All other non-specific model Farmall / IH / CASE tractors. (Catch-All)
Moderator: Team Cub
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
9 posts • Page 1 of 1
Can't start the Super A. I took the starter off and lubricated and rebuilt the switch, now it doesn't take 50 lbs. of pressure to pull it anyway.
I also lubed the drive because it was stuck in the "out" position. The tip of the gears on both the starter and the flywheel are rounded a bit, but only about 10% of the teeth are affected.
I wire-brushed the cables to get better contact, and I can get it to turn over, but it wears down a brand new battery pretty fast, it takes a LOT to turn it over, I guess, and it's not firing at all.
The wiring on the tractor is in horrible shape, so I'll need to replace it, but does anyone have some troubleshooting tips? I need to replace the plug wires, that's for sure! I've got spark, but no joy
does the starter take more power to start than before? also does the starter feel warm to the touch when you turn it on? i had a starter with a short in it once. took it to a shop and they rebuilt it for far less than a new one. still works after 15 years
CONDENSER AND POINTS, I WOULD DO DIST CAP, ROTOR, PLUGS AND PLUG WIRES. i WOULD LET THE OIL DRAIN WHILE DOING THE ABOVE. cHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER TOO, MIGHT EVEN PUT A NEW COIL IN RIGHT AWAY TOO. MOST OF THEM YOU WILL HAVE TO DO EVENTUALLY. FOR A QUICK AND DIRTY I WOULD BURNISH THE POINTS. ABURNISHING TOOL IS A REAL FINE FILE TO CLEAN ANY CRUD OFF THE POINTS. WHILE YOU HAVE THE CAP OFF YOU MIGHT CHECK THAT THE ROTOR TURNS WHILE ATTEMPTING TO START.
THERE IS A GOOD LIST TO START WITH. YOU SAY NO SPARK SO THAT IS WHAT WE ADDRESS FIRST. IF YOU HAVE A MAG LIFT THE WIRE OFF TO THE KILL SWITCH. iF A DIST CHECK THAT THERE IS VOLTAGE AT THE DIST.
"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne
" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
It sounds to me that it is time to rebuild the starter.
If the starter bushings are worn to much or the brushes bad it will drag & use the batt.
up fast while taking all the juice from the ignition at the same time.
If it's been broken I did it.
If its not broken wait till I touch it.
I notice when I pull the ignition button out, the Ampere gauge drops to -10, even with no lights on or anything...
Is that a sure sign of a short somewhere? How do I test the starter for a short using a multimeter?
Allen, that negative 10 amp flow is current flow through the coil. If the ammeter is accurate, that seems a little excessive. Try disconnecting the wire that is connected to the coil primary negative terminal and make sure that wire doesn't touch anything. Then pull the switch on. If you still have a negative current flow, it is going somewhere besides the coil and you will have to trace it out. If the ammeter reads zero, then the current drain is all through the coil and I think I would try a new one since you have starting issues. This sounds like a coil going bad.
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
I bought a new set of plug wires, a distributor cap, rotor, points, condensor, starter switch, etc. today, and I'll pick up some new plugs tomorrow if I can find them - any suggestions on type?
I need to find a place that can test the starter, and I may have it rewound/rebuilt if I can. Not sure how to tell if it's shorted out, but of course something is amiss.
I notice gas is dripping out of the carb (actually out of the short rubber hose that attaches to the air breather.) Must be something wrong with my needle valve or seals in that, so that will be the second adventure as soon as I can get this beast to turn over. Prob'ly explains the solenoid valve on the gas line
I notice gas is dripping out of the carb (actually out of the short rubber hose that attaches to the air breather.)
I think you have just explained why the tractor won't start. Farmall tractors just seem to not want to start and run when flooded. Work this fuel flooding problem first and then see what happens. Even with a good Carb, they can't stand too much choking. Bill
9 posts • Page 1 of 1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests