FastHitch Settings

All other non-specific model Farmall / IH / CASE tractors. (Catch-All)

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FastHitch Settings

Postby Paul_NJ » Fri Jun 16, 2006 6:11 pm

I didn’t realize how many operating “adjustments” there are on the Fasthitch, at least the 1958 version that appeared on the 340 type tractors, which I assume includes the 60 series as well. This version is termed the “Tel-A-Depth with Traction Control”, which is apparently different from the version that first appeared in 1953 on the Super C. I’ve currently got the one on my 340 Utility dissasembled to clean up, free up several stuck pins, and painting. However, reading thru it’s Operator’s Manual, I see there are quite a few adjustments via which you can make the sockets “free-floating” or “rigid’, by moving the several pins in the hitch. There is an elaborate table in the Manual that describes the pin positions for various implements: for example a cultivator should be set to free-float; a plow should be rigid. There are four settings, although I’m not sure any of the pins are currently in consistent positions. All I plan to use the Fasthitch for is a rear crane, a scraper blade, and a carry-all platform. Of course none of these are on the table. I’d assume everything should be set as “ridgid”, which the table says are the settings for just using the drawbar. Can anyone tell me is that is correct?

Another reason for cleaning it up is that ever since I bought the tractor, the hitch wouldn’t hold a steady position - moving the handle would cause it to either drift all the way up, or all the way down. Any suggestions would help alot.
51 Cub; IH 340 Utility; IH 240 Utility http://public.fotki.com/PWS/
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Postby RedNed » Sat Jun 17, 2006 8:39 am

Paul
Do you have a lateral limiter on your hitch? Just asking like I know what I'm talking about :wink: . I am on the same boat as you. My 350u has Fast/traction control too. My book also has the same rigid and floating specs :shock: . I think we are just going to trial and error that stuff. I would have to say rigid first. But you didn't hear that from me if that does not work. I do not understand that the hitch does not stay in one spot?How's your check valve? You have one? What handle? The leveling crank?The reason I'm asking about the lateral limiter is my eyebolt was sheared in half @ the bail. Still have not got it out. I have a nice drill hole for a easy-out. Put the easy -out in ,lots of heat will not move :cry: . If I try to force it, you know what happens "SNAP O". So it sits with Kroil and rust eaten juice. I'll get it, If I don't beat it with a hammer. :twisted:
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1957 IH350u
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Postby Matt Kirsch » Sat Jun 17, 2006 11:00 pm

The drifting has nothing to do with the positions of any pins. It's a hydraulic problem inside the valve. There's a mechanism that is supposed to feed the position of the hitch back to the valve, so that when the hitch position matches the lever's position, it'll stop.

That's about all I know about the situation, unfortunately. Couldn't tell you exactly what is wrong or how to fix it... Guess you just gotta take it apart and have a look-see...
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Postby Paul_NJ » Sun Jun 18, 2006 7:35 am

Ned

I know the eyebolt you're talking about (I think) - on mine it holds the lateral limiter to the hitch socket on the right side. Mine was very rusty but not frozen and I was able to tap mine out after a dose of Kroil. Once it was out I could see that some time in the past the bolt had been welded back together. Also looked like they had done some grinding on the socket the eyebolt passes thru - perhaps it had been just like yours because it looks like they cut it out and then built the hole back up with weld and grinded it flush. So apparently breaking is common - must be a high stress point. Is your's sheared off flush with the socket? Do you have the whole hitch off? Sure would be hard to do much to it when it's still down there on the tractor. Easy-outs scare me: snap and then what? Good luck - I hate problems like that.

The more I think about it, rigid does sound like the best option. At least one of the pins that are supposed to be there are missing on mine. Plus the pin on the left socket is in the wrong hole. But unfortunately the retainer ball (like on the end of a socket wrench) is hoplessly frozen in place so I can't get it out. It's soaking in Kroil also. I suppose I can grind it off.

Matt/Ned

I'm sure you're right - there's most likely a problem with a valve that causes the hitch position to drift. Hydraulically, I don't yet understand how this thing works. The valve the control handle (quadrant) actuates thru a long linkage that pivots under the seat is in a 3 valve manifold up under the steering wheel (along with two valves for external hydraulic connections). Hoses from there pass back to a check valve block right above the hitch itself. Can you tell me the function of that check valve? Could it be the problem? How does one check a check valve? No pun intended. I have it off to clean up anyway - what do you look for?. The front 3 valve manifold - that's another story - don't think that's coming off and I don't see any way in. Any further suggestions? This is not good news to me - I put a rebuild kit into Touch Control on my Cub and it still makes a groaning sound every time I stroke the cylinder - hydraulics and I apparently don't get along very well.
51 Cub; IH 340 Utility; IH 240 Utility http://public.fotki.com/PWS/
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Postby RedNed » Sun Jun 18, 2006 10:26 pm

Pauly
The check valve, Double acting . Normaly stops that the hitch from drifting.Take it out and check the spring and seats. The three touch control valves I had had broken springs in them. Two out of three.The main thing with hydralics is keep everything clean.My filter was bad and everything had to be cleaned out. I did a good job but had some leaks here and there do to old age and poor eyesight. I have to wear my glasses now. wrong size o-rings.
Yes my whole hitch was off and I'm putting it back together now. I can't say enough about the Blue ribbon manuals GSS-1278 and GSS -1279 and you have to get GSS-1280 Hydralics troubleshooting manual. Good stuff.
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Postby Paul_NJ » Mon Jun 19, 2006 6:12 am

I can't say enough about the Blue ribbon manuals GSS-1278 and GSS -1279 and you have to get GSS-1280 Hydralics troubleshooting manual. Good stuff.


Ned

Great tip - thanks . . . but where do I find them?? Tried Binder Books but didn't see them - would an IH/Case dealer still have them? - any suggestions??

Paul
51 Cub; IH 340 Utility; IH 240 Utility http://public.fotki.com/PWS/
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Postby RedNed » Mon Jun 19, 2006 5:23 pm

Check E-bay from time to time.Punch in "blue ribbon manual' and somthin will come up like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/INTERNATIONAL-Blue- ... dZViewItem
Just try to keep them under $10.
I think I have gotten them from some S.Dakota farm. Great shape .They have that old Barn fresh smell. :wink:
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Postby Paul_NJ » Thu Jun 22, 2006 8:23 pm

The check valve, Double acting . Normaly stops that the hitch from drifting.Take it out and check the spring and seats. The three touch control valves I had had broken springs in them. Two out of three.The main thing with hydralics is keep everything clean.My filter was bad and everything had to be cleaned out. I did a good job but had some leaks here and there do to old age and poor eyesight. I have to wear my glasses now. wrong size o-rings.
Yes my whole hitch was off and I'm putting it back together now. I can't say enough about the Blue ribbon manuals GSS-1278 and GSS -1279 and you have to get GSS-1280 Hydralics troubleshooting manual. Good stuff.


Ned

I took my check valve apart as you suggested, and discovered it was a single acting type - the parts book shows both single and double were made. Spring was good and the seat looked OK. Suppose that's all I can do there. Was hoping the spring was broken and responsible for the hitch drift. Bought all new O-rings from IH for it.

I was able to acquire the GSS-1280 you recommended from e-bay (my first e-bay purchase . . . ) for $10. Things got ugly on my bid for GSS-1279 - some guy beat me out of it for $20: HA, good for him! Glad I stopped. Next day I called my IH dealer and he miraculously had a GSS-1279 - sold it to me for $8. Can you beat that story? Once both manuals arrive I'll study up on drifting. Would you recommend I go into the 3rd touch control valve that controls the Fasthitch?

I did find I was missing 3 out of the 5 pins that make the hitch rigid, and the 4th was stuck in the float hole, explaining at least why it was "floating" in all directions.
51 Cub; IH 340 Utility; IH 240 Utility http://public.fotki.com/PWS/
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Postby RedNed » Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:28 pm

Paul
That's great about the manuals. See you really have to look around. I'm glad the dealer had it. Just watch for E-bay auctions. You can really get caught up in it. Know you product and bid wisely. Somethings are still available from Case/ih.
Here's a pic of my setup

Image

Touch control set up fast hitch valve inback two foward ones are for my loader. Hard lines to manifold block was standard. It's funny this tractor was stock and original. Triple valves, fast hitch ,Ipto,TA,(TA is awesome) But no power steering? what's up with that. If I had all this and was to order it from IH.I would have made sure I had power steering. A lot of research and reading. I knew the 300u and 350u had steering problems. This one had some issues. I completely tore it down rebuilt it and it's like brand new inside. Not bad for a 50 year old tractor that had this loader on it . I do not know if the factory install this loader on it. The dealer must of had.
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Postby Paul_NJ » Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:33 am

Ned

The photo of the rear of your 350U is terrific. You're doing a beautiful job. I've also found there's no way to have it look so good without taking it apart and doing each component individually.

Question: I'm still trying to resolve why my Fasthitch won't stay in one intermediate position and I might as well do it now while everything is apart anyway. Hitch either goes to the top, or bottom any time you move the handle. Opened the check valve - spring was OK . . . will replace Orings in there, but likely that may not be the entire answer. Thinking about going into control valve. I recall you found broken springs in yours. What how did your hitch work before that - did you have a similar problem as mine? Did you find rebuild kits for your's? IH available? Any problems or things to watch for?
51 Cub; IH 340 Utility; IH 240 Utility http://public.fotki.com/PWS/
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Postby RedNed » Thu Jun 29, 2006 7:11 pm

Paul
Thank you. I did the cub the same way. Like Johnny Cash song "One Piece at a time".On my lunch 1/2 hour. Running boards are powdered coated. My hitch worked ok .Not great,but effectively.My filter under the seat was colapsed. Still worked ok. My touch control valves two of them with broke valve springs.They are available from my case IH dealer in Bermuda I mean Wisconsin. Gaskets too. O-rings I just matched. The valve works great and and resets to detent at the end of the stroke. I had to make a installation tool to put the garter spring back on . You can't put it back together without it. There was a stop block in two of the valves? One of them did not have it. I was like whats up with that!. After reading manual. It stated that they removed them on later models. Pays to read and keep you manuals updated. Even though it was built in 57 and the manuals revision date was 60. :lol: So I took them out.Some scoring of the piston but overall not bad. Paul, do you have a safty valve on that model?If so make sure the screen is ok. Not pluged or dirty.Both broken springs were on the loader valves not the fast hitch valve.Now ,I push the lever it hits the the end of the stroke, either up or down and the lever cames back automatically. There is also a latch on the fasthitch lever to secure it if you accidently hit it. You have gone this far. I'm sure you'll find it. If not I'm here for ya. Sounds like fun. You'll get it.
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