Wed Jun 30, 2010 7:00 am
I don't know what the heck I am doing
I have two IH running gears I am working on. I feel like a porcupine I used up three wire wheels on the body grinder and have wires sticking out of me everywhere. All I want to do is protect the metal from rusting any more and have it look good. I kept having to take more and more apart so I could clean it up or there is no other way to get in and paint without taking off another part. I took it apart far enough to get most of it but I would need a aircraft hanger to do it right. I don't know if the rustolum rusty metal primer will work with IH 2150 enamel paint. I don't remember what all the knobs on this cheep spray can does or what pressure to run it at all it says no more than 10 psi in the can but there's no pressure gauge And I had to turn the pressure on the gun up to 100 psi to get it to spray. It says the primer need 24 hrs to dry before another coat but its going to get 12 and I am going to spray the color. Its getting loaded on the trailer tomorrow to go to the farm and I want the top coat to have some time to dry before I strap it down.
It was actually fun when I finally got to start spraying the primer. Trying to figure out what parts to spray first so everything got coated. And not be dragging the air line over over something that was just painted. It looks pretty good for now only two runs. But it was really thick primer. I am sure it will be a different story when I put the paint on.
This is what the wagon looked like when I got it. Other than the front tire was blown out and the spindles froze up. So I threw a old ford aluminum rim on it that fit.
Got the deck pulled off
The other running gear with a log rack. I wanted to paint them both at the same time. So I don't have to clean the paint gun two more times than I have to.
Wed Jun 30, 2010 7:17 am
Last year, I used Rustoleum primer to spot prime some parts before using the IH 2150 red. Almost a year later, I haven't noticed any difference between those spots and where I used the IH primer. I think you'll be okay. That IH 2150 is good paint, as long as it has good primer to stick to (and the primer was applied to clean, bare metal), you shouldn't have any trouble.
Hang in there!!
Wed Jun 30, 2010 7:31 am
Thats good to know
I was worried about it. I got all the loose scale and light rust off but it was pretty well pitted. I got off what I could with a chipping hammer wire wheel and DA sander. Which is why I went with the rustoleum. Its been so hot and humid here I haven't felt like moving much less working on anything. So naturally now I am in a hurry. I was planing on going to the farm today. But had to put it off until tomorrow. Like my Grandpa used to say "you didn't know what you were getting into did you"
Wed Jun 30, 2010 8:00 am
It looks like you made some great progress! I hate the prep work, but as my Grandpa use to say it is the most important part! It should look pretty sharp with some 2150 Red
on it... and a few IH
decals as well..
Hang in there and thanks for sharing,
Wed Jun 30, 2010 8:13 am
Have fun. It will not stop the porcupine problem fully, but if you get knotted or twisted heels for your grinder it will not shed as bad. When wire wheeling I normally wear leather gloves and a leather welding apron. Got tired of having clothes pinned to me.
Wed Jun 30, 2010 9:06 am
Just a word of caution on priming and top coating; Most primers are "lacquer based" - especially the thick "red oxide" ones. This means that the "vehicle" (liquid) to carry the "solids" (the real paint particles) - is made of lacquer.
Now we all know that "lacquer thinner" is a great solvent (it is what we use to clean the spray guns).
The reason why they say to wait so long for the primer to dry before applying the "top coat" is to allow all that lacquer thinner (vehicle) to escape out of the primer. Even though the primer feels dry to the touch, there is still thinner that is trapped below the seemingly dry surface. If you top coat it too quickly, then the "trapped" lacquer thinner will attack the enamel top coat and cause it to "spider" or "craze".
That being said, you are probably still OK, since it was outdoors, in the Sun, on a hot day and the lacquer thinner vehicle in the primer probably had time to get out of the primer before you put the top coat on.
And yes, I LOVE that IH 2150 Red Paint. It is thick and run resistant the way that good paint used to be. (and relatively inexpensive).
Wed Jun 30, 2010 9:37 pm
I don't know the first thing about paint chemistry but I have been using rustolum rusty metal primer under the IH 2150 paint for over 6 years without any problems.
My supper A is completely primed in rustolum rusty metal primer and painted with IH 2150 and it looks great and yes I do let it dry over night and it should get close to 24 hour drying.
I don't talk much about my painting method because some guys on the forum frown upon using that primer and being paint dumb I can't defend my opinion
I think it will work out just fine for you, good luck.
Thu Jul 01, 2010 2:11 am
Which is why I will probably never have a "restored" Cub. I would get in a hurry, and i hate prep work, so i would not do a good job, so why bother.
It is for guys like me they make Krylon Rattlecans LOL
Thu Jul 01, 2010 6:17 am
Washing to remove remaining dust and loosened debris is important. Pressure washing the gear followed by quick drying is perhaps best. Then prime.
Painting a tractor with aerosol cans is easy. Line up the cans on the hood of the tractor and shoot them with a 22. Fun too!
Thu Jul 01, 2010 6:48 am
I've used Rustoleum rusty metal primer on several occasions, with good results. I've top coated it with several different paints, including 2150, and never had an issue with it. I prefer it over automotive primers on the cast iron portions of tractors, (areas that do not require sandable primer). Sometimes you just can't prep certain areas as well as you would like to, so the rusty metal primer will help keep the rust in check a little longer.
Thu Jul 01, 2010 7:32 am
Thank ya all for your advice and help. I let primer cure for 18 hrs. I was surprised that I only had one run where I was trying to get up into one corner where a bunch of stuff came together. I will try to get a picture after I get the parts back together.
Thu Jul 01, 2010 12:52 pm
Thu Jul 01, 2010 2:52 pm
It looks like your all set to Trailer a Trailer!
Good luck, be safe,
Thu Jul 01, 2010 10:37 pm
You are probably well up 75 by now and it's already painted, so I can't offer much help.... for rattle can primer I really like duplicolor (but no rusty metal primer) and I think they say rusty stuff needs 'some' rust to work well?? I don't recall what they say for top coat, but I have shot paint (can't use a .22 in the big city) over it in pretty short order (mostly on bolts that needed quickly) and not had a problem (except some paint always comes off bolts when you tighten em).
The Ironguard paint seem to set up pretty quickly, so you probably are just fine.
Knotted wheels are the way to go... last longer too...
Watch out for the 'fudgies' on the highway.
Tue Oct 19, 2010 6:00 am
The IH running gear had to wait for a few other projects to get done. But I am moving on it again. Me and my brother cut down a big spruce and sawed it up for all the lumber for the new deck. Then my friend Scott said tamarack would be a lot stronger. So I went out found some of that cut it down and sawed it up for the beams and am just used the spruce for the deck. I painted all the lumber first so would be painted all the way around.
I made the deck 7'x15' with ten cross members for it. All bolted together. My brother Timmy is going to make me stake pockets for the sides front and back when I give him dimensions of what I want. I only went 7' wide as I am going to be using it in the woods and not for hay. And the stake pockets are going to add at least 2" per side.
It has pretty good lift for something made in the 50's. My friends dad said I should shorten it up and make it lift higher but I have it mostly together now and am leaving it that way.
My friend Scott gave me some rubber roofing materiel to put between the deck and cross beams and said it really helps to keep the beams from rotting out. He said to use it between the cross beams and main beams but I painted it and used lumber adhesive between them and that should keep the water out.
What I have found though, is that if you use even engine oil like 30 wt but apply a coat every year or two then the timbers will last much much longer. Mostly cause the water does not penetrate at all and simply beads. With paint - the smallest crack will allow moisture in and then it will collect and bubble up under undisturbed paint and rot the underlying wood. I have some PT spruce that I used for my little log wagon almost 10 years ago. I redo it with 30wt every couple of years. No rot whatsoever. We have another wood trailer made from tamarack that Dad has had for about 25 years or so. He coated it with Irving's finest 5w30 and it is still in pristine shape
I am not a fan of paint on wood, never have been...
I almost did it you way. I gave it a test lift after I got the main beams on and broke a hose and it sprayed the main beams. I was going to coat the rest with oil and just paint the top but Dad wanted me to paint it all white so I did. But now that its done painted I think it would have looked better with the beams just coated with oil. And I was worried about coating the deck as I was worried about it getting slippery and I plan on using it to give wagon rides in.
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group.
phpBB Mobile / SEO by Artodia.