jim Becker wrote:When you walk up to the tractor, the valve should be in the neutral position. Pushing the lever one way will push the valve down to move the cylinder one way. Pushing the lever the other way will pull the valve up to move the cylinder the other way. Let go of the lever and the valve should pop back to neutral.


Jim is absolutely right. To put it another way, the valve is a 3 position "spool" that is normally in neutral. When opened in either direction it will activate the cylinder one way or the other and return to neutral when the lever is released. As to whether it is an open or closed system I'm not sure. When adding external hydraulics to a Cub it is important (imperative) to allow the oil to return to the TC reservoir otherwise the pressure is dead headed, making that portion of it an open center system. I'm guessing here but I think the SC valve is routed similarly but done internally. Whichever it is makes no difference in the operation of the (dual action) cylinder
Ray
Smokeycub
Attachments - 193 plow - 144 cultivator - 22 mower - 28A disc harrow - 54 leveling blade - Woods 59C2 - drag harrows - Mott D9 flail - flat belt pulley
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ajhbike
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 1614
Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 4:06 pm
Zip Code: 06405
Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub
1951 Super C
1966 IH 504 Hi-Clear
1968 JD 3020
1949 JD B
1949 Ford 8N
1955 Ferguson TO-35
Location: Branford, CT

Re: Hydraulic Valve

Postby ajhbike » Wed Oct 18, 2017 10:43 am

I am going to have to figure something out because all I have is a connecting rod with a ring on the end that is loosely tied to the light bar with some 10ga wire. That is why I am on the hunt for a control lever and bracket.
So you are saying the neutral position for the valve is halfway depressed and the cylinder is raised or lowered by letting up from the halfway position or raised by pushing down more from the halfway position

Jim Becker
Team Cub
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Location: MN

Re: Hydraulic Valve

Postby Jim Becker » Wed Oct 18, 2017 11:16 am

No that is not what we are saying. The valve is in the neutral position right now, while you are sitting at your computer. Move it up for one direction, down for the other. Neutral is in the middle, where is it sitting RIGHT NOW.

Go out and fiddle with the rod with the engine off. Push and pull it while staring at the valve, until you understand how it moves. You don't need the control lever. It will work with just the rod. After you see how the rod moves the valve, go back and reread everything you have already been told in this thread, particularly my first and fifth posts and the one from SMokeycub. Go back and reread it until you understand it. I don't know how else to phrase it.

ajhbike
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 1614
Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 4:06 pm
Zip Code: 06405
Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub
1951 Super C
1966 IH 504 Hi-Clear
1968 JD 3020
1949 JD B
1949 Ford 8N
1955 Ferguson TO-35
Location: Branford, CT

Re: Hydraulic Valve

Postby ajhbike » Wed Oct 18, 2017 8:08 pm

Well Jim and Ray....you are right but you already knew that. Darn valve is deceptive in that it only looks as though it will push down, not up. Put the cylinder on, hooked up the hoses, fired her up and it worked!! Needs lube everywhere back there but I am elated it worked!!!. Sorry if I got you grumpy,


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