My 1945 Farmall H Makeover

[Stanton]

More small (mostly-inside-where-it's-warm) repair.

** Let me acknowledge this forum with teaching me how to do this stuff. ** Before joining and learning from the How-To section and members' answers to questions, I never would have attempted any of this. So, thanks to all who contribute!

One of the four hood hooks was missing; bracket was completely gone, just two holes where the spot welder joined it in 1945. So, made a new hook and bracket. Found a comparable spring at Feldman's (farm and home store--great hardware dept.) Had some 1/4" cold rolled steel rod to start with...





Cut out and welded bracket to inside of hood:



Next was the steering wheel. Had a devil of time getting the old wheel off. The PO had used electrical tape in an attempt to secure the rubberized grips from completely falling off. It took a lot of work to just remove the jam nut and I even stripped out a 3-jaw puller trying to get the wheel free. No can do. Hated to do it, but finally used a grinder with cutoff wheel to cut along the key way and split the steering wheel hub. It finally "popped" off, but the threads and end of the steering rod shaft were slightly mushroomed. Bought a 3/4"-16 die and re-threaded the rod and bought a new jam nut.

Went to an auction a couple years ago and bought 3 or 4 Farmall steering wheels; two were Cub size, two were bigger. Almost threw the larger ones away on several occasions, but now I'm glad I didn't.





Took the best looking one of the two and did some repair work (see How To here: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=37140). It only had one place that was really bad, so used the 2nd wheel to cut off a replacement piece(s):









Using a Dremel with cutoff wheel, I removed the pieces by cutting along the inside and outside edges, then across the handle. Then use screw drivers to pop them off. Here they are dry fitted:



I've found that two applications of JB Weld is necessary. Apply one coat, let set overnight, sand down. Apply second coat, repeat. Apply liberally to all the joints and cracks. It's easy to sand off when it dries. Here's the wheel dropped onto the rethreaded rod and new jam nut:



And the final product prior to paint:



The throttle plate was worn out, so needed to improve it (see How To here: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=16546, and here: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=28536). Fortunately, I had some scrap steel the same thickness. Cut a piece and bent it to match:



Old cut away, new welded in and all ground down smooth. Ready to measure and transfer the tooth notches from old to new:



Teeth marked and ready to cut:



Using my Dremel again (if you don't have one, you need one!) to carefully cut to the outside of the lines:





Also had to add some weld to the handle's tooth and reshape that. Now, complete and ready for paint and reassembly. Should last another 68 years.

[Gary Dotson]

Nice work on the throttle quadrant and hood latch. I really like your approach to the steering wheel repair, using a donor wheel is a great idea.

[Harold R]

Excellent repairs. This H will be a dandy when you're done.

[Don McCombs]

Can I say "I told you so", again.

I'm figuring new paint this Spring.

[Bob McCarty]

Stanton, More innovative repairs out of your shop. Well done.

Bob

[randallc]

Yes, yes, and yes. Awesome. You make it look and sound so easy. Keep up the good work, can't wait till the next steps.

[Dennis]

What a craftsman! Great work, as usual, Stanton.

[Stanton]

Had some time off over the Christmas holiday, so found some time to keep moving forward.

The air intake assembly was needing some attention. The underside screen of the mushroom top was bent up and the PO had used a lot of solder to cover up some weak spots. Also, there was a place where the hood had rubbed through:







Spliced in a piece of sheet metal and welded it in place. It's better, but still needs some attention. Used a bent nail inserted from the inside of the mushroom top to pull the screen back out.

Before:





...and after:







Temps were up in the mid-50's on Saturday (the 28th) before an Artic cold front cooled things back down Sunday. Was able to get the wire wheel out and start on the front end. Before and after shot:





What do you all think on this gas tank. It has two dents; one slight (on left) and one a little deeper:



Slight dent:



Deeper dent:



I had thought about filling the gas tank up with water, then welding a series of small nuts to the outside dented area. Then, using a threaded rod inserted in the nut, I could use the rod with something to simulate a slide hammer to pull the dent out. I didn't want to use a traditional slide hammer and pierce the gas tank only to have holes to patch (unless you all think that's the best route to take). I've also seen someone weld studs on the outside and use a slide hammer. What's your opinion?

[Don McCombs]

If you could beg, borrow or steal a stud welder, it would make the job much easier. Otherwise, check with a local body shop to see if they would do just the studs for you.

[Eugene]

local body shop to see if they would do it.

My first thought also.

Steel epoxy and used like Bondo. Local hard ware store carries a decent selection of epoxys. I have used one named "Marine Epoxy" to patch pickup floor boards. Comes in 2 each containers, each container holds about 1/2 cup of material to be mixed. Thinking the cost was around $23-.

[Stanton]

Worked on the seat. As with the rest of the tractor, it was pretty rusty.



Got the pan seat off the frame and wire wheeled it down. Had to weld a couple spots where the seat meets the support bracket; it had cracked the pan seat. The original canvas seat cover was still in the rim (as a lot of them are) which, when left out in the rain, as this one was, absorbs/retains water and causes rust.





You can see where the water/rust did its damage. The rim had several rust through spots that needed welding up.



Here, welded up and ground down. Ready for a seat cover. Saw some silver/gray duck canvas at the fabric store, so might try that this time.



Also made a new trip rope clip:




OH! Almost forgot!! Had ordered some replacement parts and they arrived yesterday.


What do you think of my new, shiny gear shifter?

[Bill Hudson]

Stanton,

Looks like you are doing a great job! However, you may have a challenge with your gearshift. Might be a tad long by the time you get it straightened out.

Bill

[Stanton]

Stanton,

However, you may have a challenge with your gearshift. Might be a tad long by the time you get it straightened out.

Bill

Oh, I was just gonna leave it curly!!

I put that knob on there and thought it looked like something out of Dr. Seuss!!

[Scrivet]

That gear shift will keep anyone from "slamming" it in gear. It'd be like shifting jello.

[Stanton]

It was a beautiful afternoon last Sunday in the mid-60's; a far cry from the previous Sunday. A week ago I was pushing snow with temps around 2 degrees F with the wind howling!

Wanted to post these pics just to conclude the steering wheel redo. The first one was taken over Christmas holiday; primed and black applied to handle portion:



Taped off the black handle last Sunday and shot some red:



Will probably catch a warm day soon and degrease/clean the engine and radiator. Both are pretty dirty. Need to make a PTO shield. Also need to drain the tranny and replace the seals around the upper/lower tranny shaft and belly pump.