Farmall B & BN Tractors, 1939-1947
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14 posts • Page 1 of 1
i got a call the other day from a fellow with a B he bought or got several years ago and started restoring. It is a perfect example of a basket case - everything has been dissassembled - transmission, finals, engine and everything in between. Most of it is cleaned up, and the tires have been replaced/ rims powdercoated, etc. Well then life got in his way - marriage/kids/house/etc. and it sat in the garage.
he wants me to complete the project and we made a deal. it will be interesting! I'd take some pictures, but it's just boxes and bags of parts. I love a challange!
Like a BIG jigsaw puzzle! Have you any experience with B's?
My 1945 Farmall H makeover
Cool Keep us updated !
Member Chapter 42 IHCC
1970 Farmall Cub
1946 Farmall B
1942 Farmall M
1200 Cub Cadet
yup, rebuilt a few 113 engines, just finished assembly of my Super AI, ready to go to paint. i'll put up a couple of photos
here is the list of seals and gaskets thus far. i did not order PTO gaskets as i have a set from another tractor.
1 48776D Steering
2 55453D front wheels
1 47279D TRANSMISSION
2 48009DA FINALS
3 47-845DA spring
1 11-154-VA fan hub gasket
1 46-869D fan belt
2 brake bands
Art, Thanks for not listing the prices alongside the parts. That might be scary to watch it add up.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
I was hoping for the grand total. Even a ballpark would be cool
i think that list is $530. i also needed a sleeve and piston kit, gasket set, clutch, pressure plate, TOB, ring gear, and crank grind. haven't seen the bill for that yet.
There were a few parts that the owner did not disassemble, mostly because they exceeded the tools available to him. Here is how i proceed with these items. Adding heat to the bearing is sometimes necessary, as is shock from a hammer. My wife jumped when the axle bearing popped as i was heating it
the bolts in the ring gear photo have a nut on the backside and the bearing retainer is rotated to clear the bolt holes. in this manner, the nuts can be threaded to force the retainer away from the housing. It is only really necessary on the ring gear side because you do not have any clearance to bring a punch to bear.
as part of this post i've been asked to offer tips or "how to's" on the more difficult tasks. so as i go along i'll continue to post. if there is something you want to know, ask away.
when you reinstall the drive shaft coupler to the transmission, do not drive it on the shaft. doing that could drive the forward bearing off and send the shaft rearward. instead, tap it on to start it, and then use a 2" long 7/16 NF bolt with the large washer to draw the coupler on. I looked in my bolt bins and could not locate any such bolt and was about to park the task till i ordered one when i thought......hey, the bolts that connect the drop housing to the axle tubes are 7/16 NF! Just keep adding washers so as not to bottom out the bolt but still have enough threads to draw the coupler in.
I hope there is some snow in Colorado, as i'm off skiing for the next 2 weeks!
This is the first time i've worked on restoring a tractor from Texas. What i see is remarkedly less rust than we see in the NorthEast. less pitting, i mean. the fenders were nice once i got the surface rust off, and the floor pan the same. i'm somewhat jealous of you guys in the drier southwest.
i needed to replace the ring gear for the starter as the existing one had the usual two chewed up sections. Removing it is a matter of driving it off the flywheel over the .010 lip. thats fairly easy with a punch and the flywheel on a hard surface. reinstalling it requires heating the entire ring until the metal starts to change color (that blue tinge) and dropping it on. i simply set it on the woodstove for a few minutes. that did the trick. you cannot drive it on without heating it. you can flip them over as well, but in this case a new one was about $20, so i replaced it.
hope this helps sopmeone.
I've been away from projects for most of February, but the "B" is coming along. The wheels are on it now, pedals connected and rolling. had to move to the Allis HD-5 engine to finish that up, but the "B" should be ready for paint soon.
14 posts • Page 1 of 1
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