Pushrods and valves

[Texas Tony]

So I had my 113 engine rebuilt by a machine shop. I get it back and the pushrods are not in it, but I put them in once I got it back to my shop and on the engine stand: I say that because the bar in my old valve train was worn in several places so I picked up one in very good shape at a salvage yard. I get the pushrods in and down into their seats and then put the valve train/rocker arm assembly on and I'm confused: there are gaps of up to 3/4" between the head of the pushrod and the cup in the rocker arms. Do I need to turn the crank until each pushrod comes up to the cup of the arm and then adjust each one? I've never had to fool with pushrods and rocker arms before. Anyone with some grandfatherly-type advice please feel free to comment. I've got a service manual and gauges to set the valves once I figure out what it going on with the rods. Also, do I have to take the timing gear off to locate timing marks on the internal gears or are all of the markings on the flywheel? Like I said, this engine has been completely rebuilt and I have had the clutch, flywheel & ring gear off, had a new pressure plate built, and put a new throwout bearing in but that wouldn't mess up the timing marks on the flywheel, would it? My dad is not a Farmall guy and there's not many around that I can go to with help on this project.

Thanks in advance for your time and input.

[Rick Spivey]

Let me start by saying that I don't know the C113 engine personally. However, if like most IC engines, there should be "lifters" between the push rods and cam shaft. They would likely have a flat face on one end, and a cupped face on the other. Flat goes to cam shaft, cupped holds push rod. They look like cylindrical pieces of steel, maybe 3/4 inch long or so? For sure, a 3/4" gap is not to be expected, I don't believe.

[Urbish]

Here's a cutaway illustration of the 113 engine.

[Urbish]

Based on what you said, it sounds like the tappets did not get installed. I'm not sure which manual you're working from, but there is a service manual and parts manual for the Farmall B located in the Farmall A section of the pdf manuals page on this site. The service manual there describes where to find the timing marks.

[Texas Tony]

Thanks for the input and words of advice. Something else while I'm waiting to upload pictures: where is the timing pin on the B? I see them located on the timing gear cover (or near the cover) on the A's, but I do not see one on my B.

It should also be noted that I have not tightened the rocker arm stands down and torqued them, so they are not sitting on the head itself, yet. I was just curious about the gap between the ball and cup in these pictures. I understand the workings of the engine, and feel like once I get the two stands down and tight, that I will be able to adjust the arms on the valve caps and all will be fine. Maybe just being overly cautious.

[Urbish]

Whatever gap you have between the stands and the head will be about double at the pushrod. Go ahead and snug the stands down and see where you are at.

[Jim Becker]

It should also be noted that I have not tightened the rocker arm stands down and torqued them, so they are not sitting on the head itself, yet.

That was kind of an important detail to leave out. Tighten the rocker shaft down and several valves will be forced open (the ones without the gap). The gap on the others will be closed up.

By the way, be sure the center support is held by the original hollow stud. Be gentle tightening it as it twists off easily.

[Texas Tony]

I tightened the stands down last night, but did not torque them because I couldn't find how many pounds they should be tightened to, but will look again this evening. I backed off all of the adjusting screws in the arms and will time it tonight and get them set. Thank you to all who've commented and even looked this over.