New-To-Me "H"

Farmall H, HV & Super H, 300 & 350, 1939-1958
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AgTires4295
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 197
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:36 pm
Zip Code: 20646
Tractors Owned: 1940 Farmall A
1947 Farmall H
1951 Farmall Cub
1970 Cub Cadet 127
1970 Simplicity Broadmoor 728 (x2)
1984 Cub Cadet 782
1964 Simplicity Landlord
2014 Simplicity Broadmoor 23/50
Location: La Plata, MD

Re: New-To-Me "H"

Postby AgTires4295 » Sat Aug 20, 2016 12:09 pm

Well dang. You're absolutely right! They're mismatched rims. Glad I went all the way in though. Inner bearings are dry as a bone!
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1940 Farmall A
1947 Farmall H
1951 Farmall Cub

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AgTires4295
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 197
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:36 pm
Zip Code: 20646
Tractors Owned: 1940 Farmall A
1947 Farmall H
1951 Farmall Cub
1970 Cub Cadet 127
1970 Simplicity Broadmoor 728 (x2)
1984 Cub Cadet 782
1964 Simplicity Landlord
2014 Simplicity Broadmoor 23/50
Location: La Plata, MD

Re: New-To-Me "H"

Postby AgTires4295 » Sat Aug 20, 2016 6:44 pm

I'm pretty frustrated with the H right now. I've taken the carb apart, adjusted the float, put everything back, adjusted the screws and can't figure this thing out. Now it runs out of gas on WOT and sputters out. It's infuriating. I was better off before I took anything apart today.
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1940 Farmall A
1947 Farmall H
1951 Farmall Cub

Matt Kirsch
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Re: New-To-Me "H"

Postby Matt Kirsch » Wed Aug 24, 2016 1:39 pm

Well, it's very rare for a carburetor rookie to get it right the first time. Sometimes you have to tear the carburetor down a few times to get it right. It does sound like a fuel flow issue, so the same tests will work for the H as you'd use on a Cub.

When you have the carburetor apart, check the float level and make sure the float isn't hanging up on the side of the fuel bowl. Sometimes it can be hard to tell if the float is hanging up, but when you've exhausted all other options, it HAS to be the float hanging up in the bowl.

On the front end, wobble is very common, and it is a combination of a little bit of wear in multiple spots causing a big wobble. The sector gear can work loose on the top of the steering post shaft. The worm and sector gears in the top of the front bolster have a little wear. The top and bottom bushings in the steering post have a little wear.

New gears are big big money, around $500 for both IIRC, but the bushings are only about $150. I've replaced only the top bushing in the past and it made quite a difference.

One trick to the wobble is to run one fromt tire somewhat soft. This will cause the front end to pull to one side and keep it from wobbling.

BTW, make sure you've really got two different front rims. The rim can be flipped over for different widths, and/or mounted on the inside or the outside of the hub. The lugs on the rims are offset to one side.

User avatar
AgTires4295
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 197
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:36 pm
Zip Code: 20646
Tractors Owned: 1940 Farmall A
1947 Farmall H
1951 Farmall Cub
1970 Cub Cadet 127
1970 Simplicity Broadmoor 728 (x2)
1984 Cub Cadet 782
1964 Simplicity Landlord
2014 Simplicity Broadmoor 23/50
Location: La Plata, MD

Re: New-To-Me "H"

Postby AgTires4295 » Tue Aug 30, 2016 10:04 am

Matt Kirsch wrote:Well, it's very rare for a carburetor rookie to get it right the first time. Sometimes you have to tear the carburetor down a few times to get it right. It does sound like a fuel flow issue, so the same tests will work for the H as you'd use on a Cub.

When you have the carburetor apart, check the float level and make sure the float isn't hanging up on the side of the fuel bowl. Sometimes it can be hard to tell if the float is hanging up, but when you've exhausted all other options, it HAS to be the float hanging up in the bowl.

On the front end, wobble is very common, and it is a combination of a little bit of wear in multiple spots causing a big wobble. The sector gear can work loose on the top of the steering post shaft. The worm and sector gears in the top of the front bolster have a little wear. The top and bottom bushings in the steering post have a little wear.

New gears are big big money, around $500 for both IIRC, but the bushings are only about $150. I've replaced only the top bushing in the past and it made quite a difference.

One trick to the wobble is to run one fromt tire somewhat soft. This will cause the front end to pull to one side and keep it from wobbling.

BTW, make sure you've really got two different front rims. The rim can be flipped over for different widths, and/or mounted on the inside or the outside of the hub. The lugs on the rims are offset to one side.



Yeah I'm a carb rookie for sure! So much of a rook in fact that I actually bought a new gasket (boogered the present one with a flathead screwdriver :oops: ) and when I went to replace it, broke part of the internal structure near the jet... Don't ask me how I did it :roll: I felt like such an idiot. Seeing no way of fixing what was just broken, I threw in the towel and convinced the wife to let me buy a new carb from Steiner. $302 later, I'm hoping when I bolt it up, everything works flawlessly.

In reference to my steering, it is loose and moves about a quarter turn before grabbing. I figure this isn't so much of a big deal (yet) as I'm not puckering when wide open on the road :lol: but I'll be inspecting it further to make sure it isn't all falling apart and/or missing bushings.

I'll definitely keep your tire inflation tip in mind after the adjustments have been made. The rims I have seen are definitely different. I'm thinking once I flip one of the wheels on the rim, it won't be as noticeable as the lugs are offset like mentioned.

Thanks for the responses on this thread! Hoping to get a lot of use out of this H. My three year old son refers to it as "Tractor Mac" (we read all of the Tractor Mac books at bedtime) and is obsessed with it. This of course pleases me a great deal :tractor:
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1940 Farmall A
1947 Farmall H
1951 Farmall Cub

User avatar
AgTires4295
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 197
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:36 pm
Zip Code: 20646
Tractors Owned: 1940 Farmall A
1947 Farmall H
1951 Farmall Cub
1970 Cub Cadet 127
1970 Simplicity Broadmoor 728 (x2)
1984 Cub Cadet 782
1964 Simplicity Landlord
2014 Simplicity Broadmoor 23/50
Location: La Plata, MD

Re: New-To-Me "H"

Postby AgTires4295 » Mon Nov 28, 2016 1:05 pm

Just an update on the thread. After much frustration with little obstacles here and there, I had managed to get this H to run extremely well. In using the tractor with everything from pulls to hayrides and everything in between, I've been putting some serious mileage/time on it. Nearly everyday, since September, my kids have begged for hayrides, tractor rides and seeing (now) Santa Claus drive "Tractor Mac" down the road.

Dressing up as Santa Claus and driving the H around town, waving has been an incredible experience since the whole world lights up. It's an unbelievable shock to go to such a joyous end of the spectrum since I'm normally at the other end being ridiculed/verbally assaulted/physically assaulted/belittled for the other outfit I wear everyday.

These tractors are so much more than just farm equipment. They are everything encompassing a way of life that should be preserved and passed down through the years. They're not just tractors but hobbies, family heirlooms and symbols of tradition. For me, they're more of a psychological sanctuary from the burdens of life.

Now that I've gone all cheesy on us here, I'll post some recent photos :lol:

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1940 Farmall A
1947 Farmall H
1951 Farmall Cub

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: New-To-Me "H"

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:37 pm

Also looks like the left tire is bigger than the other. Not unusual on a tractor that was used a lot for plowing. Required less effort to hold the steering wheel straight ahead.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!

rexxon
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Re: New-To-Me "H"

Postby rexxon » Wed Feb 22, 2017 5:43 am

I disked this weekend with mine, one side just like yours, keep an eye on the gear oil and use her she'll be fine.


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